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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.


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Old 04-09-2008, 05:43 PM   #1
Heeley
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Default Stuck rad drain plug!

Hey guys, i have a 93 R1, and the drain plug on the rad is stuck.. looks like someone previously tried to undo it, and rounded the sucker off. What's the best way to remove it? damaged bolt / screw removal tool? I wanted to do a coolant flush since the car's new to me.

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Old 04-09-2008, 06:29 PM   #2
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Drill through the plastic plug, then get a "bolt/screw out" from sears.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:52 PM   #3
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What he said^^or if you are still using the stock one it would be a good time to upgrade to an aluminum one.
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:53 PM   #4
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cant get one of those grip pliers on it?
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiFD3S View Post
....if you are still using the stock one it would be a good time to upgrade to an aluminum one.
+1. I wouldn't even mess with it. The OEM radiator was pretty efficient for what it was. But 15 years on those plastic end-tanks is a little scary. Catastrophic coolant loss will run you alot more than the cost of an aftermarket all-aluminum radiator. Lots of choices.
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Old 04-09-2008, 09:23 PM   #6
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Thin flathead screw driver and a hammer will fix it. Make sure the screw driver is centered and not big enough to crack thru the plug and into the threads on the radiator. They sell replacements at your local autoparts store that will fit the stock radiator. It should be pretty easy to get out, dont feel bad that yours is stripped because they all do that over time.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:46 PM   #7
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thanks guys. Looks like the rad plug is the least of my worries at this point. The engine just shit the bed. Looks like o-ring failure.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:16 AM   #8
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I spent a whole day trying this once with little success even with ez-outs and whatnot. The fastest thing to do is heat up a flathead screwdriver with a torch. Stick it deep into the plastic and let the plastic harden. Voila, you just made a flathead screw that will easily come out. Sorry that it doesn't look like this will be much help now :<.
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heeley View Post
thanks guys. Looks like the rad plug is the least of my worries at this point. The engine just shit the bed. Looks like o-ring failure.
I know where you can find the best priced rebuilt shortblocks
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Old 04-13-2008, 12:53 AM   #10
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thanx... i'm sure shipping would be a bitch to Canada though. I bought the car from a dealership in Texas. Fuckers put on a low pressure rad cap, and grounded out the low coolant sensor. I assume they threw in some stock leak to minimize the leakdown as well. I put the proper cap on, and when it built pressure, it promptly started spitting coolant out the tailpipe, and frothing the coolant / barfing it out of the overflow tank. I'm not impressed.

Debating whether or not litigation is in order. I should have seen an imminent rebuild coming though with 66k miles on the original engine. Wishful thinking had the rebuild happening next year, not right away.
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Old 04-13-2008, 01:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heeley View Post
thanx... i'm sure shipping would be a bitch to Canada though. I bought the car from a dealership in Texas. Fuckers put on a low pressure rad cap, and grounded out the low coolant sensor. I assume they threw in some stock leak to minimize the leakdown as well. I put the proper cap on, and when it built pressure, it promptly started spitting coolant out the tailpipe, and frothing the coolant / barfing it out of the overflow tank. I'm not impressed.

Debating whether or not litigation is in order. I should have seen an imminent rebuild coming though with 66k miles on the original engine. Wishful thinking had the rebuild happening next year, not right away.
Shipping is actually very reasonable, your border fees or import tax or whatever might be expensive though. I have sold engines to guys in Norway and one shipping to Iceland in a couple days. Let me know if you need anything.
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