ah ok, well i would clean off the dowel area just forward of the oil filter and just above the coolant temp sender. shine on the rounded part of the casting with a flashlight and look for hairline cracks.
with the amount of oil it's pumping out it sounds like a crack at the dowel pin, sorry.
consider a stud kit, the iron will also have to obviously be replaced. it can be salvaged either by studding the engine and welding the iron or running external oil feeds to the front and rear iron and blocking the upper pin oil passage but that's only really worth it on drag racing engines or on track racing builds.
the drift guys have been going through irons like a fat kid in a candy store so i'm going to have to push more real fixes on them instead of throwing them together on budgets and hoping for the best. just had a early B code 20B that cracked the front iron, center thick iron at the front AND the rear of it, studding the front worked but i only noticed the crack at the rear of the thick plate after the engine was running again, the superficial fix only last half a run around the track but the front held up fine(replaced the broken front iron with a reworked 13B-REW iron matched to cosmo 20B spec, repaired the cracked thick iron by welding it and reinforcing the front housing with tight tolerance 1/2" studs, the back half of the engine was not reinforced because we did not have time before the event after we found the crack at the rear section).
being that the 20B thick iron is NLA we have to work around it or he has to source a C-D code short block. external oiling would save the block from the scrapper, as i'm not sure even studding the engine with a cracked iron will keep it from failing again down the road.
at least that gives you an idea of options if you never want to deal with it again and it winds up being a faulty iron.
i will be making a titanium stud kit for the 13B in the near future, but the price will be slightly steeper than some other kits at about $400 for 6 full length studs(to fit an unmodified block or 1/2" which is more suitable for high HP applications and requires block reaming/rethreading, priced higher because titanium still isn't exactly cheap). titanium may not be as strong as some other alloys but it does have good corrosion resistance as well as tensile strength, in the conditions it has to survive in corrosion can weaken other alloys over time.
Last edited by Rotary Evolution; 03-31-2013 at 01:31 PM..
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