A little refresh/save done my way! AND I LIKE PICS!!!

[proz07]

Well i decided to enjoy the car for the next 2 weeks till i was deployed, I had essentially gotten to a good stopping point on the car till I returned. Basically i was exactly where i wanted to be with it till this year.

While driving the car i started to make a list of what was annoying me, rattles, noises, broke parts, ablity to drive consistently so on and so forth.

During this time my local ADVANCED AUTO store rented a dyno for the day at one of thier local car shows. It was free 3 runs if you could get in before like 6pm, there were a few cars in line but i figured if i dont get it no harm if i do itll be a free BASELINE dyno for me to go off of for later power mods. Turns out some people left early and i got to get on the dyno. I only got 1 decent pull unfortunatly because my cheap plumbing coupler started to blow half way through but still held 10psi to the end so it came out in the end good enough for a baseline.
heres the dyno and busted coupler.



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THIS IS WHERE THE CAR SAT TILL 09'


I GUESS THIS IS WHERE THE BUILD PART STARTS.

THE LIST:

rattles
loose interior parts
tranny whine/grind all except 4th ????
hard to start with current cutch
LOUD NOISES EVERYWHERE


O.K. this all kinda is going to go together for one reason. THE CAR IS TIRING TO DRIVE IT ISNT AS ENJOYABLE AS IT NEEDS TO BE.

I have ordered EDEAD for the sound deadening department it is an equivalent to DYNOMAT from the reviews i read and is close to 1/4 the price. i hope it works as good as they say! So needless to say while i wait for the material to come in i am removing the interior to gain access to the bare metal where it needs to be attatched to. While doing this i am tightening. clipping, fixing interior panels parts and pieces to make everything fit correctly and not rattle once i reassembly it. As of right now everything up to removing the dash is done i will do that task tommorrow but this is how the car sits currently in my garage.



During this whole process i will be relocating my battery to the passenger bin and adding a painless 7 cicuit harness to power all my non standard accessories. Such as my gauges and wideband i installed last year i didnt really like tapping into existing circuits so i will be rerunning the power to them through this fuse block. I hope to run the power wire after the dash and carpet is removed.

Summit brand battery relocation cable kit 2ga
Odyssey 925 batt
Painless 7 circuit fuse panel 3x constant 4x ACC
150amp c/b autozone brand



I will then mock up a battery, C/B, fuse block holding tray that will fit into the passenger bin without cutting out the entire bottom of the bin hopefully just enough for 3 mount posts if all goes right. I figure this will allow me to practice my tig welding in a not so critical area.


Dash out, now i think this is as far as i go till the EDEAD comes in that way i dont forget where everything goes when i put it back together. This is going to be a good time to clean out all the dust and debries in the air ducts.

[proz07]

i do hve a question though with the clutch pedal mount? Take a look and if you could check yours let me know if this is right? im going to look in the FSM see if i can find anything but if anyone can check that would be great.





Well iv bee alot busier than i thought i was gonna be so im still working on sound deadening but before i did that i decided to change the clutch out from a solid 6-puck to a street modified ACT disk. i only changed the disk as the clutch was new and only has 2k miles on it practically new.



I refilled the trans with REDLINE SHOCKPROOF HEAVY weight as the trans was grinding in everything but 4th assuming bearing noise but it was loud with royal purple. So hopefully this will quite it down with the rest of my "comfort" mods. THis stuff is one step away from grease it is THICK!!!



At this point i have around 20+ hrs in sound deadening time and much more to go. I'v been looking around and it seems im doing quite a bit more than most have done. So we will see how it turns out. As you can see in the red circle i also did the firewall as i already pulled he dash, I figured might as well do as much as i can so i dont have to do it later. Basicly do it right the first time and it comes out cheaper.

[proz07]

well been busy getting the carpet in and dash back in and connected, it takes a min when your doing it by yourself!




now before the rear bins go back in i needed to run the power cables for the battery relocation.



well iv been researching how people would mount thier batteries in the rear bins and most of them i didnt like so i ended up making one with feet through the bin for mounting and a bracket for the painless 7 circuit fuse block.



and here it is installed just need to get some more eyelets to redo the short run to the breaker as its only 4 gauge right now.



i have also relocated where my WB was to the center consol, it still needs to be adjusted once i redo my exhaust and move the sensor location to give me more wire to put the lc-1 in a spot that wont hit anything.

[proz07]

UPDATE: well got the car driving again not finished by any means but driving to make me want to work on it more. the center console is in as well as the seats. just enough to drive.



all in all the edead seems to be helping but i changed so much at one time there inst really any definate answer and i still need to do the rear of the car behind the bins where most noise is comng from anyway . The car is now infinatly more enjoyable to drive with the new full face organic clutch disk and redline fluids in the trans quieted it WAY down very happy with it. in retrospect i will be more than willing to spend the money to get a stockish feeling clutch that will hold high power later on than suffer with a 6-puck!!

The F***'d clutch pedal has been fixed and can be seen here http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=6747

well my folks were visiting over the last week so i didnt really get to work to much on the beast but i wanted to atleast get something done today so i installed my TWEAK IT single turbo idler pulley. nice setup!



As you can see here the puley is slightly angled not much so ill fix it later but its from my mount tab on the water pump housing being F***'d but no biggy ill shim it out later.

[proz07]

Well after a coupe bearings in the idler pulley TWEAKIT racing changed to the original idlers bearing and all is good now very glad that they stand behind thier work very well i went through 4 bearings free of charge..


As of now finishing the interior is a slow crawl when i get around to it but i decided to quite this car down even more i will be building a 3" inch exhaust to replace the 4" to quite it down and give it more of the 2-stroke brap than the 4" i have now. till then though i have made a quite 3" insert and it works pretty good but kinda nulls the point of a 4" exhaust whixh is why im gonna build a 3" later

heres the 3" silencer




And once again a little inteior fixing..... my glove box handle was broke off but all the tabs and everything in the box is still good and its a 94 so i can take it apart. i made an aluminum handle which works very good shouldnt have to worry about it breaking either i might give it a finish eventually but you cant see it installed anyway and it works so i will leave it as is for now


heres the handle



connected


might finish it later

[proz07]

now some of you may have seen the Banzia racing 3rotor on the 7club well i finally saw an intercooler setup i liked and have decided to copy it somewhat. I already had a percision 750hp universal intercooler 24x10.5x3.5 and then went ahead and picked up a koyo N-flow from Works Connection for about 300 on sale very nice price for a very nice triple pass radiator

now im deploying next week and for some reason got it in my head to try and complete it before then soo.... i started moving the relay box to under the front core support worked out pretty nice although it is upside down i may turn it over once i get back but for now and the fact i dont drive in the rain i think itll be fine for now this way.

heres how iv mounted it as i know others may want to know how to move it out of the way. i know i did and couldnt find any real how to on it.



see its now flush allowing close install of the radiator.



And here is a few of how im mounting the intercooler like the greddy front mount only with endtank inlet outlets running right under the frame rails just around the koyo. this is my first intercooler modification so it could be better but itll work for now i think...i hope



radiator vertically mounted



under the car it is slightly lower than the intercooler but i can raise it if need be later but it wont be the first thing to hit if anything happens so not to worried about it.