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RX-7 1st Gen Specific (1979-85) RX-7 1979-85 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections


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Old 12-31-2013, 04:20 AM   #1
Ubaru
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Default 1983 mzda rx-7 12A rotary

So my car quit entirely a few weeks ago. i took the carb off to rebuild it. it was clogged an the butterflies where jammed. i noticed a ton of antifreeze and took the intake manifold off. the o rings where mia and the gasket was disintegrated. i have replaced everything and am about to see if she will start, anything else i should watch for? oh an i took the ecu and the emissions off of it. the rats nest is gone






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Old 12-31-2013, 04:47 AM   #2
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also 2 other questions. i have a 1986 rx-7 indipendent rear end. how hard and would it be good to put on ? an i was thinking about a low power super charger
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:12 AM   #3
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also 2 other questions. i have a 1986 rx-7 indipendent rear end. how hard and would it be good to put on ? an i was thinking about a low power super charger
Very hard. Not impossible, but you had better be very good at fabrication. Plan to basically cut up the rear half of the car to do it. The existing mounts and various parts will need to be cut out to make room. Then you will need to cut and build new frame perches to take the sub frame front mounts and build a cross member over the differential to accept the diff mount. Then it would require cutting and building shock towers to accept the FC shock/spring.

Needless to say it will also need to be properly aligned side to side, up and down, and in line with the chassis. There would probably also be a lot of clearancing of the floor pan for room to fit the bits and pieces as they move through their arcs. The track width of the FC rear is quite a bit wider than the FB so you will have to run flares or a wide body to keep the tires covered.

I looked at doing that at one time, but decided it wasn't worth it for a semi-trailing setup. It would make more sense to build a double A arm setup or adapt in an FD setup for the amount of work that would be involved. Personally I wouldn't recommend it, but you can try it if you want.

Someday we'll actually get a report on using a screw type supercharger from Duffman692002 when he gets the darned thing on his. I'm not holding my breath on that one though.
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Old 01-01-2014, 06:07 PM   #4
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ok

and theres a new problem. The car wont start on it's own, has to be pull started. Just rebuilt the carb. it idles as long as it is above 1200 rpm. Carb adjustment isnt working, maybe timing ?
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:47 PM   #5
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im not getting full ignition power. thinking its a switch an a few wires, maybe the coil. i dont have all the tools i need to do this stuff, so i guess i have to start at the switch and work my way across till she starts on her own without a pull.
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:35 AM   #6
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got the tools i needed from a friend. looks like a bad ignition switch, one of the relays is weak for coil power, and this three link fuse is weak. other than that been cleaning grounds and connectors. is there anywhere i can find new plug ends for the wireing ? the t plugs have the plastic rotting away, but i can get the prongs plugged in tight just no shielding. still reading my chilti and watching youtube
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:24 PM   #7
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typically i search out good ones at junkyards. Which connectors specifically? Many are "standard" and can be sourced from newer cars.

Also, check for good ground from the engine block. I had to add a second one from the transmission bolt to wherever on the chassis. Prior to that i only had the one and the starter was weak too.
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Old 01-04-2014, 06:09 PM   #8
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a buddy brought his electrical equipment and we did a full load test on the car through a start cycle. it failed bad the starter was pulling 16 amps bleeding the battery and ignition. may be why that relay is toast.. the starter is drawing way to much power and it knocks a bit. I have a new starter on the way. That seems to be a feasible idea, i had a chevy that needed that bit of extra.

The t connector to the alternator is the worst, the rest are close.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:53 PM   #9
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the starter should pull like 100A, unless you are talking about just the starter solenoid. your posts are confusing, and i cant tell what the actual symptoms are, and you talk about troubleshooting the starter, coils, and carb tuning, which are all competely different systems. will the starter not turn the engine fast enough to start?

maybe it would help to start doing some reading..

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car.htm
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:56 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 88turboii View Post
the starter should pull like 100A, unless you are talking about just the starter solenoid. your posts are confusing, and i cant tell what the actual symptoms are, and you talk about troubleshooting the starter, coils, and carb tuning, which are all competely different systems. will the starter not turn the engine fast enough to start?

maybe it would help to start doing some reading..

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car.htm
sorry im unorganized. So i got the car 6 months ago. last month it quit, carb went bad and was dumping fuel. So i fix that an notice antifreeze. turned out to be the intake manifold gaskets. got all that fixed and it won't start unless pull started. timing and compression seem fine. accelerates like a monster.

it wont hold an idle and no it dont seem to be turning over fast enough. the starter is making wierd noises. a buddy helped me test everything today and the starter was reading as a heavy draw, an not enough going to ignition. It is hard to really tell where as we both arent real rotary familiar.
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:21 AM   #11
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is the starter turning slower than it was before fixed the carb? Did the problems start after you removed the "ecu and emissions"? I do not know jack about carbs, so cant help you there. but if the starter is truly turning over too slowly, i would check your battery and starter connections for corrosion, check/replace the battery cables to the starter, try swapping in a known good battery, then try swapping in a known working starter
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:16 PM   #12
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I put the emissions and ecu back in. new battery, the starter started acting up months ago. I had to order the starter, got the new cables. now the waiting for parts game.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:30 PM   #13
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Hmm... yea starters CAN do some odd things. Especially while old. Where is the ground for the engine? Maybe take some pictures of engine bay.
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:21 PM   #14
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Hmm... yea starters CAN do some odd things. Especially while old. Where is the ground for the engine? Maybe take some pictures of engine bay.
ok. an the ground is dirty, also it is located on the side of the block. gonna mix up some corrosion remover an soak stuff. i peeled a bit of the battery cable casing towards the middle there is corrosion along the inside so cables might help from my experience
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Old 01-08-2014, 12:22 AM   #15
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Ok it was a loose carb bolt causing a vacum leak. tightened it up an she started an runs fine. Had decided to triple check my work. Dumb small things, and still replacing starter. took the starter apart an found the bushings are gone. And still cleaning all ground points.
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