Well after a long wait, I got my turbo back from BNR Friday. I think Bryan took good care of me with this and it should be worth the wait. To jog everyone's memory, my turbo was a stock S5 with the BNR stage 1 rebuild treatment that had a premature life - she started smoking heavily after I put about 10K miles on it. Even though the 1 year warranty expired, Bryan agreed to rebuild it again but this time with all new parts and he only charged me the cost of the new parts. So I now have a turbo that is built with all new parts - new turbine wheel/shaft, CHRA housing, compressor wheel and of course all the new bearings, seals & rebuild parts. Another bonus was I got the same larger compressor housing & wheel this time as he puts in the Stage 2 units.
The only downside to this is my "to do" list for Deals Gap has grown substantially longer... The stock TID no longer fits, so I'll have to fab one up, and this most likely means I won't be able to retain the stock air filter box, and I might need to do something about the stock compressor bypass valve (CBV - aka stock version of a BOV) as well, which brings on my questions...
1. I'm running an Rtek 2.x ECU, so that means the AFM needs to stay, and I'm still going to run with stock boost control, so boost pressures will stay within 7.5~8.5 PSI range, but this upgraded compressor side will flow a greater volume of air than what I had. Does this warrant going to an aftermarket BOV, or can I retain the stock CBV that recirculates to the TID? I hope I can retain the stock CBV, although that will slightly complicate the TID plumbing fabrication.
2. If I REALLY need to go aftermarket BOV, what would you guys recommend? Selection criteria is (1) Protect my turbo from compressor surge, and (2) Pick the least obnoxious sounding BOV that meets the #1 criteria. As for plumbing it in, I bought the aluminum charge pipe that Corksport sells, so I figure that I can cut off the CBV nipple on it and find someone to weld the appropriate BOV flange/bung to it to mount up whatever BOV that I buy.
3. On the TID fabrication, the compressor inlet is 3" diameter, and the AFM outlet is about 3-1/16", so 3" silicone will work on both ends. Since I lack welding skills, I figure I'll use a silicone bend from the compressor, to an mandrel bent AL bend, and then a straight silicone coupler to join the AL pipe to the AFM outlet. Since it's an S5, I can just slap a round/cone K&N filter on the AFM inlet. I can make up some new brackets to locate the AFM, using the stock bracket mounting points. If I stick with the stock CBV, I'll need to plumb that back in to the TID, as well as the 2 other smaller lines. My options are (1) Find someone to weld some nipples onto the AL section, or (b) Pick up a few of these grommet & nipple things from Verocious Motorsports to add the fittings:
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...m-Line-Fitting
Thoughts? When all this crap is done, hopefully I'll have time to get up to Speed1 for a tuning session to get it all dialed in before DGRR.
Turbo Inlet Duct fabrication & BOVs
I retained the stock recirculating CBV and the ports for the S5 boost control line and crankcase vent. Starting from the turbo, it's a 3" silicone coupler that connects to a 45* AL mandrel bend. The pipe was a total of 1 foot long, with equal length legs, beaded at both ends. What I had to do was cut about 3" off the turbo side leg. Then I picked up some 3/4" OD AL tubing to make the nipple for the CBV connection, and picked up two 1/4 NPT aluminum bungs and two barb fittings for the 2 hoses. Found a local shop that welded the bungs & pipe nipple to the 45* bend where I indicated, and he also beaded the nipple & cut end of the pipe for me - not bad for $50. Note to self: Learn to weld! To connect the AFM to the AL TID pipe, and get it at an angle that is horizontal, I had a 3" ID 45* silicone bend that I cut most of the legs off on both sides, which gave me about another 20* of bend and took care of the connection on both ends. In retrospect, a hump-hose coupler might be better, but this seems to work fine. I re-purposed the bracket on the bottom of the stock air filter box, and built up the rest of the AFM bracket with some 1" X 1/8" thick AL stock. The new air filter is a K&N #RC-70040, which fits the AFM perfectly, and has more surface area than the stock panel filter, yet is small enough to squeeze into the tight space available.
Linear Mode
