Overheated on track - now what?

[infernosg]

Well any doubts the engine is fried have now been eliminated. Started the car after work and even though it started right up it sounded like it was only running on one rotor. Eventually the engine caught itself and I was able to drive home. Got home, shut it down and changed, came out to start it to depressurize the fuel system and it absolutely would not start. It took me 30 minutes to start it again and the same thing happened - started on one rotor but after a few revs and about 30 seconds the second rotor kicked in. Pulled the fuel pump connection and let it stall out and started the teardown. Can't wait to see what exactly happened.

[vex]

Originally Posted by infernosg

Well any doubts the engine is fried have now been eliminated. Started the car after work and even though it started right up it sounded like it was only running on one rotor. Eventually the engine caught itself and I was able to drive home. Got home, shut it down and changed, came out to start it to depressurize the fuel system and it absolutely would not start. It took me 30 minutes to start it again and the same thing happened - started on one cylinder but after a few revs and about 30 seconds the second rotor kicked in. Pulled the fuel pump connection and let it stall out and started the teardown. Can't wait to see what exactly happened.

This doesn't make sense...

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by vex

That looks about normal for a long life engine. Maybe you should clean it more often

How does an engine coked in oil look normal?! 105k miles is also hardly what I consider a "long life engine". Hell, I've only put 5k miles on it in nearly two years of ownership. This also isn't a show car. As long as it (was) running I didn't really care how clean it was inside or out.

Originally Posted by vex

That is an easy fix. Mine did the same thing until I broke it loose. Use some penetrating oil (pb blaster and the like) on the internal chamber (you'll need to spray it into the hole) and on the shaft, let it soak in over night. Then chuck the actuator in a vice or secure it to a wood block and push the shaft to break any of the other debris. Flush with more penetrating oil. Once cleaned lobe some lithium grease onto the shaft and work it into the chamber via the shaft (don't try shoving it into the hole). That should free the actuators right up.

This would be a good idea if I intended to keep the 6 port engine. The actuators themselves are fine, the front rod is stiff (LOL) but moveable while the rear is completely seized.

Originally Posted by vex

This doesn't make sense...

You know what I meant! This is my first rotary so I'm still used to diagnosing issues in piston-engine-speak.

[vex]

Originally Posted by infernosg

How does an engine coked in oil look normal?! 105k miles is also hardly what I consider a "long life engine". Hell, I've only put 5k miles on it in nearly two years of ownership. This also isn't a show car. As long as it (was) running I didn't really care how clean it was inside or out.

Tongue, meet cheek.

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by vex

Tongue, meet cheek.

Don't you have a RX-7 to work on?

Anyhow, started pulling the engine apart today. Only got to the intermediate iron before I decided to stop so I could clean the garage to better organize parts. Only thing I found I can't explain is pictured below:



Any explanation? Aside from that everything looks good - really good, but soaked in oil...

[RETed]

That's typical.
It's actually aluminum oxide.
It's galvanic corrosion due to having two dissimilar metals (steel side irons + aluminum rotor housings) and an electrolyte (coolant) - that's basically a battery.


-Ted

[infernosg]

Originally Posted by RETed

That's typical.
It's actually aluminum oxide.
It's galvanic corrosion due to having two dissimilar metals (steel side irons + aluminum rotor housings) and an electrolyte (coolant) - that's basically a battery.


-Ted

Gah, of course! In my search to find something I've managed to forget even the most basic material science. So what exactly should I be looking for given the circumstances? I have a couple other pictures of the rear iron and rotor housing but nothing looks out of the ordinary (to me).