The Official FC Radiator Thread.

[vex]

Time for a resurrection

Ted, how did you fit the radiator in your 7? No matter how I cock it I can't seem to get it to lay correctly without having it stick out the bottom below the oil cooler, or interfere with the front sway bar.

I'm honestly thinking about switching to a smaller height radiator to allow me to do a completely vertical mounting of the radiator.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by vex

Okay people, I'm going to need your help from here on out. I would like real world numbers from people. Those running stock radiators I would like you to voice your opinions concerning them. Vitally important details I would really like to see would be Ambient Air temperatures, Water temperatures at idle (nominal), water temperatures at cruise and if possible under load as well.

For those who have already swapped over to an aluminum radiator I would like similiar information.
Ambient air temperatures.

Anything from 20*-95*F

Originally Posted by vex

Coolant Temperatures at Idle.

Never exceed 187*F

Originally Posted by vex

Coolant Temperatures under load and/or cruise.

168-173* on the highway, will hit 180-185* after 4 hours of constant 4th gear dyno pulls

Originally Posted by vex

Also I would like to know how much body modification you had to do to mount the radiators, and if how much time you spent doing so.

It's a Griffen universal, singlepass, Ford/Chevy opposite side in/out which worked out better for my setup. Cost was about $180 IIRC.

I've found that ducting is the key.

Originally Posted by firzen

What about the Redline Water Wetter- does that have the same or similar label?

Odd they would mention that, although I do know the Al-13 rads tend to suffer from galvanic corrosion, not diluting your antifreeze or coolant with the stuff seems weird...

Don't use water wetter. It attacks ans liquifies the coolant seals

Originally Posted by vex

Time for a resurrection

Ted, how did you fit the radiator in your 7? No matter how I cock it I can't seem to get it to lay correctly without having it stick out the bottom below the oil cooler, or interfere with the front sway bar.

I'm honestly thinking about switching to a smaller height radiator to allow me to do a completely vertical mounting of the radiator.

Bring her to me! MWAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHA! Or wait a few weeks and we'll be passing through your neighborhood.

[moremazda]

Originally Posted by vex

Time for a resurrection

Ted, how did you fit the radiator in your 7? No matter how I cock it I can't seem to get it to lay correctly without having it stick out the bottom below the oil cooler, or interfere with the front sway bar.

I'm honestly thinking about switching to a smaller height radiator to allow me to do a completely vertical mounting of the radiator.

I don't know what size you have but here are some pictures of a 27.5x19 fitting in the stock location ---> http://shookmotorsports.com/FCProducts

[RETed]

For my car, I had to cut the flange off the stock radiator mounts.
I had to bang the existing sheet metal just a little here and there to get the fit to be tight - keep in mind, tight is good to keep air flowing around the radiator.

Stock battery must be relocated; the stock battery tray gets in the way.
I've heard of people using really tiny gel-cell's, but I don't like running small CCA rated batteries in my street car; these set-up's notch or modify the stock battery tray.

It's a really really tight fit.
The rad cap is the closest thing to the stock (turbo ) hood.
We drop the rad until the radiator cap barely clears - like 1/4" clearance.
Yeah, the bottom of the rad ends up slightly lower than the oil cooler, but the front sway bar / engine subframe sits about the same or slightly lower.


-Ted

[vex]

Originally Posted by RETed

For my car, I had to cut the flange off the stock radiator mounts.
I had to bang the existing sheet metal just a little here and there to get the fit to be tight - keep in mind, tight is good to keep air flowing around the radiator.

Stock battery must be relocated; the stock battery tray gets in the way.
I've heard of people using really tiny gel-cell's, but I don't like running small CCA rated batteries in my street car; these set-up's notch or modify the stock battery tray.

It's a really really tight fit.
The rad cap is the closest thing to the stock (turbo ) hood.
We drop the rad until the radiator cap barely clears - like 1/4" clearance.
Yeah, the bottom of the rad ends up slightly lower than the oil cooler, but the front sway bar / engine subframe sits about the same or slightly lower.


-Ted

Cause for the life of me I can't seem to figure out a way to squeeze it in height wise. I have plenty of room from side to side. A picture or two on how you mounted yours would go a long way I figure.