water leak

[hades]

So after DGRR I decided it would probably be a good idea to get my car on the road again.

The car had the radiator, waterpump, turbo coolant hoses, ast, thermostat and an M2 style intake installed.

Today I did a an oil change and filled up the coolant side. Primed the oil side and it started up and idled great. But then it started losing coolant and smoking behind the turbos. The heat core hoses looks good.





Any ideas before I start tearing shit off? I can't remember of any coolant hoses back there.

Thanks for any help.

[hades]

so I shot Hellen Keller today and found the leak. Leak between WP house and rats nest. New hose will be ordered and all will be okay with the world again.

[prrex4ever]

Good deal, I hope to have mine back on the road by the by the end of May. Can't wait, I really miss driving her.

[TitaniumTT]

I was going to suggest the crush washers on the turbos. Do you have a cooling system pressure tester? THose things are invaluable.... Pressurize the system and look for the leaks. I did one N/A and found like 5 little leaks and one or two BIG ones.... someone had tightened the hose clamp on the thin copper heatercore lines WAY to tight... it was leaking so they tightened it morem it kept leaking and they kept tigheneing until the thing was the shape of a "D"

[hades]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

I was going to suggest the crush washers on the turbos. Do you have a cooling system pressure tester? THose things are invaluable.... Pressurize the system and look for the leaks. I did one N/A and found like 5 little leaks and one or two BIG ones.... someone had tightened the hose clamp on the thin copper heatercore lines WAY to tight... it was leaking so they tightened it morem it kept leaking and they kept tigheneing until the thing was the shape of a "D"

no. But I should get one. Takes the guess work out if you have an internal leak

[Prodigy]

snap on ones go for $350...

but so very useful.... friend of mine has one... works so well...


J.

[TitaniumTT]

Dayum... the borrowed and never returned to work one that I have went for $0

But yes..... very good to have to diagnose coolant seals or a mystery leak

[hades]

got the new hose and finally had some time to work on the car.

Filled with fluid. Car held fluid Started the car and it idled great with good vacuum and oil pressure. Put pressure cap on. Let the car continue to heat up. Everything going fine. BAM!!! hose blew off the bottom of the AST (rotary performance version).

Anyone know why it wasn't purging air and building up pressure? Should I leave a cap or hose off till it fully warms up?

[TitaniumTT]

The cap on the AST is there to build pressure. There won't be much in the way of flow to purge the air until the t-stat opens..... so if you're confident there's air in the system, more air than what will be displaced by coolant expanding, leave the cap off. I would just be a man about it and put some torque into the worm clamps to keep the hose from popping off.

Or you couldc run evans and no pressure

I run a 16lb cap on my FC

[TitaniumTT]

The cap on the AST is there to build pressure. There won't be much in the way of flow to purge the air until the t-stat opens..... so if you're confident there's air in the system, more air than what will be displaced by coolant expanding, leave the cap off. I would just be a man about it and put some torque into the worm clamps to keep the hose from popping off.

Or you couldc run evans and no pressure

I run a 16lb cap on my FC

[hades]

refilled with no issues. seems to be at 175 without issue.

I think it must have been a big air pocket that the system couldn't purge.

the ast doesn't have a large hose barb on the bottom. I think you could torque it a bazillion pounds and the hose could still pop off.

I am thinking about getting a bigger barb welded on.

[TitaniumTT]

At 175* the t-stat still hasn't opened.... so you would need to get it a little hotter before the t-stat opened and the coolant started flowing.

Bigger barb would help, but then you'd need an adapter fitting or a bigger barb welded on the other end as well.......

aaaaaaaaaaan I don't thing the worm gears can support a bazillion pounds of torque... I think they'd strip

[hades]

It hit 185 before dropping back down. I have also suspected my gauge reads low too.

I plan on running it a few more times before I hit the street.

[hades]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

At 175* the t-stat still hasn't opened.... so you would need to get it a little hotter before the t-stat opened and the coolant started flowing.

Bigger barb would help, but then you'd need an adapter fitting or a bigger barb welded on the other end as well.......

aaaaaaaaaaan I don't thing the worm gears can support a bazillion pounds of torque... I think they'd strip

I bazillion is a very technical term that you can use when drunk. And I waited till I was done working on the car before I started drinking thank you.

I think a very small bead would help, but I don't know if its worth the hassle right now. I will do it if I take it off to get it power coated.

At work we double bead all of the CAC and water pipes to prevent blow offs. Helps out quite a bit when the CAC pipes see 50 psi and the water side is flowing a 100 gal/min.

We don't use worm drive clamps. They take too long to install and don't expand and contract with temperature changes. The fittings have a bead (2-2.5mm lip). The clamps can barley pass the barb when the hose is installed. If I do put on bead that's what I will go for. But I am not in a huge hurry right now.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by hades

I bazillion is a very technical term that you can use when drunk.

I fully consider a shit ton to be an engineering unit.