Transmission

Painter · 09-21-2009, 08:30 AM

Can someone provide info on switching my current automatic trans to a manual ? 1995-7

Mark

IR Performance · 09-21-2009, 03:37 PM

Its pretty straight forward but takes some work. You basically need the trans, clutch, flywheel, starter, clutch slave and master with all lines and brackets, pedal assembly, shifter, ecu. If the gear indicator and lower redline in the automatic instrument cluster bother you, they can be changed as well. The computer doesn't care if the sensors on the trans are wired up but it should be done for safety.

dudemaaan · 09-21-2009, 07:25 PM

The rear end gear is 3.9 instead of 4.1 so thats another choice to make also. Is the ppf and driveshaft different? Someone said the part numbers are different

Signal 2 · 09-21-2009, 08:02 PM

Will he need to change the engine harness?

Painter · 09-23-2009, 10:40 AM

Thanks, for the info. My problem is I live in Denver and because of the automatic it barely gets off the line I'm almost thru the intersection before
the I get boost ? Help

dudemaaan · 09-23-2009, 11:40 AM

I've never driven an automatic rx7 but that doesn't sound right. I imagine with properly running twins it should build boost sooner.

Painter · 09-24-2009, 07:57 AM

Any ideas on what to look for, I'm gettiing 12lbs of boost when it spools up around 250 rpms, as far as i can tell the second turbo may have issues, also
i beleive my idel is low around 600rpms.

Thanks,
Mark

lt1_fd3s · 09-24-2009, 09:51 AM

To help answer the initial question of trans swap: I've done three of them, once for myself and then for 2 friends.

You do not have to swap out the ECU nor do you need to swap out the emissions harness that runs from the ECU all over the engine. You will have a handful of plugs from the transmission you will have to zip tie up out of the way.

also, there is a little box near the ECU (I believe it is a little black electronics box) that can be removed. My car would backfire upon shut off until I removed it. I've not done the swap in a few years so I can't remember exactly what the box is called.

as for the driveshafts: the flanges that bolt the driveshafts to the diffs are different. the auto has a larger bolt pattern than the manual. also, the length of the driveshafts are different. I believe the manual shaft is about 1'' to 2'' shorter due to differences in the diffs themselves. I've been told you can take your diff apart and swap out the "input shaft" on the diff to deal with the length and the bolt pattern. I personally purchased a manual shaft and then swapped out the u-joint and flange on my auto shaft to the manual flange. my brother was able to pull off this feat, but a drive shaft shop may be able to do it for you.

good luck.

dudemaaan · 09-24-2009, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Painter

Any ideas on what to look for, I'm gettiing 12lbs of boost when it spools up around 250 rpms, as far as i can tell the second turbo may have issues, also
i beleive my idel is low around 600rpms.

Thanks,
Mark

You mean 12 lbs by 2500? That sounds pretty fast to me. Have you tried manually shifting it? Start in 1, and I think the automatic has some kind of button to make sure it stays in the gear you put it. If the turbo transition points are the same as a manual then you should see 10 psi pretty fast then a dip to 8psi around 4300 and then 10 psi again from 4500 all the way to redline.

Painter · 09-24-2009, 04:10 PM

I've just driven it, what I'm trying to say is it just begins to spool up at 2500
with full boost @ 3500 to 4000. From 0 to 2500 its slow. The second turbo
dosen't seem to be right it dose not come back to 10 I'm not getting that second kick, Someone told me that some line comes loose from this turbo
offten, has anyone heard this, and is getting under the car the way to check for this ?

dudemaaan · 09-25-2009, 01:24 AM

Yeah sounds like something up with the sequential system. Boost should come on sooner and hold steady after the small dip. There are lots of vacuum lines, check valves, and solenoids that can fail. The only way is to just go through everything. Doing a silicone vacuum hose job would be a good idea while you're looking through the rats nest.

Painter · 09-25-2009, 07:38 AM

I know its almost impossible to diagnose problems this way, when I park it for the winter I'll do the vacumn hose thing, any info on the best hose to get?

Thanks to everyone who offered comments,
Mark

09-21-2009, 08:30 AM	#1
Painter The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 6 Rep Power: 0	Transmission Can someone provide info on switching my current automatic trans to a manual ? 1995-7 Mark

09-21-2009, 03:37 PM	#2
IR Performance Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Metuchen, NJ Posts: 249 Rep Power: 18	Its pretty straight forward but takes some work. You basically need the trans, clutch, flywheel, starter, clutch slave and master with all lines and brackets, pedal assembly, shifter, ecu. If the gear indicator and lower redline in the automatic instrument cluster bother you, they can be changed as well. The computer doesn't care if the sensors on the trans are wired up but it should be done for safety. __________________ Providing rotary engine rebuilds, porting, turbo installs, parts installations, full maintenance, etc. We work on all cars. www.irperformance.com www.myspace.com/rotaryexperimentseven irperformance@live.com 732-662-1794

09-21-2009, 07:25 PM	#3
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX Posts: 335 Rep Power: 18	The rear end gear is 3.9 instead of 4.1 so thats another choice to make also. Is the ppf and driveshaft different? Someone said the part numbers are different __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-21-2009, 08:02 PM	#4
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West Posts: 199 Rep Power: 18	Will he need to change the engine harness? __________________ Jim VR R1 FD

09-23-2009, 10:40 AM	#5
Painter The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 6 Rep Power: 0	Transmission/ Turbo lag Thanks, for the info. My problem is I live in Denver and because of the automatic it barely gets off the line I'm almost thru the intersection before the I get boost ? Help

09-23-2009, 11:40 AM	#6
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX Posts: 335 Rep Power: 18	I've never driven an automatic rx7 but that doesn't sound right. I imagine with properly running twins it should build boost sooner. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-24-2009, 07:57 AM	#7
Painter The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 6 Rep Power: 0	Turbo Lag Any ideas on what to look for, I'm gettiing 12lbs of boost when it spools up around 250 rpms, as far as i can tell the second turbo may have issues, also i beleive my idel is low around 600rpms. Thanks, Mark

09-24-2009, 09:51 AM	#8
lt1_fd3s WNC Tour Guide Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: WNC Posts: 780 Rep Power: 18	To help answer the initial question of trans swap: I've done three of them, once for myself and then for 2 friends. You do not have to swap out the ECU nor do you need to swap out the emissions harness that runs from the ECU all over the engine. You will have a handful of plugs from the transmission you will have to zip tie up out of the way. also, there is a little box near the ECU (I believe it is a little black electronics box) that can be removed. My car would backfire upon shut off until I removed it. I've not done the swap in a few years so I can't remember exactly what the box is called. as for the driveshafts: the flanges that bolt the driveshafts to the diffs are different. the auto has a larger bolt pattern than the manual. also, the length of the driveshafts are different. I believe the manual shaft is about 1'' to 2'' shorter due to differences in the diffs themselves. I've been told you can take your diff apart and swap out the "input shaft" on the diff to deal with the length and the bolt pattern. I personally purchased a manual shaft and then swapped out the u-joint and flange on my auto shaft to the manual flange. my brother was able to pull off this feat, but a drive shaft shop may be able to do it for you. good luck. __________________ WNC Tour Guide - Including the Tail of the Dragon - PM for details

09-24-2009, 04:10 PM	#10
Painter The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 6 Rep Power: 0	Transmission/ Turbo lag I've just driven it, what I'm trying to say is it just begins to spool up at 2500 with full boost @ 3500 to 4000. From 0 to 2500 its slow. The second turbo dosen't seem to be right it dose not come back to 10 I'm not getting that second kick, Someone told me that some line comes loose from this turbo offten, has anyone heard this, and is getting under the car the way to check for this ?

09-25-2009, 01:24 AM	#11
dudemaaan Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brenham, TX Posts: 335 Rep Power: 18	Yeah sounds like something up with the sequential system. Boost should come on sooner and hold steady after the small dip. There are lots of vacuum lines, check valves, and solenoids that can fail. The only way is to just go through everything. Doing a silicone vacuum hose job would be a good idea while you're looking through the rats nest. __________________ 500+ HP thanks to: Fast reacting IAT sensor thread! Mechanical Pre-turbo Water Injection Thread Dual Stock fuel pumps Thread T2 differential swap!

09-25-2009, 07:38 AM	#12
Painter The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 6 Rep Power: 0	Transmission I know its almost impossible to diagnose problems this way, when I park it for the winter I'll do the vacumn hose thing, any info on the best hose to get? Thanks to everyone who offered comments, Mark