1980 rx7 DLIDFIS(gm igniters) install with pics.

warwickben · 08-17-2008, 03:17 PM

hey guys i figured id help you all out who have a 1980 rx7 or 1980 dizzy and want to convert to DLIDFIS. my buddy helped me out last night and i worked the kinks out to get it right.

we used this for most of the wiring setup.

now the steps. this is for a 1980 sa with the igniter's mounted on the strut tower with the fuse block.(fuse able links)

1st
remove the battery cable (-)

2nd
then remove the wires on the coils and remove them.
remove the coil mounting bracket thats still in the car, your going to re use this.

3rd
now follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the igniter box.
it should end with 2 plugs. one has 6 inputs and 1 has 2. once you discounted
those remove the fuse able links box from the igniter bracket, and let it dangle. then remove the igniter bracket and keep it for down the road just say you want to go back. then you can attach the fuseable link box on the side of the strut tower with one of the stock bolts.
i replaced the wire type links with plastic box typ. this pic shows where i mounted it in a stock hole. its hard to tell in the photo because of the light but the fuse box thing with the links is dead center.

thats the end of what you should have to remove.
you'll be left with 2 black/white wires(keyed power wires from the battery) and one yellowish one which is the tach. and 2 plugs that the igniter box plugged in to.

now for the wiring job.
the bigger plug your left with is where you'll run the green and red wires to the igniters. this is the pic from the fsm.

this pic messed me and my buddy up and cause us real problems which ill get in to. you can use that to know which tabs to use for leading and which to use for trailing.
you can see in this pic i swapped red for green/green for red. this fix the problems i had. if you read my other thread you will know why i did this.

from this point you would wire as the first pic says to. only thing we did different is we wired one of the black/white keyed power wires to the coils on the + side and the other black/white wires to all the b's on the igniters. and the yellow tack wire to the trailing coil - side.

how i mounted my coils.

i cut a plate of aluminum in the shape of a rotor, and cut 3 holes in it to drop the coils in. next i trace the hole patter on a paper to make a template and cut another plate. i can't describe the shape of this plate but the pic will explain. i drilled a hole in both plates, in the center of the 3 coils.
next i bent a a 1.5 x 1/8 x 6 or so inches in the shape of a L. i used the stock igniter bracket to mark the holes in the L shape bracket to mount to the strut tower. then i welded a gusset in the 90 bend to make it stiffer. this bracket holds the rotor shape coil bracket up.the hole i drilled in the center of the rotor shape plates act as the hold down and mounts to the L bracket. it makes it look like the coils and rotor shape bracket are floating. in the pic you can see part of the l shape bracket.

now for the igniters mounting. i removed the stock coil bracket(lower one thats bolted to the car. i laid it on top of the aluminum plate i had and put a center punch thru the bolt hole the was used to tighten the coils down. then i drilled that hole. then all the holes for the igniters.

and this is what i got.

list of parts i had to buy.
1 extra coil
3 gm igniters.
wire and quick connects.
1 bolt to mount the coil holder to the L shape bracket.
and some scrap metal i took from the scarp bin from work.

warwickben · 08-17-2008, 03:27 PM

last night my car would not idle. i had to keep it over 1.5k and the coil's +/- were arcing to the center plug. after reading jeff's response this mourning i swaped the red to green wires on the plug connector. the pic from the fsm is how i had it wired, then the pic of the plug shows how i swapped the red for green/ green for red. the fsm pic is good to tell you which is for leading which is for trailing and thats it. after i did that i greased up the coil/spark wires.

i started the car no more arcing and it idles better then before.
when i went to get gas, a ex spooked me when i was about to pull away from the pump. i took my foot off the clutch and with no gas my car didnt stall and started moving in 1st gear. at the first line under 1k in the tachometer. i thought only diesel cars could do this lol.

i guess thats proof DLIDFIS is a stronger spark.

Rogue_Wulff · 08-17-2008, 03:30 PM

Relocate the trailing coil wire and plug wires to the leading plugs on the dizzy cap.
My GSL-SE has had that same system used on it, and it seems to work great.

BTW, I know the guy who originally published that pic (Tulsa Turbo). Great guy.

warwickben · 08-17-2008, 03:34 PM

thanks i forgot to do that, i don't under stand how that works lol but i know it does.my buddy who helped wire(who doesn't know alot about rotarys) it explained it to me. but i dont fully get how that works. now i just need to find caps for the dizzy.

tell me what you think about my coil bracket. i think its sweet that i used all stock hard ware and only had to buy 1 bolt/ nut. and the fact that i didnt have to mod any thing simple unplug and run new wires.

Rogue_Wulff · 08-17-2008, 03:39 PM

The reason for moving the trailing wires to the leading locations on the cap, is so the fire doesn't have to jump 2 gaps before getting to the plugs. Stronger current to trailing plugs.
I like how it turned out. I have been debating wiring up a similar system for my 12A car, using the 1980 dizzy I have in my collection of spare parts.

warwickben · 08-17-2008, 03:45 PM

well i noticed it runs better and starts better ect. i know its not like you gain 100 hp mod but all around it seems to make it run a bit better.

Rogue_Wulff · 08-17-2008, 03:47 PM

My SE seems to run quite well with this ignition. Of course, having the RB intake and exhaust, with an Edelbrock 600 doesn't hurt, either......

warwickben · 08-17-2008, 03:55 PM

i have the RB exhaust.
i want to go turbo during the winter and still trying to figure out what carb to go with.
i was thinking the RB but i would need to send it away to get mod for turbo. or i could get a side draft setup, but ive been told there harder to tune.

Rogue_Wulff · 08-17-2008, 04:05 PM

Hmmmm, I wonder how much work would be needed to boost prep an Edelbrock.......
I hate holley carbs. I've only had the one edelbrock, but I love it. Super simple design.

warwickben · 08-17-2008, 04:22 PM

its not that hard from what i read.
this guide is for a dp holley but you should be able to make it work for your carb.
http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html

the rb intake kit for a stock port 12a uses a 465 cfm carb. i dont know a whole lot about carbs, but do you think i could use that guide to mod the rb intake kit.

i havea garrett to4b sitting next to my pc i want to use real bad. needs a rebuild, but cant complain about it,got it for 100$ plus shipping.

Rogue_Wulff · 08-17-2008, 07:10 PM

I'm sure someone with a bit of carb knowledge could easily mod a holley for boost. I have read that guide before. I have a holley 650 DP sitting here that I could prolly make work by getting the fuel inlet rail to fit the DP.
I sure wouldn't buy the full RB intake/carb setup. The intake is only $250 new. That means they are charging a premium price for the holley, just because they have modded it. I bet 1/2 the mods they do, would have to be redone in the process of trying to boost prep the carb. Besides, they use a vacuum secondary carb, which I doubt would be much good in a blow thru turbo setup.
I'm not that interested in trying to do a blow thru on my 12A, but I have considered it on the SE. A 6 port 13B, with 3mm apex seals already in place, should make a good base for a blow thru boosted monster.
Mod the holley DP and go blow thru on the SE, then get a RB intake for the 12A and place the edelbrock on it. Sounds like a good idea to me....... Maybe I'll get around to doing some/all of that, one of these days.
In the meantime, I'm still chasing bugs out of the DLIDFIS. I think I have a GM ignitor flaking out, like that would surprise me. When all 4 plugs are firing, it sounds mean as hell. When one (or more) plug(s) cut out, it sounds like pure crap. From BRAP to CRAP and back again. I'd pull my hair out, if I hadn't already cut it all off.

warwickben · 08-18-2008, 03:44 AM

what dizzy do you have with that setup?

Rogue_Wulff · 08-18-2008, 06:57 AM

The stock SE dizzy.

Whizbang · 09-04-2008, 12:25 PM

is this basically the same setup for any firs generation?

Rogue_Wulff · 09-04-2008, 12:38 PM

Yes. The 1980 dizzy requires a slightly different wiring setup, but any 81-85 dizzy can be wired exactly as the diagram shows.
This same setup can be used on older point ignition cars, but the dizzy must be swapped, as well as the coils.

08-17-2008, 03:17 PM	#1
warwickben sa rat rod Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: tewksbury ma Posts: 408 Rep Power: 18	1980 rx7 DLIDFIS(gm igniters) install with pics. hey guys i figured id help you all out who have a 1980 rx7 or 1980 dizzy and want to convert to DLIDFIS. my buddy helped me out last night and i worked the kinks out to get it right. we used this for most of the wiring setup. now the steps. this is for a 1980 sa with the igniter's mounted on the strut tower with the fuse block.(fuse able links) 1st remove the battery cable (-) 2nd then remove the wires on the coils and remove them. remove the coil mounting bracket thats still in the car, your going to re use this. 3rd now follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the igniter box. it should end with 2 plugs. one has 6 inputs and 1 has 2. once you discounted those remove the fuse able links box from the igniter bracket, and let it dangle. then remove the igniter bracket and keep it for down the road just say you want to go back. then you can attach the fuseable link box on the side of the strut tower with one of the stock bolts. i replaced the wire type links with plastic box typ. this pic shows where i mounted it in a stock hole. its hard to tell in the photo because of the light but the fuse box thing with the links is dead center. thats the end of what you should have to remove. you'll be left with 2 black/white wires(keyed power wires from the battery) and one yellowish one which is the tach. and 2 plugs that the igniter box plugged in to. now for the wiring job. the bigger plug your left with is where you'll run the green and red wires to the igniters. this is the pic from the fsm. this pic messed me and my buddy up and cause us real problems which ill get in to. you can use that to know which tabs to use for leading and which to use for trailing. you can see in this pic i swapped red for green/green for red. this fix the problems i had. if you read my other thread you will know why i did this. from this point you would wire as the first pic says to. only thing we did different is we wired one of the black/white keyed power wires to the coils on the + side and the other black/white wires to all the b's on the igniters. and the yellow tack wire to the trailing coil - side. how i mounted my coils. i cut a plate of aluminum in the shape of a rotor, and cut 3 holes in it to drop the coils in. next i trace the hole patter on a paper to make a template and cut another plate. i can't describe the shape of this plate but the pic will explain. i drilled a hole in both plates, in the center of the 3 coils. next i bent a a 1.5 x 1/8 x 6 or so inches in the shape of a L. i used the stock igniter bracket to mark the holes in the L shape bracket to mount to the strut tower. then i welded a gusset in the 90 bend to make it stiffer. this bracket holds the rotor shape coil bracket up.the hole i drilled in the center of the rotor shape plates act as the hold down and mounts to the L bracket. it makes it look like the coils and rotor shape bracket are floating. in the pic you can see part of the l shape bracket. now for the igniters mounting. i removed the stock coil bracket(lower one thats bolted to the car. i laid it on top of the aluminum plate i had and put a center punch thru the bolt hole the was used to tighten the coils down. then i drilled that hole. then all the holes for the igniters. and this is what i got. list of parts i had to buy. 1 extra coil 3 gm igniters. wire and quick connects. 1 bolt to mount the coil holder to the L shape bracket. and some scrap metal i took from the scarp bin from work. __________________ Last edited by warwickben; 08-17-2008 at 03:19 PM.

08-17-2008, 03:27 PM	#2
warwickben sa rat rod Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: tewksbury ma Posts: 408 Rep Power: 18	last night my car would not idle. i had to keep it over 1.5k and the coil's +/- were arcing to the center plug. after reading jeff's response this mourning i swaped the red to green wires on the plug connector. the pic from the fsm is how i had it wired, then the pic of the plug shows how i swapped the red for green/ green for red. the fsm pic is good to tell you which is for leading which is for trailing and thats it. after i did that i greased up the coil/spark wires. i started the car no more arcing and it idles better then before. when i went to get gas, a ex spooked me when i was about to pull away from the pump. i took my foot off the clutch and with no gas my car didnt stall and started moving in 1st gear. at the first line under 1k in the tachometer. i thought only diesel cars could do this lol. i guess thats proof DLIDFIS is a stronger spark. __________________ Last edited by warwickben; 08-17-2008 at 03:30 PM.

08-17-2008, 03:34 PM	#4
warwickben sa rat rod Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: tewksbury ma Posts: 408 Rep Power: 18	thanks i forgot to do that, i don't under stand how that works lol but i know it does.my buddy who helped wire(who doesn't know alot about rotarys) it explained it to me. but i dont fully get how that works. now i just need to find caps for the dizzy. tell me what you think about my coil bracket. i think its sweet that i used all stock hard ware and only had to buy 1 bolt/ nut. and the fact that i didnt have to mod any thing simple unplug and run new wires. __________________

08-17-2008, 03:39 PM	#5
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	The reason for moving the trailing wires to the leading locations on the cap, is so the fire doesn't have to jump 2 gaps before getting to the plugs. Stronger current to trailing plugs. I like how it turned out. I have been debating wiring up a similar system for my 12A car, using the 1980 dizzy I have in my collection of spare parts. Last edited by Rogue_Wulff; 08-17-2008 at 03:46 PM.

08-17-2008, 03:45 PM	#6
warwickben sa rat rod Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: tewksbury ma Posts: 408 Rep Power: 18	well i noticed it runs better and starts better ect. i know its not like you gain 100 hp mod but all around it seems to make it run a bit better. __________________

08-17-2008, 03:30 PM	#3
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	Relocate the trailing coil wire and plug wires to the leading plugs on the dizzy cap. My GSL-SE has had that same system used on it, and it seems to work great. BTW, I know the guy who originally published that pic (Tulsa Turbo). Great guy.

08-17-2008, 03:47 PM	#7
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	My SE seems to run quite well with this ignition. Of course, having the RB intake and exhaust, with an Edelbrock 600 doesn't hurt, either......

08-17-2008, 03:55 PM	#8
warwickben sa rat rod Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: tewksbury ma Posts: 408 Rep Power: 18	i have the RB exhaust. i want to go turbo during the winter and still trying to figure out what carb to go with. i was thinking the RB but i would need to send it away to get mod for turbo. or i could get a side draft setup, but ive been told there harder to tune. __________________

08-17-2008, 04:05 PM	#9
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	Hmmmm, I wonder how much work would be needed to boost prep an Edelbrock....... I hate holley carbs. I've only had the one edelbrock, but I love it. Super simple design.

08-17-2008, 04:22 PM	#10
warwickben sa rat rod Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: tewksbury ma Posts: 408 Rep Power: 18	its not that hard from what i read. this guide is for a dp holley but you should be able to make it work for your carb. http://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html the rb intake kit for a stock port 12a uses a 465 cfm carb. i dont know a whole lot about carbs, but do you think i could use that guide to mod the rb intake kit. i havea garrett to4b sitting next to my pc i want to use real bad. needs a rebuild, but cant complain about it,got it for 100$ plus shipping. __________________ Last edited by warwickben; 08-17-2008 at 04:25 PM.

08-17-2008, 07:10 PM	#11
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	I'm sure someone with a bit of carb knowledge could easily mod a holley for boost. I have read that guide before. I have a holley 650 DP sitting here that I could prolly make work by getting the fuel inlet rail to fit the DP. I sure wouldn't buy the full RB intake/carb setup. The intake is only $250 new. That means they are charging a premium price for the holley, just because they have modded it. I bet 1/2 the mods they do, would have to be redone in the process of trying to boost prep the carb. Besides, they use a vacuum secondary carb, which I doubt would be much good in a blow thru turbo setup. I'm not that interested in trying to do a blow thru on my 12A, but I have considered it on the SE. A 6 port 13B, with 3mm apex seals already in place, should make a good base for a blow thru boosted monster. Mod the holley DP and go blow thru on the SE, then get a RB intake for the 12A and place the edelbrock on it. Sounds like a good idea to me....... Maybe I'll get around to doing some/all of that, one of these days. In the meantime, I'm still chasing bugs out of the DLIDFIS. I think I have a GM ignitor flaking out, like that would surprise me. When all 4 plugs are firing, it sounds mean as hell. When one (or more) plug(s) cut out, it sounds like pure crap. From BRAP to CRAP and back again. I'd pull my hair out, if I hadn't already cut it all off.

08-18-2008, 03:44 AM	#12
warwickben sa rat rod Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: tewksbury ma Posts: 408 Rep Power: 18	what dizzy do you have with that setup? __________________

08-18-2008, 06:57 AM	#13
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	The stock SE dizzy.

09-04-2008, 12:25 PM	#14
Whizbang Respecognize! Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Δx = ħ/2Δp Posts: 3,190 Rep Power: 20	is this basically the same setup for any firs generation? __________________ For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage \| Facebook

09-04-2008, 12:38 PM	#15
Rogue_Wulff Non Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 310 Rep Power: 17	Yes. The 1980 dizzy requires a slightly different wiring setup, but any 81-85 dizzy can be wired exactly as the diagram shows. This same setup can be used on older point ignition cars, but the dizzy must be swapped, as well as the coils.