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RX-7 1st Gen Specific (1979-85) RX-7 1979-85 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections |
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#1 |
The Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
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13b turbo SA22
Hello,
I want to swap a 13b series 6 into my SA22, single turbo will be used, or how hard is it to fit the twin turbo setup? In order to keep the original computer. I need all the parts needed to make the engine fit Please list whats needed (computer, exhaust manifold, mounts etc.) and price Thankyou Name: David Robertson. B.Int.Rel. MBA Address: Japan, 899-4332 kirishima shi, Kokubu Chuou 1, Choume 12-11-1 Email: robertson.david.campbell@gmail.com Website: www.kagoshimaenglish.com paypal: rotary.workshop@gmail.com skype: kagoshima.english ebay: http://shop.ebay.com.au/merchant/rotaryworkshop Last edited by kagoshima; 11-17-2008 at 11:33 PM. Reason: my details |
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#2 | |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Then just have a custom exhaust made, among all of the other little bits and pieces. I reccomend at least upgrading to gsl-se brakes and getting some nice rubber, i think respeed also sells a kit to use T2 brakes and 5 lug wheels. You'll need to upgrade the rear end to hold more than 300whp as well, a ford 8.8 or 9" rear end is a popular choice. Granny's speed shop has the conversion parts i do believe. There is plenty of other things to do but i think i outlined most of the stuff specific to doing a big single swap into an sa.
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#3 | |
Custom User Title
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA / Pullman, WA
Posts: 350
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There are four ways to mount a 13B in a 12A chassis. All require a 12A or GSL-SE front cover (tapped for turbo oil return, in your case).
1. GSL-SE crossmember (probably difficult to come by if you're in Japan) 2. Racing Beat front mount bar 3. Slot the holes on your 12A crossmember and front mount bar each by 10mm 4. ReSpeed's adjustable crossmember (if you're planning on converting to rack and pinion steering) Ditch the stock ECU. If your budget is tight, get a MegaSquirt. Then convert the twins to non-sequential or go single. Like TehMonkay says, get some sticky tires and good brakes. I'd recommend ReSpeed's FC brake conversion. Don't forget a nice clutch/flywheel setup. Get an aluminum radiator and front-mount oil cooler and intercooler if you don't have them yet. If you have an '84-85 (big flange, big bearing) rear end, you can just get the Moser axles from ReSpeed and it should hold as long as you're not making crazy power and launching on slicks. I'd be more concerned about the tranny. Upgrading to a TII unit would be a wise investment, and allows the use of 240mm cluch components. One crucial step is an upgraded fuel system. Simply sticking a Walbro 255 in the stock system will not do. You'll need a surge tank at least. Tweakit sells them. Depending on your planned power level, and whether the car is a 12AT model or not, you may need larger lines as well.
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#4 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 302
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Are SA tanks not baffled? I don't know too much about 1st gens. just learning on through.
I also forgot about the T2 tranny conversion, very good idea indeed.
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#5 |
Slow
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 38
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What kind of budget do you have and what kind of power are you looking for? If you're unsure about power, what do you want to do with the car?
Physically getting the motor in the car is the easy part. You need a mount and a 1st Gen front cover tapped for oil return as stated above. Since you have the car and I'm assuming the front cover on the 12a, slot the holes on the 12a mount and pick up a GSL-SE oil pan for less than $20 used (I would suggest a oil pan baffle also for another ~$50) and now the motor is in the car. Or you can use the racing beat conversion mount($96), or do the Re-Speed cross member which will give you ability to use a mustang rack and pinion if you want($399-$850). Then you have to either make a mount for either the REW tranny or a 2nd Gen TII tranny. You will also have to have the drive shaft modified with the correct yoke for the tranny. Expect to spend a couple hundred dollars here. There are other things that need to be done(ecu, cooling, exhaust, clutch, etc.), but it all depends on your budget and power goals. Also the more work you can do yourself, the cheaper it will be. Last edited by drewski86; 11-18-2008 at 10:05 AM. |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA / Pullman, WA
Posts: 350
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Not to a useful extent. If you're planning on boosting while cornering with less than, say, 1/3 tank, you need a surge tank. GSL-SE (and 12AT I assume) tanks have larger sumps, but they're still not even as big as that of an NA FC.
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#7 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 69
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you're all forgetting something very important, the FD uses a center mount system while the 13b-re or TII motors use a front motor mounting point. This is why it's much easier to put in a TII or 13b-re into a FB/SA.
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#8 | |
Custom User Title
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Seattle, WA / Pullman, WA
Posts: 350
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No, the FD uses a rear-mount setup. The FC uses a center-mount setup. That's why you need a first-gen style front cover in either case.
Edit: drewski86 is right about needing the GSL-SE oil pan. Forgot about that.
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Last edited by PercentSevenC; 11-18-2008 at 11:27 PM. |
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#9 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Irvine, Southern California
Posts: 99
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Since you are in Japan, (if you can speak japanese) call R-Magic. They just recently swapped the guts of a series 6 FD into a yellow SA22C.
If you need a name and number, PM me. |
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#10 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 46
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FD'S are rear mounted
FC are center mounted SA/FB'S are front mounted hence the reason why he/she need the front cover to do the swap into a first gen chassis
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#11 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 69
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#12 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 80
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did it by myself, no troubles. sold
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