Running diesel oil

[vex]

Who's done it and with what results?

I'm planning on running some CJ-4 at some point after the break in period and was wondering if anyone has done it yet. I've been reading up on it and ash content is a very important thing to consider with out engines so i'm curious if anyone has run diesel oil, or better yet has been running other oil with a known ash content less than 0.05?

[Whizbang]

i use Rotella T quite often.

[vex]

http://www.englefieldoil.com/PDF/RotellaTMGCJ4.pdf

Ash content seems a little high for the CJ-4

[Fidelity101]

Originally Posted by Low Impedance

i use Rotella T quite often.

results?

[Whizbang]

Originally Posted by Fidelity101

results?

works great really. Its really hard to tell how well an oil really WORKS on an engine that has some mileage already to it. But i never had much carbon build up even with the engine burning oil.

[vex]

What viscosity are you running? 5w-40?

[Whizbang]

15W-40 Rotella for my daily cars. My rarely used "track like" toys get way different things.

[Black91n/a]

Diesel oil is meant for diesel engines and has a significantly differnet additive package than gasoline engine oil, so it is therefore a BAD idea to run it in your gas engine cars. I was told that by someone who teaches courses on lubrication all over North America.

DON'T DO IT

[Whizbang]

i would curious as to what the exact differences are and the extent of the significance. As far as a rotary engine goes, i see many similarities expect for perhaps RPM ranges.

[Black91n/a]

IIRC (I looked it up today at work), there's more anti-wear by about 80% (lower speeds, higher loads, so its needed more), but I don't remember the rest exactly.

Basically by running diesel oil, you're saying you know more about lubrication than the lubrication experts that set the standards, and that's just not the case. If you're worried about it, just run a good quality synthetic. Amsoil is apparently about the best you can get.

[RETed]

Long time Shell Rotella-T user here...
Got no problems, and tear downs don't reveal any problems...
I get a little lazy at times and lengthen service intervals to 5,000 miles.
Yeah, I know...I know.
The car doesn't get run hard nowadays.
1987 Turbo II
13BT
Haltech E8
Last put down 240hp at the wheels on a DynaPack dyno
Daily driver
10 - 12psi of boost max
Premix'd with Valvoline Multi-use premix in the blue bottle


-Ted

[Black91n/a]

I had another look, they've typically got more anti-wear and more anti-corrosion, dispersant and detergent additives. That might sound like a good thing, but really, if you don't need it, it's better to not have an additive, since you get less actual oil in your oil.

[vex]

Originally Posted by Black91n/a

IIRC (I looked it up today at work), there's more anti-wear by about 80% (lower speeds, higher loads, so its needed more), but I don't remember the rest exactly.

Basically by running diesel oil, you're saying you know more about lubrication than the lubrication experts that set the standards, and that's just not the case. If you're worried about it, just run a good quality synthetic. Amsoil is apparently about the best you can get.

That doesn't take into account CJ4 which is for hi-rev/hi-load diesel engines.

[Whizbang]

i figured that since diesels are high heat and rotaries are high heat, it can't be too bad a combo. Standard gas 4 cylinder engines do run quite different than a standard rotary engine. And im sure no company is going to make something specific to the operating needs of the wankel.

[Black91n/a]

The exhaust gas may be high heat, but the oil temperatures seen in a rotary are no different than those seen in a regular gas piston engine. Besides, it was designed for gasoline engine oil.

Even "high rpm" diesels will still redline below your average gasoline piston engine.

I'm not saying that the additive packages will have those exact differences, that's just what the "typical" differences are apparently, and it'll be a bit different depending on what standard the oil is made to as well.