Suspension Bushings Selection Discussion

[TitaniumTT]

Yup.... Or a ball peen and a cold chisel... I'm referring to the rear bushing on the front LCA though.... Press and bearing separator...

[Pete_89T2]

Thanks guys, lots of good recommendations & how-to info here!

Originally Posted by RETed

Strictly suspension, go with the Energy Suspension kit, especially if you're running stock (i.e. anti-sway bars) components.

The Mazdaspeed (old Mazda Comp) stuff is pricey, if you compare per unit.
(I do recommend the Mazdaspeed stuff when talking about engine / trans mounts, front-nose rear diff, and top-rear rear diff bushings - none of these are "suspension" components though.)

Yup, I do realize the cost of the Mazdaspeed parts are pricey as hell compared to the ES kit. The reason I asked about mixing & matching between MS parts and the polyurethane ES bushings is because in theory, the much harder/stiffer ES bushings dampen less that the stock pieces and might allow more NVH into the cabin. If you guys are saying the before & after difference regarding NVH is unnoticeable, then it would appear the ES kit is the no-brainer choice.

I'm only talking suspension bushings here; no plans to BDC my car with hockey puck motor mounts For those parts I've already decided to go with the MS parts. I already have the MS engine mounts, need to get the trans mount, front diff & rear diff bushings. May as well, since I'll be in there anyway!

Originally Posted by RETed

I do recommend the DTSS eliminator bushings, as they do make the rear end more stable and predictable.
If you're used to the original DTSS, this mod will cause the rear to "feel slow"; it takes some getting used to, but in the long run the chassis is more stable.
Mazda used to sell an OEM replacement, but I'm not sure if this is still available or if it's "NLA" listed now...

I'll have to give Ray Crowe a call and see if the stock DTSS bushings can be had separately and what they cost and let you all know. My guess is if they are, they will cost a bundle. In concept, a working DTSS sounds like a great idea, but since I've never driven an FC with a working DTSS, I'm inclined to just go with the DTSS eliminator bushings and be done with it.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Agree with Ted on all accounts.... get the energy suspension kit and go to war.... and there will be some battles on some of the bushings as described below.

As Ted said, per unit, it comes out ALOT cheaper to get the ES kit as opposed to getting the MS pieces separately. IMHO the ES pieces are tougher and cheaper without adversely effecting the NVH.

That's what I needed to hear regarding NVH differences. Have you been running the ES pieces on your FC? How are they holding up over time?

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

No... when it comes to mounts, unless you want to take the BDC approach and purchase a 2x4 to cut into engine mounts, the MS stuff is the way to go... and again agreeing with Ted here, Engine mounts, tranny mounts, front diff nose mounts, and outside diff mounts are better had with MazdaSpeed pieces as opposed to the derlin counter parts. Having said that I do have a pair of derlin on the outside of the Diff because they were basically free and I really don't mind them. I didn't expect them to really increase NVH and they really didn't.

Roger all that, no desires to BDC my car

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Installations.... first.... make good friends with someone with a press and a bearing separator or find a machine shop that has these two tools. Otherwise it's going to be a war of cutoff wheels, hacksaws, chizels and hammers to get the bushings off the pivot on the lower control arm.. The proper tools turns this into a 3 minute one handed operation and honestly, it would be worth the $120 from HF for the press and whatever they have a bearing separator for.

The press is also going to be VERY handy for all the other bushings... otherwise they're ALL going to fight in one way shape or form....

Realize this one is a major PITA... For doing the work, I can either do it all at the auto shop on APG where I work, where I'd have access to a press, bearing separators and an arsenal of air tools. To save myself some coin on the bay rental & car storage fees, I can yank the LCAs & rear hub/control arm pieces at home and take them to APG to use their tools to press out & install the new bushings. Or if Speed1 can do the whole job in a single day, I might just take the trip up there to let them do it all and be done with it.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

You also have an S5. I would look into finding a set of S4 LCA's, ball joints and sway bar links as well....

Good idea, that would make the ball joints on the LCA and sway bar end links serviceable. Are there any downsides to this, besides finding a good set of S4 LCA's? Does this alter suspension geometry at all and require some alignment tweaks?

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Pete_89T2

Yup, I do realize the cost of the Mazdaspeed parts are pricey as hell compared to the ES kit. The reason I asked about mixing & matching between MS parts and the polyurethane ES bushings is because in theory, the much harder/stiffer ES bushings dampen less that the stock pieces and might allow more NVH into the cabin. If you guys are saying the before & after difference regarding NVH is unnoticeable, then it would appear the ES kit is the no-brainer choice.

The polyurethane bushings in the suspension points add very little NVH.
In fact, unless you're really looking for it, I doubt you could tell the difference between identical chassis' with identical mods with the exception of the suspension bushing differences.
In terms of STIFFENING the suspension, now most people would realize that there is something different!

If you have any type of upgraded suspension components (as most of us do), I doubt you would feel the difference; most would just chalk it up to the other upgrade suspension stuffs.

Even going from the stock 205 / 55 / 16 size tire down to a 45-series or 40-series tire is going to jar your spine more.
Energy Suspension does very good R&D on their products, so their product claims are spot on.
Man, I'm starting to sound like a commercial...
(Apologies, as I do not get paid to type all of this.)

That's what I needed to hear regarding NVH differences. Have you been running the ES pieces on your FC? How are they holding up over time?

The enemies of polyurethane are heat and UV.
Heat is negligible, and UV is non-existent.


-Ted