The Official FC Radiator Thread.

[Shainiac]

Yeah Ted, I wasnt really loosing any sleep over 220, but Id like to prevent it. What stock sensor are you using for fan activation? There is a switch on the S4 thermostat neck on car with certain options, but my car didnt have one so thats where I mounted my temp gauge. Is this the one you are referring to? I thought about finding a 3/8" NPT sender from a domestic car that grounds out around 195 and just weld a bung below the upper rad inlet.

Vex, where are you getting the tabs welded? The rad already has a mounting tab along the top of that core. It lines up nicely with the stock rad support.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Shainiac

Yeah Ted, I wasnt really loosing any sleep over 220, but Id like to prevent it. What stock sensor are you using for fan activation? There is a switch on the S4 thermostat neck on car with certain options, but my car didnt have one so thats where I mounted my temp gauge. Is this the one you are referring to? I thought about finding a 3/8" NPT sender from a domestic car that grounds out around 195 and just weld a bung below the upper rad inlet.

I was using the stock electric fan circuit.
I threw away the POS stock electric fan, and I wired in a relay through the existing circuit.
I had my SPI water temp gauge monitoring everything.
The warning light was looking for a specific resistance through the circuit, and the relay wasn't enough - it would light the warning light anytime the fan would trigger - was rather convenient at the time.

Now I use a Spal PWM-FAN controller using the SPI water temp sensor.

Side note on the whole corrosion thing...
Distilled water is not as bad as RO water; I think the "leeching effects" are rather mild versus RO water.
Oxidized aluminum makes a very effective barrier against corrosion - this is the whole idea behind aluminum anodizing.


-Ted