Looking for PFC base map for ID 1000/2000

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Ecu is the link that rice had in the SP

Than it should be ok ESPECIALLY if it still has the same cal file on it.

What's your base FPSI?

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

The video you saw was really dumpy and not even running on 2 rotors. Did some fixing up and now at least both rotors are firing. This is a better vid:
YOUTUBE]

Still will be iphone quality though lol

Doesn't tell much without it being revv'ed to where it's fucking up.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I'll check the wheel to make sure but I can't see there bein an issue there. It was pulled working fine and sat flat on a shelf for a year an a half. To check it what do I do just lay it on a flat surface or what?

Or just rotate it and check the gap at each tooth.

Better would be to get an o-scope on the pins at the ECU and make sure it's getting a clean signal. FD harnesses aren't known for their robustness and something could've broken when the removed/installed. Or the sensors themselves are FUBAR.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I have no knowledge whatsoever of tuning. I just see the crosshairs on the PC interface for the ecu in a certain target AFR cell an cross reference that with my wideband.. They are right around the same? At that point I assume it's all okay but I guess that isn't really a good assumption.

Yeah.... 11's is just way to fucking fat and it may just be a tuning issue. If the ECU still has Peters map on it and it's not a setup, fuel/ignition cut, sensor/harness thing, you can try turning down the base FPSI until it's idling around .12.5-13:1 when at operating temp and then try revving it to see what happens. Changing the base FPSI will alter the entire "tune" without altering it... if that makes sense.

Well... what are the AFR's when it's stuttering @ 2k?

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Ignition is just the HKS unit and newer FD coils. Plugs are just the bur9eqp for now until the engine is broken in

So not that powerful

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I've pulled them a few times - what specifically did you want to know?

How wet are they?

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

To check the crank signal pins are intact I should just pull them out?

You don't have to de-pin them, just look at them. You can also check the resistance between the ECU and the sensor pins, check the shielding, check the sensors.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Now that I think about it one thin I should have done is hook the ecu up to a computer just to see if it's actually cutting fuel or ignition. Kind of hard to tell what's going on when the only thing you know is that it doesn't run

Truff....

[Mitchocalypse]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Than it should be ok ESPECIALLY if it still has the same cal file on it.

What's your base FPSI?



Doesn't tell much without it being revv'ed to where it's fucking up.



Or just rotate it and check the gap at each tooth.

Better would be to get an o-scope on the pins at the ECU and make sure it's getting a clean signal. FD harnesses aren't known for their robustness and something could've broken when the removed/installed. Or the sensors themselves are FUBAR.



Yeah.... 11's is just way to fucking fat and it may just be a tuning issue. If the ECU still has Peters map on it and it's not a setup, fuel/ignition cut, sensor/harness thing, you can try turning down the base FPSI until it's idling around .12.5-13:1 when at operating temp and then try revving it to see what happens. Changing the base FPSI will alter the entire "tune" without altering it... if that makes sense.

Well... what are the AFR's when it's stuttering @ 2k?



So not that powerful



How wet are they?



You don't have to de-pin them, just look at them. You can also check the resistance between the ECU and the sensor pins, check the shielding, check the sensors.



Truff....

Base fuel pressure is 43 psi but can easily change it

I'll get another video revving it on Friday so you can see. That is if the power fc doesn't magically make it work

I know you say 11 is too fat - I believe you, don't worry, but that is the target AFR according to the map so I don't know what to tell you there

I'm not sure the *exact* AFR when it starts cutting out but basically it revs normal, hits 2k, and you can hear there is absolutely no firing, the momentum the engine has caries the rpm up to about 2500 but you can hear it audibly cut out at about 2k, like there is nothing going on past there. So the AFR past 2k basically maxes out my meter at like 19+ cause it's just pumping a bunch I air through the engine at that point.

I'll upgrade ignition later cut a guy a break

Whenever I pulled them it was running on 1 rotor, so I'd sometimes have to pull them to deflood so .. Quite wet. Since it's been firing on 2 rotors I haven't really pulled them. All I an tell you is that I have idled the car for right around 15 seconds, killed it, and cranked it right back over and it starts no problem. Does the lack of flooding tell you anything you might want to know?

Like I know you're suggesting that there's too much fuel but is that something that could cause the 2k thing or is that another issue in itself? I think I need to just see if the ecu is cutting fuel or spark as a first step

I will check all that, I do remember testing the sensors as per FSM and they were right in spec.

BTW, I'm not able to do anything on the car during the week so that's why I can't just give you straight up answers on a lot of this. Gotta wait till Friday

[TitaniumTT]

Read whole post before proceeding nest time with the car...

As Peter said, you've got to troubleshoot it first before proceeding. It could be a variety of things ranging from some shitty trigger signals to poor tuning, horribly setup ECU parameters etc etc etc.....

If it's Peters old link ecu and still has the same cal file on it, if he was running the same ID1000/2000 setup than the cal file likely isn't to blame. If it's been changed then all bets are off. And what I would do is first scope it and make sure it's getting a clean trigger signal. I don't know Links well enough to know if they've got a counter like the older helltechs but if it does, it would be a perfect 12:1 ratio. If it isn't, than it's getting some funky trigger signals.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Base fuel pressure is 43 psi but can easily change it

You may need to.... you may want to trim the pressure back until it's idling in the high 12's and then try revving it.... although I would change the plugs first to brandy new ones.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I'll get another video revving it on Friday so you can see. That is if the power fc doesn't magically make it work

PFC's generally make things run worse

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I know you say 11 is too fat - I believe you, don't worry, but that is the target AFR according to the map so I don't know what to tell you there

Turn the closed loop off if you can and see what happens...

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I'm not sure the *exact* AFR when it starts cutting out but basically it revs normal, hits 2k, and you can hear there is absolutely no firing, the momentum the engine has caries the rpm up to about 2500 but you can hear it audibly cut out at about 2k, like there is nothing going on past there. So the AFR past 2k basically maxes out my meter at like 19+ cause it's just pumping a bunch I air through the engine at that point.

Well, the same thing can happen if it's way too rich to fire. Doesn't matter how much fuel is in there if it's not getting lit it's just going to pump air as well.... hence my earlier comment about a false lean reading

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I'll upgrade ignition later cut a guy a break

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Whenever I pulled them it was running on 1 rotor, so I'd sometimes have to pull them to deflood so .. Quite wet. Since it's been firing on 2 rotors I haven't really pulled them. All I an tell you is that I have idled the car for right around 15 seconds, killed it, and cranked it right back over and it starts no problem. Does the lack of flooding tell you anything you might want to know?

Once the plugs wet foul once, they're general garbage unless you've got a really badass media cleaner.

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

Like I know you're suggesting that there's too much fuel but is that something that could cause the 2k thing or is that another issue in itself? I think I need to just see if the ecu is cutting fuel or spark as a first step

I agree, and also that the ecu is getting a clean trigger signal.
After that it could just be the plugs are shit and there's too much fuel and it's cutting out.... could be as simple as that. I had an issue a month ago where my car wouldn't idle... it would start just fine but as it would idle down it would keep dropping and just die. I thought maybe the TPS was out of whack, a whole bunch of things and it turned out to be nothing more than shitty plugs... same bur9eq's but a year old...

Originally Posted by Mitchocalypse

I will check all that, I do remember testing the sensors as per FSM and they were right in spec.

BTW, I'm not able to do anything on the car during the week so that's why I can't just give you straight up answers on a lot of this. Gotta wait till Friday

Gotcha