broken manifold stud

Rotary_Rocket_87 · 06-24-2008, 07:11 AM

Well, I just took my turbo off so I could replace the gaskets and fix a leak. everything came apart well, but when I got to the manifold i realized that someone has previously taken it off and they broke the top stud on the rear rotor housing, and never fixed it.

So I try and use an easy-out to pull the broken stud out and as soon as the stud started to turn the easy out broke. So now I have a piece of chrome-vanadium steel stuck in there and I can't drill through it. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can do?

I talked to one guy about it and he said I can take a small punch and slowly break apart the easy-out, then just drill and tap the rest of the bolt out.

WE3RX7 · 06-24-2008, 03:47 PM

I'm not sure how far in its stuck, but if you do use the punch you may be able hit the broken stud at an angle and "spin" it out enough to get some vice grips or something on it and take it the rest of the way out.

If not, chipping it out will probably work too - but take a while...

Do you have access to a welder or torch?

djmtsu · 06-24-2008, 05:53 PM

Since the ez out is in there too, try to get someone who is GOOD at welding to tack a nut onto whats there, and then use heat and PB Blaster to get that bitch out!

Phoenix7 · 06-24-2008, 05:58 PM

http://www.4grabit.com/Default.asp?g...d8ivwew&bhcp=1

would this help? I've always wanted to know if it works like they say.

Rotary_Rocket_87 · 06-24-2008, 06:34 PM

the stud was broken just short of having any part of it exposed. we have been chiseling at it with punches, but no luck. I should have just drilled it out and retapped it but you know what they say about hindsight. Please keep the ideas coming.

My5ABaby · 06-24-2008, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenix7

http://www.4grabit.com/Default.asp?g...d8ivwew&bhcp=1

would this help? I've always wanted to know if it works like they say.

With that background music, I think I HAVE to buy it.

Phoenix7 · 06-24-2008, 07:10 PM

No sound card on the work computer so I didn't hear the music. Was it the McGyver theme?

Rotary_Rocket_87 · 06-24-2008, 09:56 PM

Yeah, that grabit thing looks like it works well if the fastener isn't siezed, but I doubt it would handle the torque it takes to remove a steel bolt from aluminum.

Phoenix7 · 06-24-2008, 10:10 PM

maybe you're right.

WE3RX7 · 06-25-2008, 11:18 AM

The welding a nut to the end of it was my other thought...

Other solutions I could think of dont apply with the engine being assembled and in the car...

Maybe you can find an even stronger drill bit? lol...

Rotary_Rocket_87 · 06-25-2008, 02:41 PM

yeah i found a carbide tipped bit that i am going to try tonight

06-24-2008, 07:11 AM	#1
Rotary_Rocket_87 2nd Generation Freak Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Chuck Vegas, NH iTrader: (0) Posts: 64 Rep Power: 17	broken manifold stud Well, I just took my turbo off so I could replace the gaskets and fix a leak. everything came apart well, but when I got to the manifold i realized that someone has previously taken it off and they broke the top stud on the rear rotor housing, and never fixed it. So I try and use an easy-out to pull the broken stud out and as soon as the stud started to turn the easy out broke. So now I have a piece of chrome-vanadium steel stuck in there and I can't drill through it. Does anyone have any suggestions for what I can do? I talked to one guy about it and he said I can take a small punch and slowly break apart the easy-out, then just drill and tap the rest of the bolt out. __________________ '87 TII- full emissions removal, a/c removed, FPD removed, dual 12" e-fans, Rotary Performance FCD, ACT unsprung 6 puck w/ Xtreme PP, custom open 2.5 inch exhaust, custom clutch pivot ball, K&N cone filter, TB mod, RB downpipe, motor blown 8/7/09 '94 Mazda B4000- POS beater truck, stock "The easiest way to fail is to never try." - Me

06-24-2008, 05:53 PM	#3
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Since the ez out is in there too, try to get someone who is GOOD at welding to tack a nut onto whats there, and then use heat and PB Blaster to get that bitch out! __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

06-24-2008, 06:34 PM	#5
Rotary_Rocket_87 2nd Generation Freak Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Chuck Vegas, NH iTrader: (0) Posts: 64 Rep Power: 17	the stud was broken just short of having any part of it exposed. we have been chiseling at it with punches, but no luck. I should have just drilled it out and retapped it but you know what they say about hindsight. Please keep the ideas coming. __________________ '87 TII- full emissions removal, a/c removed, FPD removed, dual 12" e-fans, Rotary Performance FCD, ACT unsprung 6 puck w/ Xtreme PP, custom open 2.5 inch exhaust, custom clutch pivot ball, K&N cone filter, TB mod, RB downpipe, motor blown 8/7/09 '94 Mazda B4000- POS beater truck, stock "The easiest way to fail is to never try." - Me

06-24-2008, 09:56 PM	#8
Rotary_Rocket_87 2nd Generation Freak Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Chuck Vegas, NH iTrader: (0) Posts: 64 Rep Power: 17	Yeah, that grabit thing looks like it works well if the fastener isn't siezed, but I doubt it would handle the torque it takes to remove a steel bolt from aluminum. __________________ '87 TII- full emissions removal, a/c removed, FPD removed, dual 12" e-fans, Rotary Performance FCD, ACT unsprung 6 puck w/ Xtreme PP, custom open 2.5 inch exhaust, custom clutch pivot ball, K&N cone filter, TB mod, RB downpipe, motor blown 8/7/09 '94 Mazda B4000- POS beater truck, stock "The easiest way to fail is to never try." - Me

06-25-2008, 02:41 PM	#11
Rotary_Rocket_87 2nd Generation Freak Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Chuck Vegas, NH iTrader: (0) Posts: 64 Rep Power: 17	yeah i found a carbide tipped bit that i am going to try tonight __________________ '87 TII- full emissions removal, a/c removed, FPD removed, dual 12" e-fans, Rotary Performance FCD, ACT unsprung 6 puck w/ Xtreme PP, custom open 2.5 inch exhaust, custom clutch pivot ball, K&N cone filter, TB mod, RB downpipe, motor blown 8/7/09 '94 Mazda B4000- POS beater truck, stock "The easiest way to fail is to never try." - Me

06-24-2008, 03:47 PM	#2
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	I'm not sure how far in its stuck, but if you do use the punch you may be able hit the broken stud at an angle and "spin" it out enough to get some vice grips or something on it and take it the rest of the way out. If not, chipping it out will probably work too - but take a while... Do you have access to a welder or torch?

06-25-2008, 11:18 AM	#10
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	The welding a nut to the end of it was my other thought... Other solutions I could think of dont apply with the engine being assembled and in the car... Maybe you can find an even stronger drill bit? lol...