The Official FC Radiator Thread.

[vex]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Distilled water has a low pH. Water by nature tries to seek a balanced pH and when distilled water is put next to aluminum, it'll leach the minerals it wants from the alloy. This causes build up and soot in the radiator tubes.

If you use an "aluminum safe" antifreeze, you'll be ok as it has silicates in it on purpose to act as sacrificial mineral deposits.

That makes sense, however the additive of the royal purple is alkiline(sp) based, I can't remember if alkilines will increase or decrease the PH balance. Anyone remember?

[Whizbang]

alkaline is anything over 7 on the PH scale.

[vex]

if that's the case, wouldn't distilled water be beneficial in equalizing the chemical reaction potential of the coolant? Assuming Distilled water is close to 6.5 or at the most 6 on the pH scale, and adding coolant in a 50/50 mix will jump it up to 7.3-8pH wouldn't adding the additive only marginally increase the pH to something more alkiline?

This is rather interesting to me.

[WE3RX7]

I would have to agree that the affects of using that additive in conjuction with distilled water and an AL safe coolant will be marginal. If anything, it'll tip closer to the alkaline level of the pH scale which is ultimately better than being acidic.

You maybe better with using a 60/40 though - it'll balance better IMHO. 50/50 would be good when not using that additive. How many ounces is that bottle? I know the stock coolant system is a little over two gallons I believe, we can probably figure this out, lol...

[Whizbang]

the other thing is that "close" neutral and neutral are still pretty different as far as science is concerned. Also things dont have over night either. Unless you have a Ph of like 11 or 12. But say its 8 or 6. Well your going to find yourself chemically reacting til things settle out.

[vex]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

I would have to agree that the affects of using that additive in conjuction with distilled water and an AL safe coolant will be marginal. If anything, it'll tip closer to the alkaline level of the pH scale which is ultimately better than being acidic.

You maybe better with using a 60/40 though - it'll balance better IMHO. 50/50 would be good when not using that additive. How many ounces is that bottle? I know the stock coolant system is a little over two gallons I believe, we can probably figure this out, lol...

I think it's 16oz

Originally Posted by Low Impedance

the other thing is that "close" neutral and neutral are still pretty different as far as science is concerned. Also things dont have over night either. Unless you have a Ph of like 11 or 12. But say its 8 or 6. Well your going to find yourself chemically reacting til things settle out.

8.3 is usually what happens when you mix distilled water and gylcol type anti-freeze together. I'll probably email RP with questions about it. (This is all going into the article about cooling. I just want to get my facts and stuff straight before typing it up)

[Whizbang]

well that makes sense then if its about 8.3

[WE3RX7]

Agreed. You should take measurements initially and then each day for about a week after driving. I'd be curious to see what the rate of reaction is and what it finally settles out at w/ that additive.

Somebody should do a control experiement as well w/out the additive. I don't have an engine or I would take care of this, lol...

[vex]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

Agreed. You should take measurements initially and then each day for about a week after driving. I'd be curious to see what the rate of reaction is and what it finally settles out at w/ that additive.

Somebody should do a control experiement as well w/out the additive. I don't have an engine or I would take care of this, lol...

I'd love to, but I don't have anything that can measure pH balance. I wonder how much a meter costs from a pool supply store, or even some testing strips....

I'm thinking something like this:
http://www.lesliespool.com/browse/Ho...400020/I/82053

[Whizbang]

strip testing kits are pretty inexpensive.

[firzen]

Tongue works too- if it's acidic, it's sour. If it's basic, it's bitter.

Oh wait, this stuff is poisonous right? Forgot...

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Shainiac

Yeah Ted, I wasnt really loosing any sleep over 220, but Id like to prevent it. What stock sensor are you using for fan activation? There is a switch on the S4 thermostat neck on car with certain options, but my car didnt have one so thats where I mounted my temp gauge. Is this the one you are referring to? I thought about finding a 3/8" NPT sender from a domestic car that grounds out around 195 and just weld a bung below the upper rad inlet.

I was using the stock electric fan circuit.
I threw away the POS stock electric fan, and I wired in a relay through the existing circuit.
I had my SPI water temp gauge monitoring everything.
The warning light was looking for a specific resistance through the circuit, and the relay wasn't enough - it would light the warning light anytime the fan would trigger - was rather convenient at the time.

Now I use a Spal PWM-FAN controller using the SPI water temp sensor.

Side note on the whole corrosion thing...
Distilled water is not as bad as RO water; I think the "leeching effects" are rather mild versus RO water.
Oxidized aluminum makes a very effective barrier against corrosion - this is the whole idea behind aluminum anodizing.


-Ted

[vex]

Time for a resurrection

Ted, how did you fit the radiator in your 7? No matter how I cock it I can't seem to get it to lay correctly without having it stick out the bottom below the oil cooler, or interfere with the front sway bar.

I'm honestly thinking about switching to a smaller height radiator to allow me to do a completely vertical mounting of the radiator.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by vex

Okay people, I'm going to need your help from here on out. I would like real world numbers from people. Those running stock radiators I would like you to voice your opinions concerning them. Vitally important details I would really like to see would be Ambient Air temperatures, Water temperatures at idle (nominal), water temperatures at cruise and if possible under load as well.

For those who have already swapped over to an aluminum radiator I would like similiar information.
Ambient air temperatures.

Anything from 20*-95*F

Originally Posted by vex

Coolant Temperatures at Idle.

Never exceed 187*F

Originally Posted by vex

Coolant Temperatures under load and/or cruise.

168-173* on the highway, will hit 180-185* after 4 hours of constant 4th gear dyno pulls

Originally Posted by vex

Also I would like to know how much body modification you had to do to mount the radiators, and if how much time you spent doing so.

It's a Griffen universal, singlepass, Ford/Chevy opposite side in/out which worked out better for my setup. Cost was about $180 IIRC.

I've found that ducting is the key.

Originally Posted by firzen

What about the Redline Water Wetter- does that have the same or similar label?

Odd they would mention that, although I do know the Al-13 rads tend to suffer from galvanic corrosion, not diluting your antifreeze or coolant with the stuff seems weird...

Don't use water wetter. It attacks ans liquifies the coolant seals

Originally Posted by vex

Time for a resurrection

Ted, how did you fit the radiator in your 7? No matter how I cock it I can't seem to get it to lay correctly without having it stick out the bottom below the oil cooler, or interfere with the front sway bar.

I'm honestly thinking about switching to a smaller height radiator to allow me to do a completely vertical mounting of the radiator.

Bring her to me! MWAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHA! Or wait a few weeks and we'll be passing through your neighborhood.

[moremazda]

Originally Posted by vex

Time for a resurrection

Ted, how did you fit the radiator in your 7? No matter how I cock it I can't seem to get it to lay correctly without having it stick out the bottom below the oil cooler, or interfere with the front sway bar.

I'm honestly thinking about switching to a smaller height radiator to allow me to do a completely vertical mounting of the radiator.

I don't know what size you have but here are some pictures of a 27.5x19 fitting in the stock location ---> http://shookmotorsports.com/FCProducts