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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.


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Old 03-31-2008, 06:52 PM   #1
FRFC3S
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Default Bad idle, Hesitation under load, black smoke

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Old 03-31-2008, 07:16 PM   #2
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Jesus! Might just want to go ahead and slave in a spare ECU and see what happens.
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:23 PM   #3
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:28 PM   #4
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Check to see if all the electrical connectors are tight under the hood. My car did something very similar to yours cause the TPS and AIT sensors had come unhooked.
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:33 PM   #5
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:49 PM   #6
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Actually, you would have to check the voltage after the resistance drop, with the red lead on the proper pole of the sensor and the other lead on a chassis ground.
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Rat View Post
Actually, you would have to check the voltage after the resistance drop, with the red lead on the proper pole of the sensor and the other lead on a chassis ground.
Thank you J-Rat. I will try that and I will try retiming it and get back to you guys. Please post any further ideas.
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:38 PM   #8
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http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
Make sure you use the S5 instructions. Your TPS could be bad, and a reading of '1', with the 1 being all the way to the left of the multimeter screen, means that the resistance is either infinite (meaning no continuity, no connection) or you are using too low of a setting. If it's '1' all the way to the right then you are probably using too high of a setting on the meter and you should turn it down until you get a non-one reading or you are as low as it will read.
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Old 04-01-2008, 10:00 PM   #9
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Old 04-01-2008, 10:34 PM   #10
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I did, it's just that the TPS can be problematic even if it seems to test out ok. I and others have had it happen before.

You may be on to something with vacuum leaks, they're very common and can cause really weird problems. I found the most help from a tool that plugs the intake and has a pressure gauge mounted to it, you can pressurize the intake with the adapter that's on it. I tried a few different methods of finding vacuum leaks and none of them were a fourth as effective as doing it with this tool:
http://boostpro.net/prodtester.html
You'd want one of these two for the best results:
Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter
With Tire Valve Adapter
$20 + $4.60 shipping

Boost Leak Tester (Gauged)
3" Diameter)
With Male Compressor Coupler
$20 + $4.60 shipping

And here's a DIY option that you can modify to make work for the '7:
http://www.supercar-engineering.com/...T/IntPresTest/
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Old 04-02-2008, 05:57 PM   #11
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:47 PM   #12
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:32 PM   #13
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:29 PM   #14
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I am under the impression that if the boost sensor is bad, it would thrown the CEL. Is your light on?

Also, I have never heard of the the boost sensor failing (on its own) on an FC.

Oh, and I don't have that many CEL codes on my S5 emissions removal.
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:17 PM   #15
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you can use a n/a ecu... you just drive easy and can't boost... that would be a good way to test the engine lights..
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