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| RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. | 
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			 Rotary Fan in Training 
			
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2008 
				Location: Pittsburgh 
				
				
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				Fuel pump relay and cutoff switch question
			 
			
			
			Id like to put a relay and cutoff switch in for my fuel pump and bypass the factory setup. Anyone done this or had any problems with a setup like that? Im wondering what other circuits mite be affected if I do this. I didnt see anything else in the diagrams that would.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			 rotors excite me 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Mar 2008 
				Location: Iowa 
				
				
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			You don't even need a relay, just a switch.  Most people install the wiring near the fuel pump plug right next to the steering column under the dash.  Make sure you solder your connections, don't put it where it could short out, and it should work fine.  I don't remember exactly which wire to use, but I'm sure someone knows or maybe rotorwiki has it.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. ![]() ![]() '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust ![]() rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote: 
	
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		#3 | 
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			 Rotary Fan in Training 
			
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2008 
				Location: Pittsburgh 
				
				
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			Im going to go from an Ignition 1 (Hot in start and run) to a switch then to the blue wires to the fuel pump. Just seening if anyone had any issues with that setup.  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	  Thx Ender.
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		#4 | |
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			 rotors excite me 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Mar 2008 
				Location: Iowa 
				
				
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			Now that I've thought about it more I think the stock wiring has a relay for the pump already, so the best thing to do is to tap into the relay ground and not directly into the power or ground the pump uses.  That way you aren't relying on the switch to hold up to the power the pump draws, just the minimal power it requires to keep the relay closed.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
	He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. ![]() ![]() '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust ![]() rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote: 
	
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		#5 | 
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			 Sigh..... 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Feb 2008 
				Location: Murfreesboro, TN 
				
				
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	1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."  | 
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		#6 | 
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			 Rotary Fan in Training 
			
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2008 
				Location: Pittsburgh 
				
				
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			Yeah. I read that stuff. My problem is that I am not getting the pump to power up. I get power back there with a jumper, but not from the stock relay. Im sick of screwing around with it, and Figured that I would UPGRADE the setup with a new relay and a switch to control the relay. That way, the switch itself is not suypplying direct power to the pump. I never was a fan of the stock setup and seeing as how this is more of a drift/time attack car and not daily driven, I see no issues with this setup. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	Just wanted to pick some other FC heads brains and see whats up.  | 
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		#7 | |
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			 rotors excite me 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Mar 2008 
				Location: Iowa 
				
				
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			The stock wiring uses a resistor relay circuit that often degrades (I think it's the ground(s) that go bad in time) and there are writeups on how to rewire it (I swear Aaron Cake has one but I can't find it atm).  You still use the stock pieces, but you hook it up a little differently so it's more reliable.  I don't recall exactly because my fuel pump still gets the proper voltage at all times, so I haven't rewired it.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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	He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. ![]() ![]() '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust ![]() rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote: 
	
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		#8 | |
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			 rotors excite me 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Mar 2008 
				Location: Iowa 
				
				
					Posts: 372
				 
				
				
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			Ah, here's one.  I haven't read it all the way through, but I think I've seen it before and it appears that he's thorough, which is always helpful. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/rewire.htm 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
	He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. ![]() ![]() '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust ![]() rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote: 
	
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		#9 | 
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			 Pirate 
			
			
			
				
			
			Join Date: Mar 2008 
				Location: Central IL 
				
				
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			Hey guys, I was wondering about doing the fuel pump re-wire as well. It's not that I NEED to do it, I dont think, but I want my car to run top notch. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			I deleted this stuff so far from the rear wiring harness that has plugs at the driver's side kick panel: Antenna and all wires Convetible top motors and all wiring headrest speakers, contoll, amp box, and all wires I have only the fuel pump, tail light, seat belt light, and hand brake wiring going up to the plugs at this time. HOWEVER, there are these two relays??? that I am still confused about, so I didnt take them out. My wiring deletes were VERY through and proffesionally done btw, so dont worry about me cutting the wrong wires off, ok? These are the culprits: ![]() what are these, anyway? 
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			Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 05-26-2008 at 12:24 AM.  | 
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		#10 | 
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			 Rotary Fanatic 
			
			
			
			Join Date: Apr 2008 
				Location: Louisville, KY 
				
				
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			I'm not sure..... 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			But if you're going to run a new fuel pump relay, you'll want the activation wire to come off of the ECU harness, so if you wreck fuel doesnt continue to flow out of the car while youre passed out ignite and burn you alive. 
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	My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary ![]()  
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		#11 | 
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			 Rotary Fan in Training 
			
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2008 
				Location: Pittsburgh 
				
				
					Posts: 81
				 
				
				
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			Max. The Green one is the power door lock relay and the black one is the Rear window defroster. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Monkay. I didnt even think of that! I got some Ford inertia switches @ work that do the same thing in an accident I will wire in. EIDT: I got it wired up, but am now looking at changing the setup to include some safety items to shut the fuel off in case of accident. Also looking into just changing out the relay/resistor pack with a regular relay and modifying the wiring there. More to come. Last edited by DriftingFC; 05-26-2008 at 05:49 PM. Reason: changes made.  | 
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		#12 | 
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			 Rotary Fan in Training 
			
			
			
			Join Date: Feb 2008 
				Location: Pittsburgh 
				
				
					Posts: 81
				 
				
				
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			WoW. I just read the how to on 1300cc.com and I am dumbfounded. The guy used speaker wires????? Ran them through the door jam???? Jezus!!!!! Talk about an uber unsafe way to wire up fuel pump!!!!!
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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