Slave/Master Cylinder / Oil Problem?

retaliate1st · 11-17-2008, 10:03 AM

Ok, I've been searching and I've established that either my slave and/or master cylinder is shot... The clutch pedal sticks to the floor primarily in 1st & reverse. I can pull the pedal back up with my toe but, yeah... There seems to be little to no tension in the clutch pedal It's getting worse and worse.

However, as soon as this started happening, my oil pressure warning light started coming on and continues to do so; mainly when cold. My Autometer oil pressure gauge reads everything is a-ok, but the stock one reads low and light comes on. I've checked my oil like 4 times a day for the last 3 days - and it's topped off.

Do these two have any correlation? wtf rotary? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Brent

11-17-2008, 10:21 AM

I cant see these being related issues AT ALL..

also the stock oil pressure gauge is not that accurate I would go by the autometer gauge and be confident with that over stock any day.

If you need a slave and master let me know I will shoot u a deal.

Signal 2 · 11-17-2008, 10:33 AM

There's a single spade terminal at the stock oil pressure sender that typical gets dirty over time...it's right under the oil filter pedestal. Easy to do, but the senders go bad occasionally too.

Brent · 11-17-2008, 12:57 PM

Are you loosing any clutch/brake fluid?

As for the oil pressure gauge, like signal 2 said... clean the connector as it does get dirty over time. If not, the oil sending unit is somewhere between $60-80 brand new if I remember correctly. I would say it's the connection though since your autometer is still reading a normal pressure.

BTW, aren't you the guy that use to be stationed at Campbell? Aren't you at Irwin now? Good to have you here.

Brent

mazdaman · 11-17-2008, 05:07 PM

if its the master cylinder for the clutch look under the carpet in the driverside floorboard if thats the problem your fluid will be their, had that problem in my 87.

IR Performance · 11-28-2008, 10:03 PM

I would change the master and slave at the same time. Typically when one goes bad, the other will fail shortly after. Also, put in an ss clutch line if you don't already have one. The stock rubber line tends to crack, often under the foam protective sleeve where it is hard to see.

retaliate1st · 11-29-2008, 12:59 AM

i had the slave and master cylinder replaced @ mazdatrix. The whole time after, shifting was kinda rough and then 2 days later while driving, i hit a stop sign and then the car won't go into gear at all. i had to start it in first gear and limp it home, but it wouldn't shift - just got stuck in neutral. when the clutch pedal is depressed there's a strange sound... any ideas anybody?

IR Performance · 11-29-2008, 10:36 AM

Check the clutch rod adjustment. Have someone press the pedal while you look through the access port under the trans to see when the pressure plate disengages.

Signal 2 · 11-29-2008, 04:43 PM

Or a broken clutch fork.

rhackney · 11-29-2008, 07:35 PM

or wedge collar and/or retaining ring

IR Performance · 12-11-2008, 08:23 PM

If its the wedge collar then the clutch wont work at all. Either it holds or it doesn't.

Kwerks · 12-21-2008, 01:41 AM

I had the clutch pedal problem and it was actually the master cyl in my situation...the piston was unable to cope with the new pressure plate on my new clutch. I was tracing the problem and after further analysis the space plate between the slave cyl and the tranny housing has the ability to strip the bolts and one was in my case so I replaced it all. My slave was fine but i chose to replace it too. Be careful if you do replace the slave cyl because some of the mazda oem parts suffer from stripped valves that leak! My 1st one was stripped and I had to send it back to mazda.

best of luck...while your at it you may want to change brakes lines to stainless steel covered lines.

SHPmainMAN · 01-10-2009, 11:15 AM

if you are losing fluid, and you cant find out where, check in the bell housing of the tranny. I couldnt find a leak for the longest time and it was my slave cylinder leaking into the bell housing.

vex · 01-10-2009, 04:49 PM

speaking of which I too seem to be having hydraulic problems now. I think I will be ordering a new master cylinder and slave to replace the them (even though the master cylinder I have is probably at the most 8 months old--was brand new at the time--should I replace the master?). Previous to this I rebuilt the slave and that was a little over a year a go or so, maybe 18 months. I suspect the slave is the problem. I'm leaking fluid, not sure where, and I'm fairly certain that the slave is at fault and leaking into the bell housing.

I have a SS clutch line and the HDSS (Heavy Duty PP and Street/Strip clutch). I wouldn't think that puts too much stress on the hydraulics...

SHPmainMAN · 01-11-2009, 06:02 PM

take the slave cylinder out, and inspect it... i bet you found your problem. a lot of people with the same problem never relate the two for a bit, because they cant find a leak, and then the brake light on the dash comes on... and then they lose their clutch pedal... and all of a sudden theres a small river coming out from the bell housing. Well that's exactly how it happened for me. Get ahold of Ray at malloy mazda. he hooks it up.

11-17-2008, 10:03 AM	#1
retaliate1st The Newbie Join Date: Nov 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 21 Rep Power: 0	Slave/Master Cylinder / Oil Problem? Ok, I've been searching and I've established that either my slave and/or master cylinder is shot... The clutch pedal sticks to the floor primarily in 1st & reverse. I can pull the pedal back up with my toe but, yeah... There seems to be little to no tension in the clutch pedal It's getting worse and worse. However, as soon as this started happening, my oil pressure warning light started coming on and continues to do so; mainly when cold. My Autometer oil pressure gauge reads everything is a-ok, but the stock one reads low and light comes on. I've checked my oil like 4 times a day for the last 3 days - and it's topped off. Do these two have any correlation? wtf rotary? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brent

11-17-2008, 10:33 AM	#3
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West iTrader: (0) Posts: 199 Rep Power: 17	There's a single spade terminal at the stock oil pressure sender that typical gets dirty over time...it's right under the oil filter pedestal. Easy to do, but the senders go bad occasionally too. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD

11-17-2008, 12:57 PM	#4
Brent Sua Sponte Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Killeen, TX iTrader: (4) Posts: 839 Rep Power: 17	Are you loosing any clutch/brake fluid? As for the oil pressure gauge, like signal 2 said... clean the connector as it does get dirty over time. If not, the oil sending unit is somewhere between $60-80 brand new if I remember correctly. I would say it's the connection though since your autometer is still reading a normal pressure. BTW, aren't you the guy that use to be stationed at Campbell? Aren't you at Irwin now? Good to have you here. Brent __________________ Road Atlanta August 2011 NASA TT 1:33 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFY00PAK_Ps Traqmate's video of my car from the 2011 UTCC at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Zcn6...layer_embedded Video of Yellow LS1 FD at NASA TT at VIR http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6k0lJkcwrM

11-28-2008, 10:03 PM	#6
IR Performance Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Metuchen, NJ iTrader: (2) Posts: 249 Rep Power: 17	I would change the master and slave at the same time. Typically when one goes bad, the other will fail shortly after. Also, put in an ss clutch line if you don't already have one. The stock rubber line tends to crack, often under the foam protective sleeve where it is hard to see. __________________ Providing rotary engine rebuilds, porting, turbo installs, parts installations, full maintenance, etc. We work on all cars. www.irperformance.com www.myspace.com/rotaryexperimentseven irperformance@live.com 732-662-1794

11-29-2008, 10:36 AM	#8
IR Performance Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Metuchen, NJ iTrader: (2) Posts: 249 Rep Power: 17	Check the clutch rod adjustment. Have someone press the pedal while you look through the access port under the trans to see when the pressure plate disengages. __________________ Providing rotary engine rebuilds, porting, turbo installs, parts installations, full maintenance, etc. We work on all cars. www.irperformance.com www.myspace.com/rotaryexperimentseven irperformance@live.com 732-662-1794

11-17-2008, 10:21 AM	#2
SpooledupRacing Guest Posts: n/a	I cant see these being related issues AT ALL.. also the stock oil pressure gauge is not that accurate I would go by the autometer gauge and be confident with that over stock any day. If you need a slave and master let me know I will shoot u a deal.

11-17-2008, 05:07 PM	#5
mazdaman The Newbie Join Date: Nov 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0	if its the master cylinder for the clutch look under the carpet in the driverside floorboard if thats the problem your fluid will be their, had that problem in my 87.

11-29-2008, 12:59 AM	#7
retaliate1st The Newbie Join Date: Nov 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 21 Rep Power: 0	i had the slave and master cylinder replaced @ mazdatrix. The whole time after, shifting was kinda rough and then 2 days later while driving, i hit a stop sign and then the car won't go into gear at all. i had to start it in first gear and limp it home, but it wouldn't shift - just got stuck in neutral. when the clutch pedal is depressed there's a strange sound... any ideas anybody?

11-29-2008, 04:43 PM	#9
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West iTrader: (0) Posts: 199 Rep Power: 17	Or a broken clutch fork. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD

11-29-2008, 07:35 PM	#10
rhackney The Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 3 Rep Power: 0	or wedge collar and/or retaining ring

12-11-2008, 08:23 PM	#11
IR Performance Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Metuchen, NJ iTrader: (2) Posts: 249 Rep Power: 17	If its the wedge collar then the clutch wont work at all. Either it holds or it doesn't. __________________ Providing rotary engine rebuilds, porting, turbo installs, parts installations, full maintenance, etc. We work on all cars. www.irperformance.com www.myspace.com/rotaryexperimentseven irperformance@live.com 732-662-1794

12-21-2008, 01:41 AM	#12
Kwerks FD Spirit Join Date: Dec 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 29 Rep Power: 0	I had the clutch pedal problem and it was actually the master cyl in my situation...the piston was unable to cope with the new pressure plate on my new clutch. I was tracing the problem and after further analysis the space plate between the slave cyl and the tranny housing has the ability to strip the bolts and one was in my case so I replaced it all. My slave was fine but i chose to replace it too. Be careful if you do replace the slave cyl because some of the mazda oem parts suffer from stripped valves that leak! My 1st one was stripped and I had to send it back to mazda. best of luck...while your at it you may want to change brakes lines to stainless steel covered lines. __________________ Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you.

01-10-2009, 11:15 AM	#13
SHPmainMAN SHP Motorsports Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Michigan iTrader: (2) Posts: 256 Rep Power: 17	if you are losing fluid, and you cant find out where, check in the bell housing of the tranny. I couldnt find a leak for the longest time and it was my slave cylinder leaking into the bell housing. __________________ SEIBON Summer Special For FD and RX8 1990 Canadian GXL-TII Raffle. Vote NOW!!

01-10-2009, 04:49 PM	#14
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	speaking of which I too seem to be having hydraulic problems now. I think I will be ordering a new master cylinder and slave to replace the them (even though the master cylinder I have is probably at the most 8 months old--was brand new at the time--should I replace the master?). Previous to this I rebuilt the slave and that was a little over a year a go or so, maybe 18 months. I suspect the slave is the problem. I'm leaking fluid, not sure where, and I'm fairly certain that the slave is at fault and leaking into the bell housing. I have a SS clutch line and the HDSS (Heavy Duty PP and Street/Strip clutch). I wouldn't think that puts too much stress on the hydraulics... __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

01-11-2009, 06:02 PM	#15
SHPmainMAN SHP Motorsports Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Michigan iTrader: (2) Posts: 256 Rep Power: 17	take the slave cylinder out, and inspect it... i bet you found your problem. a lot of people with the same problem never relate the two for a bit, because they cant find a leak, and then the brake light on the dash comes on... and then they lose their clutch pedal... and all of a sudden theres a small river coming out from the bell housing. Well that's exactly how it happened for me. Get ahold of Ray at malloy mazda. he hooks it up. __________________ SEIBON Summer Special For FD and RX8 1990 Canadian GXL-TII Raffle. Vote NOW!!