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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

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Old 04-24-2008, 01:55 AM   #1
a7xh7
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rebuild first start, CEL 5 and 25, smoke from turbo side

got my rebuild started for the first time today . but 2 current codes im working on:

05 - Knock Sensor
25 - Solenoid (Pressure Regulator Control)

had a 16- EGR Valve that i already figured out (loose connector)

any common wiring problem that can contribute to both 05 and 25? i already reset the ECU to see if they would go away on their own but no. checked the connection on the knock sensor.. looks good. checking solenoid will have to wait until tomorrow morning.

also, i have a exhaust leak from around the turbos/dp that i had before the rebuild.. and has not gone away. not sure where it could b from.
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:55 AM   #2
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figured out all the CEL codes. fixed.

now about that leak
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:30 AM   #3
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Is it a bad leak?? Might want to make sure the surfaces are good and clean. sometimes the old gaskets can leave some crud on there.
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Old 04-24-2008, 10:48 AM   #4
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Did you replace the the gaskets all the way from housings to downpipe?
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Old 04-24-2008, 01:28 PM   #5
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did not change the housing to manifold gaskets.. those were in extremely good condition. also did not change the smaller manifold to turbo. downpipe i have visually checked and no leaks there.

it looks like a bad leak due to the rebuild smoke at the moment, but in the past honestly the only times i noticed it were during deflood when a few wisps of white exhaust would float up from the area.

i guess maybe this is where i should have spent the extra cash and bought new gaskets, not sure they looked pristine and i had them cleaned off pretty good
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Old 04-24-2008, 01:38 PM   #6
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You are going to see a lot of smoke and steam from the turbo area of the engine bay on a new install. This is grease from your hands and any bolt lubricant burning off of the turbos. It is extremely common and should clear up within 30 mins of the car idling or within a 10 min drive if you take it around the block.

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Old 04-24-2008, 06:37 PM   #7
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Just curious, what did you get figured out on the CEL codes?

+1 on burning off the anti-seize etc. It actually took me an hour or better of run time before the clouds began to break up and the smell went away. But that included hi-temp paint on the DP and heat sheilds, and new header wrap. Keep the windows up on your car and the HVAC fans off.
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:34 PM   #8
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CEL pointed out some of my mistakes:

egr wasn't plugged in correctly.
solenoid plug was loose
knock sensor was plugged into the power steering female end

so.. i learned not to do engine work when im tired.. most of those wiring points i did previously at 4 or 5am in the morning when i did my marathon assembly of the engine bay.

hopefully the smoke will clear, didn't run the car today yet. thanks for the encouragement
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Old 04-25-2008, 05:06 PM   #9
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smoke cleared.. downpipe wrap.. . the car is very easy to start and idles at 1.5k

more issues with the car i get a weird squeal/chirp after i let go from a quick rev to 2k from 1.5k(idle speed). not a bov not sure what it is? sound happens only if i release throttle quickly. not sure where the sound is originating from. -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrvhsBGqB9Q

the cooling system is gurgling like CRAZY now sitting in the garage (car is off). a lot of the sound seems to be coming from the ast/filler neck area.. and the block? -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22jHimAIPsU

clutch has a ton of free play and it is sometimes hard to shift into 1st and R gears when engine is on. other times it is Ok but definitely not normal. i had issues with bleeding.. where it reached a constant feel but still have a lot of play, still not sure what to do with this.

did manual rack conversion and the steering wheel alignment is WAY off. i'll adjust that soon.
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Old 04-25-2008, 05:43 PM   #10
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*For the scraping sounds, maybe double check all the heatshield fasteners? Just first thing that came to mind.
*Gurgling common from air still in the system. When it cools, burp (squeeze) the upper radiator hose with the filler cap off and add coolant as needed. Top off AST too.
*For whatever reason, I've had issues getting all the air out of my slave in the past.
Seemed like it took forever. Speedbleeder or Motive kit would probably make it alot easier.
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:42 PM   #11
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don't think its the heat shields, i'll poke around though. seems to me more like air whistling or something moving quickly that is rubbing(??) not sure how to describe.

i'll try the burping for the coolant, sounds like a good plan thanks

i was looking into speed bleeder/motive recently. maybe its finally time to get one.
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Old 04-25-2008, 07:01 PM   #12
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Check the ISC for the squeeling noise, disconnect it and see if that helps. When they start to go bad they make all kinds of cool noises.
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:43 PM   #13
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started it up to do a coolant burp but didn't know if it was safe to disconnect the isc while it was running. pulling on the throttle cable from underhood i was able to listen a bit better , sounds like rear of engine possibly under uim(so isc could def b it).
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:41 PM   #14
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It is ok to disconnect it while it is running, if the car is already idling under 1000 rpms I wouldnt do it as it will probably stall and foul out the plugs. I always adjust the idle screw before disconnect to give my self a buffer so that the rpms wont drop to low.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:03 PM   #15
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well it wasn't the isc.

then i listened some more today, and my roommate agreed.. turboside... hmm. so im gonna have to narrow it down from that side of the uim/lim to the turbo

still noticing that if i rev up slow and down slow , no squeek. any quick release or rev and it will. oh and its idling at 1.5k is that just normal for rebuild or is high idle possibly related to this issue?
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