Looking for PFC base map for ID 1000/2000

[TitaniumTT]

What ECU are you running?

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

you need to stop listening to random shitcunts.

Fucking that.....

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

define the problem and find its cause:

Is the crank signal dropping out dur FFE shit set up? scope this
If ok is the fueling correct for your ported motor? v's the stock calibration?
This is not that hard.

When I saw the vid.... it's extremely hard to hear over a cell phone vid, then uploaded, then through my shitty laptop speakers, but I heard the timing fucking up.... could be totally wrong because I'm not actually there.... but that's what I heard....

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

You will just waste time with another ECU, and a pfc does not run 1000cc inj well anyway. I do have a map I can send you but it will have mollested primary lag time so itca work @idle due to the pfc min injector limit restrictions.

Fucking PFC's..... I tuned that exact setup and had to lower the fuel pressure in order to raise the duty cycle of the primaries to get it to work kinda sorta right.....

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

The only problem i'm having it that it won't rev past 2k rpm. Both rotors are firing and seems to be working fine.. until 2k.

Seen that many times actually... the air gap can fuck things up pretty well. Even a slight bend in the factory trigger wheel will fuck it all up.

Something else I saw on a PFC equipped shitbox was a single pin, the Ne signal, on the ecu got twisted. So when the connector was inserted the female socket on the connector got bent and really weak. Scoped it from the backside of the connector and everything looked fine so I kept on troubleshooting the bitch.... took a while to figure that one out and it was actually Dave that found it. Car would run fine until about 4k on the dyno then it would just start to skip and miss and not go past that point. So while the sensors were reporting correctly, the connection to the ECU was fragged and thus the ecu not seeing what it needed to...

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

For the amount of effort it takes to hook up a pfc just to see what happens, i don't think its a waste of time.

If all else fails....

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

At idle the AFR is right around 11 +/- a little bit. Looking at the tune, that is right where the target AFR is in those cells so i really don't know what to make of everything.

That is way to fat. I tend to idle the PFC cars between .85-.88L (12.5-13)... my personal car is around .88-.91(13-13.4) depending on temp. So if you're idling at that fat @ .75L it could be dropping way below .7 or even .66L and just blowing the spark out. This will read a false lean on the wideband.

What ignition system are you running, dwell time, what plugs, have you pulled the plugs?

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

http://fullfunctioneng.com/product/trigger-kit-fd/ POST a pic of what you run? cause I have no idea why or what you have of you saying its still using the stock 12+1 Ne and G sensor set up with just are you using a 36-2 wheel set up like above?

If its totally stock if you have changed the GAP to the stock timing wheel this will change the voltage the ECU sees, and the trigger thresholds could be too high and thus your signals could be dropping out and hence not going over 2k rpm if all else checks out ok.

I think you're on the right track with the signal dropping out, or not being setup properly in the ECU.....

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Ah no, not the whole fancy trigger setup just this one bracket:

http://fullfunctioneng.com/product/oem-trigger-bracket/

I'm quite sure I checked the gap as well. FSM says between 1 and 2 mm or something like that and it's right there. Wouldn't hurt to check again though next weekend.

I would check it again and pull the wheel off and make sure that it's straight and true... I had a bent wheel that was doing all sorts of fucked up shit...