TitaniumTT's I hope I make it to DGRR '09 Build

[project86]

thats awesome. sounds sweet too

[BigIslandSevens]

Nice job man!!Impressive how many pulls you have done. Supporting Dave's alimony I imagine( Don't know if he has any, just sayin!)

[Whizbang]

congrats!!!

[Max777]

damn, so 80 dyno pulls at around $100 per hour... assuming we're talking around a 1pull/ hour average here, that's around $8,000!

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

Your turn next pal

Originally Posted by project86

thats awesome. sounds sweet too

Me loves my Magnaflows

Originally Posted by Gravity Fed

congrats!!!

Thanks

Originally Posted by BigIslandSevens

Nice job man!!Impressive how many pulls you have done. Supporting Dave's alimony I imagine( Don't know if he has any, just sayin!)

Originally Posted by Max777

damn, so 80 dyno pulls at around $100 per hour... assuming we're talking around a 1pull/ hour average here, that's around $8,000!

We did 17 pulls that day alone. My car doesn't build heat quickly at all. After 5 strait pulls in a 20 - 30 minute back to back raping, my oil temps were ~160, coolant @ 185* after the pull and coming down to 180* before the next, AIT's started the day @ 55* and never got above 77*. My car kicks ass

Negative, no where near that. Dave's pricing structure is no where near greedy like alot of the other shops around. Factoring in the $60+ worth of gas I need to get there and back.... not to mention we use between 1/8 and a 1/4 tank ON the dyno, it's still way cheaper than going at it local. Dave is just a hell of a guy in generaland bills what he thinks is fair. His tuning/dyno is not billed on an hourly basis and that's all I'm going to say. Dollars in vs his expertise, time and everything else, it's honestly worth a drive from hundreds of miles away, a hotel room if needed, and maybe an internal organ to go see him. That may be why his que is pretty busy and he has clients that cross more than 6 state borders sometimes. I literally could go on for hours about him..... in fact, see below.

[TitaniumTT]

So yeah, onto more fuel related bullshit on the dyno.... it literally never ends.

So.... Get to Dave's saturday morning and get the car all strapped down and we start making pulls probably around 12:30 ish. Made 15 pulls over the course of like 3 hours before she started going lean again in the higher revs......... no I'm not shitting you. Look at FPSI and it's falling off again but by only 25% as much as before. Ok, new filter, new pump, new sock, lines are clean, tanks clean, Dave looks at me and says, "No offense to you, but it's you're wiring. It HAS to be. Can we get to it easy?" "Yeah, I need a phillips, a 5m Allen and 3 minutes."

4 minutes later we're holding the wiring and the relay in our hands and they're warm to the touch, not good, showing ~12V with the car running, even worse. I've got, err HAD the wiring as follows. 10GA from a breakered powerpost to a breaker, to the relay dropping down to the factory wiring into the pump. The wires in the pump being new. The ground was just runto the neared nutsert where I pulled power for the stereo as well. Upon REALLY close examination we found that there was a slight bit of corrosion on the eyelets and the relay contact itself was getting burned slightly. Dave explained to me that the way he wires pumps is to send a constant hot to the pump, and trigger the ground. This stops the sparking that occurs when the relay closes. He also runs the ground directly back to the battery to greatly reduce any chance of corrosion or resistance.

So, that's what we did. After about an hour or so or cranking away we were getting 13.9V to the pump........... Dave is again, proving himself to be the man.

I've got a little bit of re-wiring to do to clean up what we just didn't have the time to do. I've got a comandment that I live by when wiring. With regards to the battery, Thou shall not use more than one wire per terminal on the battery. I've got two seperate powerposts hidden under the storage bins. So over the next two days I need to strip out the seats, the stereo, a good portion of the interior panels on the drivers side, the bins and even the fiberglass deck to run the ground wire a little more neatly.

Then it's back to Dave's on Thursday or Friday to FINALLY play with the sequentials. We we're hoping to get to those on Saturday, and probably could've if we didn't run into this little problem. Oh well, it would've been nice too to have that extra power down low for this



Shaved 4 seconds off a prior run and whopped up on some STI's as well I was happy

[MaczPayne]

Looked like you had great traction!

[TitaniumTT]

Slight understeer in some corners and you could feel the tires just trying to grab and hop. Was running old Toyo RA1's on a chilly day. They never got to 90*F surface temp and they need alot more heat than that. Also had the boost turned down as well to help keep traction.

I need some dedicated auto-x tires for next year. I'm thinking A6's or V710's. 255F 275R

[WE3RX7]

So after all this it was the wiring to the pump? I typically wire things the way Dave mentioned so hopefully I'll be good when that time comes.

Do you run any class w/ auto-x or just fun runs? Kind of hard to place your car in NASA, lol...

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

So after all this it was the wiring to the pump? I typically wire things the way Dave mentioned so hopefully I'll be good when that time comes.

Do you run any class w/ auto-x or just fun runs? Kind of hard to place your car in NASA, lol...

Oh no, the wiring was just the last thing. The filters were definately clogged. You could pour gas into them and nothing would come out. After cleaning them they would flow fine (when I was using the Marren washable Stainless) and I replaced the pump @ DGRR '09 and still had the problem ( a little less but it was still there and the oldf RP sounded like a dying cat), it wasn't until I replaced the filter that it went away.

The Cosmo pump was definately weak, Amp tests confirmed that AND when the pressure started falling off on Sat it only fell off 1/4 of what it did.

So LITERALLY EVERY section of the fuel system from the the cap on the fender to the return line has either been replaced or cleaned or re-wired.

I told Dave back in April that we'd get this car done just in time for me to take her apart for the winter. I was dead on accurate on that

There are two Auto-x clubs in CT that I belong to. One puts me in SMA or Street Mod All and when I went to the second I didn't want to be in that class as it was populated entirely by STI's & Evo's completely decked out running race tires. So when I registered at the second one the conversation went like this

What car
'88 RX7
What have you done to it?
alot
like
like alot
sounds like CSP to me
ok


So that's what I compete in as well as the rookie class. Generally you run rookie till you win it. Seeing as how I made it to less than 10% of the events this year, I'll be back in rookie next year with a shot at winning it.

[antman0408]

I told you to check the voltage at the pump. Glad you got it figured out, and can finally get to run it sequential, I'm really interested in seeing what it can do.

Your car is contagious, Im having a similar problem you had. I went to the track on Friday and it started misfiring, did a datalog and found out I was hitting 12.9-13.0 afr in boost.

[WE3RX7]

I just watched your autox vid, lol... "YEA" I love that reaction... car looks like a monster though I love it. It gives me a pit in my stomach though knowing how much farther I have to go on mine Ah well, it'll be worth it....

[Turbo II Rotor]

Finally. Sounds like you might want to upgrade that relay to something with contacts rated for a little more amperage. Something with a magnetic blow out would be nice but probably overkill.

Btw since you have a thirst for knowledge like me, the contacts arc more when they break instead of make since it will pull an arc across the air gap. Air is a semi-conductor.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by antman0408

I told you to check the voltage at the pump. Glad you got it figured out, and can finally get to run it sequential, I'm really interested in seeing what it can do.

I did check the voltage at the pump. The issue was though, and this is why it was so fricken hard to find, is that it was only doing it on the dyno. On the dyno we're asking it to pump out 55+psi for hours on end. What was happening was the wiring was getting warm to the touch. When I was checking voltages at home it was 1/2 a volt low. On the dyno, after constant abuse, when the wiring was warm, she was showing much lower than that.

Originally Posted by antman0408

Your car is contagious, Im having a similar problem you had. I went to the track on Friday and it started misfiring, did a datalog and found out I was hitting 12.9-13.0 afr in boost.

OUCH! That's not horribly lean though. As long as you weren't making massive amounts of boost everything should be just fine. What's she doing?

Originally Posted by WE3RX7

I just watched your autox vid, lol... "YEA" I love that reaction... car looks like a monster though I love it. It gives me a pit in my stomach though knowing how much farther I have to go on mine Ah well, it'll be worth it....

Yeah, everyone seems to mock me a little for that reaction. I shaved 4 seconds of my previous time and beat up on about 1/2 the 400+AWD cars there so I was REALLY happy with that run.
Over the winter I need to get 4 things squared away -

1) a set of dedicated race rims/tires. Looking @ RPF01 in a 17x8.5+30 with a 255/40/17 V710 and a 17x9.5 +40 with a 275/40/17 V710. That should get me some more traction.

2) Also going to do traction control as well. I found that in the higher gears I'm actually running faster. I believe becuase I'm not losing as much traction. BUT, it's a little harder to drive at the limit. I know I can get faster times. I checked the datalogs and I hit 100% throttle position ONCE! What I would love to be able to do is get the sequentials set up and be able to come out of a turn in 2nd gear and just MASH the pedal and let the MoTeC keep the ass where she should be for the most part.

3) Also on that traction control issue is a feature in the MoTeC that allows you to mash the pedal and it will stutter the igntion at the RPM where the next LOWEST gear is. So, if I'm coming into a turn, clutch in, heel-toe, as soon as the ignition stutters I know that the tranny will slide right into gear. Yes the Motec is badass!

4) 6-spd needs to be finished. The ratios in the Type R box BLOW for for auto-x. Losing a lot of torquw when shifting into 2nd. The 6-spd will tighten everything up just enough, or so I believe based on the math. I'll be able to shift into 2nd and be above 4500 rpms.

Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor

Finally. Sounds like you might want to upgrade that relay to something with contacts rated for a little more amperage. Something with a magnetic blow out would be nice but probably overkill.

The one in there now is rated for 40A. That should be enough. Pump is only pulling ~12A

Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor

Btw since you have a thirst for knowledge like me, the contacts arc more when they break instead of make since it will pull an arc across the air gap. Air is a semi-conductor.

Interesting. So when the relay is run to trigger the hot, she'll arc twice, but only once when triggering the hot?

BTW Scott, any other meets before the snow starts flying? I think she's coming off the road the weekend after turkey day

[EJayCe996]

So the issue went from big to small eh. Its always the small shit in the end.... Kinda like my car not running still because I don't want to drive out to Mazda Heaven just to cut the lower frame rail out of the passenger side of one of their junkyard FCs for the subframe studs. (I'm forcing myself to this weekend since my barber is ALMOST on that side of town)