rebuild first start, CEL 5 and 25, smoke from turbo side

a7xh7 · 04-24-2008, 01:55 AM

got my rebuild started for the first time today

. but 2 current codes im working on:

05 - Knock Sensor
25 - Solenoid (Pressure Regulator Control)

had a 16- EGR Valve that i already figured out (loose connector)

any common wiring problem that can contribute to both 05 and 25? i already reset the ECU to see if they would go away on their own but no. checked the connection on the knock sensor.. looks good. checking solenoid will have to wait until tomorrow morning.

also, i have a exhaust leak from around the turbos/dp that i had before the rebuild.. and has not gone away. not sure where it could b from.

a7xh7 · 04-24-2008, 03:55 AM

figured out all the CEL codes. fixed.

now about that leak

SPICcnmFD · 04-24-2008, 07:30 AM

Is it a bad leak?? Might want to make sure the surfaces are good and clean. sometimes the old gaskets can leave some crud on there.

tom93r1 · 04-24-2008, 10:48 AM

Did you replace the the gaskets all the way from housings to downpipe?

a7xh7 · 04-24-2008, 01:28 PM

did not change the housing to manifold gaskets.. those were in extremely good condition. also did not change the smaller manifold to turbo. downpipe i have visually checked and no leaks there.

it looks like a bad leak due to the rebuild smoke at the moment, but in the past honestly the only times i noticed it were during deflood when a few wisps of white exhaust would float up from the area.

i guess maybe this is where i should have spent the extra cash and bought new gaskets, not sure they looked pristine and i had them cleaned off pretty good

David Jerome · 04-24-2008, 01:38 PM

You are going to see a lot of smoke and steam from the turbo area of the engine bay on a new install. This is grease from your hands and any bolt lubricant burning off of the turbos. It is extremely common and should clear up within 30 mins of the car idling or within a 10 min drive if you take it around the block.

David

Signal 2 · 04-24-2008, 06:37 PM

Just curious, what did you get figured out on the CEL codes?

+1 on burning off the anti-seize etc. It actually took me an hour or better of run time before the clouds began to break up and the smell went away. But that included hi-temp paint on the DP and heat sheilds, and new header wrap. Keep the windows up on your car and the HVAC fans off.

a7xh7 · 04-24-2008, 07:34 PM

CEL pointed out some of my mistakes:

egr wasn't plugged in correctly.
solenoid plug was loose
knock sensor was plugged into the power steering female end

so.. i learned not to do engine work when im tired.. most of those wiring points i did previously at 4 or 5am in the morning when i did my marathon assembly of the engine bay.

hopefully the smoke will clear, didn't run the car today yet. thanks for the encouragement

a7xh7 · 04-25-2008, 05:06 PM

smoke cleared.. downpipe wrap.. . the car is very easy to start and idles at 1.5k

more issues with the car i get a weird squeal/chirp after i let go from a quick rev to 2k from 1.5k(idle speed). not a bov not sure what it is? sound happens only if i release throttle quickly. not sure where the sound is originating from. -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrvhsBGqB9Q

the cooling system is gurgling like CRAZY now sitting in the garage (car is off). a lot of the sound seems to be coming from the ast/filler neck area.. and the block? -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22jHimAIPsU

clutch has a ton of free play and it is sometimes hard to shift into 1st and R gears when engine is on. other times it is Ok but definitely not normal. i had issues with bleeding.. where it reached a constant feel but still have a lot of play, still not sure what to do with this.

did manual rack conversion and the steering wheel alignment is WAY off. i'll adjust that soon.

Signal 2 · 04-25-2008, 05:43 PM

*For the scraping sounds, maybe double check all the heatshield fasteners? Just first thing that came to mind.
*Gurgling common from air still in the system. When it cools, burp (squeeze) the upper radiator hose with the filler cap off and add coolant as needed. Top off AST too.
*For whatever reason, I've had issues getting all the air out of my slave in the past.
Seemed like it took forever. Speedbleeder or Motive kit would probably make it alot easier.

a7xh7 · 04-25-2008, 06:42 PM

don't think its the heat shields, i'll poke around though. seems to me more like air whistling or something moving quickly that is rubbing(??) not sure how to describe.

i'll try the burping for the coolant, sounds like a good plan

thanks

i was looking into speed bleeder/motive recently. maybe its finally time to get one.

David Jerome · 04-25-2008, 07:01 PM

Check the ISC for the squeeling noise, disconnect it and see if that helps. When they start to go bad they make all kinds of cool noises.

a7xh7 · 04-26-2008, 07:43 PM

started it up to do a coolant burp but didn't know if it was safe to disconnect the isc while it was running. pulling on the throttle cable from underhood i was able to listen a bit better , sounds like rear of engine possibly under uim(so isc could def b it).

David Jerome · 04-27-2008, 03:41 PM

It is ok to disconnect it while it is running, if the car is already idling under 1000 rpms I wouldnt do it as it will probably stall and foul out the plugs. I always adjust the idle screw before disconnect to give my self a buffer so that the rpms wont drop to low.

a7xh7 · 04-30-2008, 11:03 PM

well it wasn't the isc.

then i listened some more today, and my roommate agreed.. turboside... hmm. so im gonna have to narrow it down from that side of the uim/lim to the turbo

still noticing that if i rev up slow and down slow , no squeek. any quick release or rev and it will. oh and its idling at 1.5k is that just normal for rebuild or is high idle possibly related to this issue?

04-24-2008, 01:55 AM	#1
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	rebuild first start, CEL 5 and 25, smoke from turbo side got my rebuild started for the first time today . but 2 current codes im working on: 05 - Knock Sensor 25 - Solenoid (Pressure Regulator Control) had a 16- EGR Valve that i already figured out (loose connector) any common wiring problem that can contribute to both 05 and 25? i already reset the ECU to see if they would go away on their own but no. checked the connection on the knock sensor.. looks good. checking solenoid will have to wait until tomorrow morning. also, i have a exhaust leak from around the turbos/dp that i had before the rebuild.. and has not gone away. not sure where it could b from. __________________ "sevens_ix" Last edited by a7xh7; 04-24-2008 at 01:57 AM.

04-24-2008, 03:55 AM	#2
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	figured out all the CEL codes. fixed. now about that leak __________________ "sevens_ix" Last edited by a7xh7; 04-24-2008 at 04:51 AM.

04-24-2008, 07:30 AM	#3
SPICcnmFD Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: B'ham, AL Posts: 329 Rep Power: 18	Is it a bad leak?? Might want to make sure the surfaces are good and clean. sometimes the old gaskets can leave some crud on there. __________________ 1993 Rx-7 SM2 #11 At the local AutoX: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VOSQkkSLQs Speed for Sale shootout 2007: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiqlyAkGmpg A few laps at Barbers: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_h5q...x=0&playnext=1

04-24-2008, 01:28 PM	#5
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	did not change the housing to manifold gaskets.. those were in extremely good condition. also did not change the smaller manifold to turbo. downpipe i have visually checked and no leaks there. it looks like a bad leak due to the rebuild smoke at the moment, but in the past honestly the only times i noticed it were during deflood when a few wisps of white exhaust would float up from the area. i guess maybe this is where i should have spent the extra cash and bought new gaskets, not sure they looked pristine and i had them cleaned off pretty good __________________ "sevens_ix" Last edited by a7xh7; 04-24-2008 at 01:33 PM.

04-24-2008, 01:38 PM	#6
David Jerome RCC Contributor Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 713 Rep Power: 18	You are going to see a lot of smoke and steam from the turbo area of the engine bay on a new install. This is grease from your hands and any bolt lubricant burning off of the turbos. It is extremely common and should clear up within 30 mins of the car idling or within a 10 min drive if you take it around the block. David __________________ David Jerome Broker for Speed For Sale LLC (David@SpeedForSale.com) (Pre-owned RX7/sports car sales & new parts sales/installs/tuning) PM me about low priced, high quality port work

04-24-2008, 10:48 AM	#4
tom93r1 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 45 Rep Power: 0	Did you replace the the gaskets all the way from housings to downpipe?

04-24-2008, 06:37 PM	#7
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West Posts: 199 Rep Power: 18	Just curious, what did you get figured out on the CEL codes? +1 on burning off the anti-seize etc. It actually took me an hour or better of run time before the clouds began to break up and the smell went away. But that included hi-temp paint on the DP and heat sheilds, and new header wrap. Keep the windows up on your car and the HVAC fans off. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD Last edited by Signal 2; 04-24-2008 at 06:40 PM.

04-24-2008, 07:34 PM	#8
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	CEL pointed out some of my mistakes: egr wasn't plugged in correctly. solenoid plug was loose knock sensor was plugged into the power steering female end so.. i learned not to do engine work when im tired.. most of those wiring points i did previously at 4 or 5am in the morning when i did my marathon assembly of the engine bay. hopefully the smoke will clear, didn't run the car today yet. thanks for the encouragement __________________ "sevens_ix"

04-25-2008, 05:06 PM	#9
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	smoke cleared.. downpipe wrap.. . the car is very easy to start and idles at 1.5k more issues with the car i get a weird squeal/chirp after i let go from a quick rev to 2k from 1.5k(idle speed). not a bov not sure what it is? sound happens only if i release throttle quickly. not sure where the sound is originating from. -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrvhsBGqB9Q the cooling system is gurgling like CRAZY now sitting in the garage (car is off). a lot of the sound seems to be coming from the ast/filler neck area.. and the block? -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22jHimAIPsU clutch has a ton of free play and it is sometimes hard to shift into 1st and R gears when engine is on. other times it is Ok but definitely not normal. i had issues with bleeding.. where it reached a constant feel but still have a lot of play, still not sure what to do with this. did manual rack conversion and the steering wheel alignment is WAY off. i'll adjust that soon. __________________ "sevens_ix" Last edited by a7xh7; 04-25-2008 at 05:58 PM.

04-25-2008, 05:43 PM	#10
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West Posts: 199 Rep Power: 18	For the scraping sounds, maybe double check all the heatshield fasteners? Just first thing that came to mind. Gurgling common from air still in the system. When it cools, burp (squeeze) the upper radiator hose with the filler cap off and add coolant as needed. Top off AST too. *For whatever reason, I've had issues getting all the air out of my slave in the past. Seemed like it took forever. Speedbleeder or Motive kit would probably make it alot easier. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD

04-25-2008, 06:42 PM	#11
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	don't think its the heat shields, i'll poke around though. seems to me more like air whistling or something moving quickly that is rubbing(??) not sure how to describe. i'll try the burping for the coolant, sounds like a good plan thanks i was looking into speed bleeder/motive recently. maybe its finally time to get one. __________________ "sevens_ix"

04-25-2008, 07:01 PM	#12
David Jerome RCC Contributor Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 713 Rep Power: 18	Check the ISC for the squeeling noise, disconnect it and see if that helps. When they start to go bad they make all kinds of cool noises. __________________ David Jerome Broker for Speed For Sale LLC (David@SpeedForSale.com) (Pre-owned RX7/sports car sales & new parts sales/installs/tuning) PM me about low priced, high quality port work

04-26-2008, 07:43 PM	#13
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	started it up to do a coolant burp but didn't know if it was safe to disconnect the isc while it was running. pulling on the throttle cable from underhood i was able to listen a bit better , sounds like rear of engine possibly under uim(so isc could def b it). __________________ "sevens_ix"

04-27-2008, 03:41 PM	#14
David Jerome RCC Contributor Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 713 Rep Power: 18	It is ok to disconnect it while it is running, if the car is already idling under 1000 rpms I wouldnt do it as it will probably stall and foul out the plugs. I always adjust the idle screw before disconnect to give my self a buffer so that the rpms wont drop to low. __________________ David Jerome Broker for Speed For Sale LLC (David@SpeedForSale.com) (Pre-owned RX7/sports car sales & new parts sales/installs/tuning) PM me about low priced, high quality port work

04-30-2008, 11:03 PM	#15
a7xh7 Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 88 Rep Power: 0	well it wasn't the isc. then i listened some more today, and my roommate agreed.. turboside... hmm. so im gonna have to narrow it down from that side of the uim/lim to the turbo still noticing that if i rev up slow and down slow , no squeek. any quick release or rev and it will. oh and its idling at 1.5k is that just normal for rebuild or is high idle possibly related to this issue? __________________ "sevens_ix" Last edited by a7xh7; 04-30-2008 at 11:08 PM.