Pete_89T2
03-02-2014, 07:34 AM
Well after a long wait, I got my turbo back from BNR Friday. I think Bryan took good care of me with this and it should be worth the wait. To jog everyone's memory, my turbo was a stock S5 with the BNR stage 1 rebuild treatment that had a premature life - she started smoking heavily after I put about 10K miles on it. Even though the 1 year warranty expired, Bryan agreed to rebuild it again but this time with all new parts and he only charged me the cost of the new parts. So I now have a turbo that is built with all new parts - new turbine wheel/shaft, CHRA housing, compressor wheel and of course all the new bearings, seals & rebuild parts. Another bonus was I got the same larger compressor housing & wheel this time as he puts in the Stage 2 units.
The only downside to this is my "to do" list for Deals Gap has grown substantially longer... The stock TID no longer fits, so I'll have to fab one up, and this most likely means I won't be able to retain the stock air filter box, and I might need to do something about the stock compressor bypass valve (CBV - aka stock version of a BOV) as well, which brings on my questions...
1. I'm running an Rtek 2.x ECU, so that means the AFM needs to stay, and I'm still going to run with stock boost control, so boost pressures will stay within 7.5~8.5 PSI range, but this upgraded compressor side will flow a greater volume of air than what I had. Does this warrant going to an aftermarket BOV, or can I retain the stock CBV that recirculates to the TID? I hope I can retain the stock CBV, although that will slightly complicate the TID plumbing fabrication.
2. If I REALLY need to go aftermarket BOV, what would you guys recommend? Selection criteria is (1) Protect my turbo from compressor surge, and (2) Pick the least obnoxious sounding BOV that meets the #1 criteria. As for plumbing it in, I bought the aluminum charge pipe that Corksport sells, so I figure that I can cut off the CBV nipple on it and find someone to weld the appropriate BOV flange/bung to it to mount up whatever BOV that I buy.
3. On the TID fabrication, the compressor inlet is 3" diameter, and the AFM outlet is about 3-1/16", so 3" silicone will work on both ends. Since I lack welding skills, I figure I'll use a silicone bend from the compressor, to an mandrel bent AL bend, and then a straight silicone coupler to join the AL pipe to the AFM outlet. Since it's an S5, I can just slap a round/cone K&N filter on the AFM inlet. I can make up some new brackets to locate the AFM, using the stock bracket mounting points. If I stick with the stock CBV, I'll need to plumb that back in to the TID, as well as the 2 other smaller lines. My options are (1) Find someone to weld some nipples onto the AL section, or (b) Pick up a few of these grommet & nipple things from Verocious Motorsports to add the fittings:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Silicone-Hose-Fittings/Vibrant-Hard-Mount-Vacuum-Line-Fitting
Thoughts? When all this crap is done, hopefully I'll have time to get up to Speed1 for a tuning session to get it all dialed in before DGRR.
The only downside to this is my "to do" list for Deals Gap has grown substantially longer... The stock TID no longer fits, so I'll have to fab one up, and this most likely means I won't be able to retain the stock air filter box, and I might need to do something about the stock compressor bypass valve (CBV - aka stock version of a BOV) as well, which brings on my questions...
1. I'm running an Rtek 2.x ECU, so that means the AFM needs to stay, and I'm still going to run with stock boost control, so boost pressures will stay within 7.5~8.5 PSI range, but this upgraded compressor side will flow a greater volume of air than what I had. Does this warrant going to an aftermarket BOV, or can I retain the stock CBV that recirculates to the TID? I hope I can retain the stock CBV, although that will slightly complicate the TID plumbing fabrication.
2. If I REALLY need to go aftermarket BOV, what would you guys recommend? Selection criteria is (1) Protect my turbo from compressor surge, and (2) Pick the least obnoxious sounding BOV that meets the #1 criteria. As for plumbing it in, I bought the aluminum charge pipe that Corksport sells, so I figure that I can cut off the CBV nipple on it and find someone to weld the appropriate BOV flange/bung to it to mount up whatever BOV that I buy.
3. On the TID fabrication, the compressor inlet is 3" diameter, and the AFM outlet is about 3-1/16", so 3" silicone will work on both ends. Since I lack welding skills, I figure I'll use a silicone bend from the compressor, to an mandrel bent AL bend, and then a straight silicone coupler to join the AL pipe to the AFM outlet. Since it's an S5, I can just slap a round/cone K&N filter on the AFM inlet. I can make up some new brackets to locate the AFM, using the stock bracket mounting points. If I stick with the stock CBV, I'll need to plumb that back in to the TID, as well as the 2 other smaller lines. My options are (1) Find someone to weld some nipples onto the AL section, or (b) Pick up a few of these grommet & nipple things from Verocious Motorsports to add the fittings:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Category/Silicone-Hose-Fittings/Vibrant-Hard-Mount-Vacuum-Line-Fitting
Thoughts? When all this crap is done, hopefully I'll have time to get up to Speed1 for a tuning session to get it all dialed in before DGRR.