Staring at my FD before winter...

DriFD3S · 10-02-2011, 07:16 AM

I noticed a few things, while admiring it's beauty, and superiority over piston engines,
I saw that my ABS unit, has a lot of wiring...
Is there any way that the factory ABS can be modified to be used as a front/rear brake pressure controller?
like, in any way can I modify or change the way my brakes work, AT ALL?
or, am I just stupid?..

Also, to the best of my knowledge, the RX-7 I own has 550 primary, 850 secondary injectors...
To all you guys who have a Power FC, or have tuned or modified a MAP...

I wanted to know, a few things...
fuel injectors should only be used to 70% to 80% max duty cycle,
(IE: 550, is really only 440, right?)
But, do the primary and secondary injectors put gas in the engine both at the same time?
Or does one max out, then the second one begins?
I really don't know, but, what I was thinking,
wouldn't it be a good idea, to figure out how to make both fuel injectors work at the same time, both injecting fuel, in a way that was constantly using both to the maximum of their potential?
like, if 1120(CCM?) is the maximum a stock FD can squeeze into the engine,
what is the MINIMUM that will be injected??
if anyone knows, can you please share your experience with me?

Thank you!

Garfinkles Motor Works · 10-04-2011, 08:38 AM

The pri injectors run up to 3000 rpm and then the sec injectors join in the game if the load and rpm tell the ecu to bring them on line ( all running at the same time ) .After about 85% duty cycle the injectors run as if they are open all the time so they are out of control .Running both together below 3000 rpm and low load ,idle will not work very well plus no need for it .

Signal 2 · 10-04-2011, 05:05 PM

^Also a little off-topic, but assuming your referring to an FD in your signature...that should be a vacuum line going to your MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. The FD doesn't have a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. Completely different systems.

DriFD3S · 10-05-2011, 05:16 AM

Signal_2 thank you, I corrected that.

I honestly thought that Mass Air Flow sensor made sense,
because, if you have a turbo, you must have mass air flow going into an engine,
and I assumed it would have been sensed, digitally.

Also, I don't know what the file, or files involved in turning an ECU are called, or referred to as, I thought it was your MAP, like, ECU map?
I really honestly don't know, I have seen it multiple ways,
But,
The primary and secondary fuel injectors do work at the same time already?
the 550 maxes out, then the 850 comes online and supports? or takes over?
I saw on Youtube a guy who was primary and secondary 1600CC injectors,
what's with that???
just, need moar gas foar go fast, obviously,..

Signal 2 · 10-05-2011, 07:17 AM

With winter coming and the inability to drive the car, this book might be of interest if you want to learn more about the systems (fuel injection, ignition etc.)...IIRC even the difference between MAP and MAF. It also explains the basic principals of the rotary engine vs. piston, covers (fairly IMO) the advantages and disadvantages of some modifications and reads pretty well.
----> http://www.amazon.com/Street-Rotary-...7816094&sr=1-5

For specifics about the FD (stock) components, like fuel injection, look for a hard copy of the Factory Service Manual. People will look at you funny while you read it, but you'll never find a more complete source of info and reference.

Max777 · 10-05-2011, 09:14 AM

Dude, perhaps that book might be good for him, but honestly, I thought it sucked. I bought it, read it, and came to the conclusion that there is just too much information overdose in it, to where your brain goes numb after reading everything and in the end you are still left with lots of answers.

Also, it's weird because it's not written for noobs, because there is way too much unnecessary shit in there, yet it's not written for people who know about wankels, because it didn't answer a lot of my questions.

What I found works better is reading FC3S pro and Aaron Cake's website blogs. I know they are for FC's but the basic principle is the same.

Also, head over to the evil forum and steal their cookies, (I mean noob FAQ) from both the second gen and the third gen sections. We here are too L33T to write that s***, LOL!

DriFD3S · 10-06-2011, 05:24 AM

In my experiences you are both right,
#1) there is no try, there is do, or do not. It's all a learning experience.
#2) knowing more > knowing less.

For $20 or so, I am interested in all the knowledge I could attain from that,
But, the best money I ever spent on a book, was on "The Sacred Balance" by David Suzuki.

I am working on a formula to create something that will make my FD the fastest FD ever.
And then when it is perfected, I will share it with all of you!!

With pictures, and graphs and shit!
By the way, does anyone know what the MINIMUM amount of gas that needs to go into a rotary to make combustion?
Like, is it MORE or LESS than 120CCM of gas?

Signal 2 · 10-06-2011, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max777

Dude, perhaps that book might be good for him, but honestly, I thought it sucked. I bought it, read it, and came to the conclusion that there is just too much information overdose in it, to where your brain goes numb after reading everything and in the end you are still left with lots of answers.

Also, it's weird because it's not written for noobs, because there is way too much unnecessary shit in there, yet it's not written for people who know about wankels, because it didn't answer a lot of my questions.....

Well "Dude", the book isn't perfect but on the whole it was worth the money IMO.
It doesn't spoon-feed ("too much info" "unnecessary shit" perhaps?) and it doesn't make decisions for the reader. Instead it gives you the information from both sides of an issue (like synthetic oil, sequential vs parallel; single set-ups, standalones etc.) and let's you make up your own mind...assuming you have one.
If you think that book had too much information, the FSM must have really been disappointing.

Raksj04 · 10-06-2011, 12:17 PM

I have the book and read it. Not to sure what to say about it. It talk about how the postion of the Injectors will effect the motor. i.e. If they are closer to the TB, farther then from the combustion camber more power. The closer they are to the camber the better the thorttle will respond and I better the MPGs. Overly simplifed of croase. but the guys at Mazda knew what they were doing and to have them on all the time would wasted fuel. I am not sure the true details of fuel injectors, but they basicly just hold open longer or pluse longer when the duty cycle increases. If I am correct if I am wrong. I do recommed the book, I saw a few things in there that I didn't see before.

10-04-2011, 05:05 PM	#3
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West Posts: 199 Rep Power: 18	^Also a little off-topic, but assuming your referring to an FD in your signature...that should be a vacuum line going to your MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. The FD doesn't have a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor. Completely different systems. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD

10-05-2011, 05:16 AM	#4
DriFD3S Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada Posts: 174 Rep Power: 0	Signal_2 thank you, I corrected that. I honestly thought that Mass Air Flow sensor made sense, because, if you have a turbo, you must have mass air flow going into an engine, and I assumed it would have been sensed, digitally. Also, I don't know what the file, or files involved in turning an ECU are called, or referred to as, I thought it was your MAP, like, ECU map? I really honestly don't know, I have seen it multiple ways, But, The primary and secondary fuel injectors do work at the same time already? the 550 maxes out, then the 850 comes online and supports? or takes over? I saw on Youtube a guy who was primary and secondary 1600CC injectors, what's with that??? just, need moar gas foar go fast, obviously,.. __________________ *Live the DriFD3S or die trying.* JDM True Story. the Vacuum line, to my MAP became detached while I was legally drifting. my engine would not rev past 2500, and idled from 300-650 and was stalling. Fortunately, I acquired a Zip-Tie. I fixed a catastrophic engine failure, With a Zip-Tie. JDM FTW.

10-05-2011, 07:17 AM	#5
Signal 2 Viable Fossil Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Mid-West Posts: 199 Rep Power: 18	With winter coming and the inability to drive the car, this book might be of interest if you want to learn more about the systems (fuel injection, ignition etc.)...IIRC even the difference between MAP and MAF. It also explains the basic principals of the rotary engine vs. piston, covers (fairly IMO) the advantages and disadvantages of some modifications and reads pretty well. ----> http://www.amazon.com/Street-Rotary-...7816094&sr=1-5 For specifics about the FD (stock) components, like fuel injection, look for a hard copy of the Factory Service Manual. People will look at you funny while you read it, but you'll never find a more complete source of info and reference. __________________ Jim VR R1 FD Last edited by Signal 2; 10-05-2011 at 07:19 AM.

10-05-2011, 09:14 AM	#6
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	Dude, perhaps that book might be good for him, but honestly, I thought it sucked. I bought it, read it, and came to the conclusion that there is just too much information overdose in it, to where your brain goes numb after reading everything and in the end you are still left with lots of answers. Also, it's weird because it's not written for noobs, because there is way too much unnecessary shit in there, yet it's not written for people who know about wankels, because it didn't answer a lot of my questions. What I found works better is reading FC3S pro and Aaron Cake's website blogs. I know they are for FC's but the basic principle is the same. Also, head over to the evil forum and steal their cookies, (I mean noob FAQ) from both the second gen and the third gen sections. We here are too L33T to write that s**, LOL! __________________ Rotaries:*They are NOT that complicated!

10-06-2011, 05:24 AM	#7
DriFD3S Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada Posts: 174 Rep Power: 0	In my experiences you are both right, #1) there is no try, there is do, or do not. It's all a learning experience. #2) knowing more > knowing less. For $20 or so, I am interested in all the knowledge I could attain from that, But, the best money I ever spent on a book, was on "The Sacred Balance" by David Suzuki. I am working on a formula to create something that will make my FD the fastest FD ever. And then when it is perfected, I will share it with all of you!! With pictures, and graphs and shit! By the way, does anyone know what the MINIMUM amount of gas that needs to go into a rotary to make combustion? Like, is it MORE or LESS than 120CCM of gas? __________________ *Live the DriFD3S or die trying.* JDM True Story. the Vacuum line, to my MAP became detached while I was legally drifting. my engine would not rev past 2500, and idled from 300-650 and was stalling. Fortunately, I acquired a Zip-Tie. I fixed a catastrophic engine failure, With a Zip-Tie. JDM FTW.

10-02-2011, 07:16 AM	#1
DriFD3S Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada Posts: 174 Rep Power: 0	Staring at my FD before winter... I noticed a few things, while admiring it's beauty, and superiority over piston engines, I saw that my ABS unit, has a lot of wiring... Is there any way that the factory ABS can be modified to be used as a front/rear brake pressure controller? like, in any way can I modify or change the way my brakes work, AT ALL? or, am I just stupid?.. Also, to the best of my knowledge, the RX-7 I own has 550 primary, 850 secondary injectors... To all you guys who have a Power FC, or have tuned or modified a MAP... I wanted to know, a few things... fuel injectors should only be used to 70% to 80% max duty cycle, (IE: 550, is really only 440, right?) But, do the primary and secondary injectors put gas in the engine both at the same time? Or does one max out, then the second one begins? I really don't know, but, what I was thinking, wouldn't it be a good idea, to figure out how to make both fuel injectors work at the same time, both injecting fuel, in a way that was constantly using both to the maximum of their potential? like, if 1120(CCM?) is the maximum a stock FD can squeeze into the engine, what is the MINIMUM that will be injected?? if anyone knows, can you please share your experience with me? Thank you! __________________ *Live the DriFD3S or die trying.* JDM True Story. the Vacuum line, to my MAP became detached while I was legally drifting. my engine would not rev past 2500, and idled from 300-650 and was stalling. Fortunately, I acquired a Zip-Tie. I fixed a catastrophic engine failure, With a Zip-Tie. JDM FTW.

10-04-2011, 08:38 AM	#2
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 535 Rep Power: 18	The pri injectors run up to 3000 rpm and then the sec injectors join in the game if the load and rpm tell the ecu to bring them on line ( all running at the same time ) .After about 85% duty cycle the injectors run as if they are open all the time so they are out of control .Running both together below 3000 rpm and low load ,idle will not work very well plus no need for it .

10-06-2011, 12:17 PM	#9
Raksj04 I have Ultra power in me. Join Date: Sep 2011 Posts: 457 Rep Power: 14	I have the book and read it. Not to sure what to say about it. It talk about how the postion of the Injectors will effect the motor. i.e. If they are closer to the TB, farther then from the combustion camber more power. The closer they are to the camber the better the thorttle will respond and I better the MPGs. Overly simplifed of croase. but the guys at Mazda knew what they were doing and to have them on all the time would wasted fuel. I am not sure the true details of fuel injectors, but they basicly just hold open longer or pluse longer when the duty cycle increases. If I am correct if I am wrong. I do recommed the book, I saw a few things in there that I didn't see before.