Thinking of going e-fan

RETed · 02-26-2014, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I would like to interject that it depends on the size of your rad....

Good point.
I run an AFCO 80125N.
22.5" x 18.5" x 3.0" core, 2-core, 1" core tubes, double-pass
26.0" x 20.0" x 3.0" overall
Biggest rad we could stuff in the FC without "major" mods.
Stock rad supports required to be cut.
Battery needs to be relocated or downsized.
Custom mounting required.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I like this idea... I think I just added something to my todo list this year... twin fans with dual controls through the ECU... once fan kicks on @ 185*, the other @ 195*....

If you can't run a side-by-side, you can run two separate fans...
One pusher in front of the rad, and one puller on the back-side.

-Ted

t_g_farrell · 02-26-2014, 04:13 PM

At least for FBs, the dual MR2 fans (1st gen early 80s vintage) fit really well and can be
separately controlled. I have them on my SA with dual wiring, relays and fuses. If one
blows the other keeps going and actually one is more than enough to cool the car in most
situations. I know this is the 2nd gen area but they may fit there as well.

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-26-2014, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

Good point.
I run an AFCO 80125N.
22.5" x 18.5" x 3.0" core, 2-core, 1" core tubes, double-pass
26.0" x 20.0" x 3.0" overall
Biggest rad we could stuff in the FC without "major" mods.
Stock rad supports required to be cut.
Battery needs to be relocated or downsized.
Custom mounting required.

Yeah... that's a big boy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

If you can't run a side-by-side, you can run two separate fans...
One pusher in front of the rad, and one puller on the back-side.

-Ted

I'll be able to get two in ther if I offset them... one pusher and one puller I'm not a huge fan of because the pusher is just an obstruction at speed...

Quote:

Originally Posted by t_g_farrell

At least for FBs, the dual MR2 fans (1st gen early 80s vintage) fit really well and can be
separately controlled. I have them on my SA with dual wiring, relays and fuses. If one
blows the other keeps going and actually one is more than enough to cool the car in most
situations. I know this is the 2nd gen area but they may fit there as well.

It should fit... IIRC the 2nd gen rad is bigger.... Good tip... Cheers

Pete_89T2 · 02-26-2014, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

What about taking the shroud off and cutting it in half across the rad, not down it... then building a bracket that's riveted on one side with e Dzus fastener on the other. The way you can split the shroud in half and take the top half off giving MUCH better access to the front of the waterpump and the fan?

I like that idea... I was thinking of a split shroud concept, although I didn't think the stock plastic shroud material is rigid enough to be split like that. Would need a really solid bracket & fastener design to make sure it doesn't flex and interfere with the fan at any point during vibration/shock & any engine movement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I don't believe the Rtek has the option of fueling for temp.....

It doesn't.

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-27-2014, 12:08 AM

I think a bracket like I described would hold it plenty....

driftxsequence · 07-15-2014, 12:12 PM

Where do you read your temps from?

The one time I tracked my car with my v-mount I guess it wasnt sealed well enough and after 3-4 laps the temps would get to around 200, and then slowly climb. I stopped around 210 out of fear and coasted for a lap. they would come back down and go right back up. Is this safe or too hot when on the track? Does a second oil cooler help lower this as well?

Also...what do you guys have as a fan shroud? I have a basic spal fan with a sheet of stainless steel sandwiched between the radiator and fan. When the fan is on it works great, but on the highway it'll creep up till i turn the fan on and it goes back down. I've read about relief flaps but dont know what to use.

S4 T2, Vmount, megasquirt, bnr stage 3, koyo rad, etc

***TitaniumTT*** · 07-15-2014, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

Where do you read your temps from?

MoTeC with a CAN to the AIM dash, so I read it where the ECU sees it, right behind the Tstat at the hottest point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

The one time I tracked my car with my v-mount I guess it wasnt sealed well enough and after 3-4 laps the temps would get to around 200, and then slowly climb. I stopped around 210 out of fear and coasted for a lap. they would come back down and go right back up. Is this safe or too hot when on the track?

It's fine, there's nothing wrong with that.... most modern cars run at that temp anyway

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

Does a second oil cooler help lower this as well?

Depends, what are your oil temps?

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

Also...what do you guys have as a fan shroud?

Custom built AL

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

I have a basic spal fan with a sheet of stainless steel sandwiched between the radiator and fan.

SS retains heat more than the AL will shed it... you're basically retaining the heat with that piece of SS. Also.... the fan needs to be spaced off the radiator at least an inch. This will pull more air through a larger area

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

When the fan is on it works great, but on the highway it'll creep up till i turn the fan on and it goes back down. I've read about relief flaps but dont know what to use.

Mistake number 1 is have a switch for a fan... it should be automated

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

S4 T2, Vmount, megasquirt, bnr stage 3, koyo rad, etc

I'm making a lot more HP and don't have cooling issues..... my temps on a 104* track day never saw above 185* coolant 200ish Oil. How well ducted is your VMIC setup?

driftxsequence · 07-15-2014, 01:28 PM

Oil temps followed coolant. I think I stopped once oil hit 215-220. Currently I have the oil cooler sitting in front of the radiator. I feel this is a mistake and needs to be moved, but for ease of installation this was my choice. undertray is installed, and there is a rad panel in the front. you can see the ripped foil tape from where i had it sealing the intercooler.

My fan is on a switch currently because the MS isnt clicking the relay. I can manually ground the relay and have the fan kick on, but the MS output wont ground it. it clicks on and off.

here is my v mount, and you can see the oil cooler partially blocking the radiator. How air-tight do I need it to be?

I appreciate the quick reply!

***TitaniumTT*** · 07-15-2014, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

Oil temps followed coolant. I think I stopped once oil hit 215-220. Currently I have the oil cooler sitting in front of the radiator. I feel this is a mistake and needs to be moved

It is

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

but for ease of installation this was my choice. undertray is installed, and there is a rad panel in the front. you can see the ripped foil tape from where i had it sealing the intercooler.

The oil cooler is heating the radiator and the SS panel is as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

My fan is on a switch currently because the MS isnt clicking the relay. I can manually ground the relay and have the fan kick on, but the MS output wont ground it. it clicks on and off.

Probably something in the programming or just because megasuck

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftxsequence

here is my v mount, and you can see the oil cooler partially blocking the radiator.

Very similar to mine, except bigger rad, bigger dual oil coolers, bigger intercooler.

Quote:

How air-tight do I need it to be?

Mine is air tight and probably water tight. The more air you can force throught he heat exchangers, the lower the temps will be.

driftxsequence · 07-15-2014, 03:19 PM

I appreciate it! Guess it's time to make some new brackets and get a second FC oil cooler.

02-26-2014, 04:13 PM	#17
t_g_farrell Waffles - hmmm good Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Huntersville, NC iTrader: (0) Posts: 757 Rep Power: 0	At least for FBs, the dual MR2 fans (1st gen early 80s vintage) fit really well and can be separately controlled. I have them on my SA with dual wiring, relays and fuses. If one blows the other keeps going and actually one is more than enough to cool the car in most situations. I know this is the 2nd gen area but they may fit there as well. __________________ 1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00

02-27-2014, 12:08 AM	#20
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I think a bracket like I described would hold it plenty.... __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

07-15-2014, 12:12 PM	#21
driftxsequence The Newbie Join Date: Aug 2013 iTrader: (0) Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0	Where do you read your temps from? The one time I tracked my car with my v-mount I guess it wasnt sealed well enough and after 3-4 laps the temps would get to around 200, and then slowly climb. I stopped around 210 out of fear and coasted for a lap. they would come back down and go right back up. Is this safe or too hot when on the track? Does a second oil cooler help lower this as well? Also...what do you guys have as a fan shroud? I have a basic spal fan with a sheet of stainless steel sandwiched between the radiator and fan. When the fan is on it works great, but on the highway it'll creep up till i turn the fan on and it goes back down. I've read about relief flaps but dont know what to use. S4 T2, Vmount, megasquirt, bnr stage 3, koyo rad, etc

07-15-2014, 01:28 PM	#23
driftxsequence The Newbie Join Date: Aug 2013 iTrader: (0) Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0	Oil temps followed coolant. I think I stopped once oil hit 215-220. Currently I have the oil cooler sitting in front of the radiator. I feel this is a mistake and needs to be moved, but for ease of installation this was my choice. undertray is installed, and there is a rad panel in the front. you can see the ripped foil tape from where i had it sealing the intercooler. My fan is on a switch currently because the MS isnt clicking the relay. I can manually ground the relay and have the fan kick on, but the MS output wont ground it. it clicks on and off. here is my v mount, and you can see the oil cooler partially blocking the radiator. How air-tight do I need it to be? I appreciate the quick reply!

07-15-2014, 03:19 PM	#25
driftxsequence The Newbie Join Date: Aug 2013 iTrader: (0) Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0	I appreciate it! Guess it's time to make some new brackets and get a second FC oil cooler.