Fuel Slosh

tweiss3 · 03-30-2011, 06:29 AM

Is it common for fuel slosh to create "fuel cut" where you nail a tight corner, and half way through you feel like you hit a wall? Its been happening to me the past few weeks. Ive even had it happen with a touch over half a tank.

My5ABaby · 03-30-2011, 07:37 AM

Normal-ish yes. There's two causes.

1. Dirty in tank fuel filter
2. Rusted out baffles

Try changing the in tank filter first.

tweiss3 · 03-30-2011, 07:53 AM

I'll give that a shot. Can it be done without dropping the tank? I wonder if my baffles are gone, which it is very possible.

N.RotaryTech · 03-30-2011, 08:00 AM

This is exactly what happened with my gtu a few years ago. It would cut out on left hand cornering.
I took the fuel pump contraption out of the tank. And yes there was some dirt on the filter. But I also looked inside the tank and found a layer of deposits under where the pump sits. This layer was so thick that it touched the bottom of the filter. The baffles were not rusted through, it just had a load of deposits sitting in it.

So i took my fuel tank out and cleaned it real good with water and paint thinner.

Ever since then, no more problems.
When i took it for a spin after I got it all back together again, I swear it felt like it had more power. lol.

So just check the filter on the pump and clean it, and check inside the tank too for rusted baffles and/or a layer of deposits. Take necessary action depending on what you find.

My5ABaby · 03-30-2011, 08:06 AM

Remove the rear carpet, take off the left access cover, disconnect the pump, remove te 8 screws, lift the pump out. The filter will either be a yellow bag thing or yellow box on the bottom. I believe one screw holds it on.

As rotary tech said look for deposits. If your tank is nasty it'll just clog again.

N.RotaryTech · 03-30-2011, 08:07 AM

Checking it out can be done without dropping the tank.
Lift up the carpet in the hatch area. Next get a screw driver and take off the plate with wire coming out of it on the driver side of the hatch area. Start the car then detach the connector that's connected to the fuel pump. Let it die. Detach the fuel lines at the pump. Take out the fuel pump contraption by unscrewing the screws (be careful not to strip them). Check things out.

tweiss3 · 03-30-2011, 08:08 AM

awesome, sounds like i probably have 20 years of shit sitting in the bottom and i probably should just clean it out

N.RotaryTech · 03-30-2011, 08:08 AM

^^ beat me to it. lol.

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-30-2011, 11:24 AM

Very common. Happened to me a few times when I was n/a. It's the second 1/2 of the reason I went ahead and built the fuel cell/surge tank setup.

rxspeed7 · 03-30-2011, 01:13 PM

Here's my surge tank setup i put together a few years back. works like a charm!

FRED · 03-30-2011, 04:08 PM

That fuel strainer on the bottom of the pump will stop up and it won't look like its very dirty. It will get a clear varnish clogging up the screen and won't hardly let fuel come thru as fast as is normal. Soak the screen in acetone overnite and blow it out or just buy another at the store.

Don't belive it? Then take the screen off and fill it up with gasoline and notice how it will barely leak out the screen.

The usual failure is in left hand turns.

03-30-2011, 06:29 AM	#1
tweiss3 Mazda Lover Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 319 Rep Power: 15	Fuel Slosh Is it common for fuel slosh to create "fuel cut" where you nail a tight corner, and half way through you feel like you hit a wall? Its been happening to me the past few weeks. Ive even had it happen with a touch over half a tank. __________________ 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles

03-30-2011, 07:37 AM	#2
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	Normal-ish yes. There's two causes. 1. Dirty in tank fuel filter 2. Rusted out baffles Try changing the in tank filter first. __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

03-30-2011, 07:53 AM	#3
tweiss3 Mazda Lover Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 319 Rep Power: 15	I'll give that a shot. Can it be done without dropping the tank? I wonder if my baffles are gone, which it is very possible. __________________ 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles

03-30-2011, 08:00 AM	#4
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC iTrader: (0) Posts: 552 Rep Power: 17	This is exactly what happened with my gtu a few years ago. It would cut out on left hand cornering. I took the fuel pump contraption out of the tank. And yes there was some dirt on the filter. But I also looked inside the tank and found a layer of deposits under where the pump sits. This layer was so thick that it touched the bottom of the filter. The baffles were not rusted through, it just had a load of deposits sitting in it. So i took my fuel tank out and cleaned it real good with water and paint thinner. Ever since then, no more problems. When i took it for a spin after I got it all back together again, I swear it felt like it had more power. lol. So just check the filter on the pump and clean it, and check inside the tank too for rusted baffles and/or a layer of deposits. Take necessary action depending on what you find. __________________ '89 RX7 GTU, half-Bridge-port S4/S5 NA, E6K, Full RB exhaust, weekend warrior. '83 RX7, The "this might take awhile" project. '87 RX7 GXL, Rest In Pieces. '98 Subaru Impreza Outback-sport, rx7 rescue vehicle, down for repair. '94 Ford Ranger, daily.

03-30-2011, 08:06 AM	#5
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	Remove the rear carpet, take off the left access cover, disconnect the pump, remove te 8 screws, lift the pump out. The filter will either be a yellow bag thing or yellow box on the bottom. I believe one screw holds it on. As rotary tech said look for deposits. If your tank is nasty it'll just clog again. __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."

03-30-2011, 08:07 AM	#6
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC iTrader: (0) Posts: 552 Rep Power: 17	Checking it out can be done without dropping the tank. Lift up the carpet in the hatch area. Next get a screw driver and take off the plate with wire coming out of it on the driver side of the hatch area. Start the car then detach the connector that's connected to the fuel pump. Let it die. Detach the fuel lines at the pump. Take out the fuel pump contraption by unscrewing the screws (be careful not to strip them). Check things out. __________________ '89 RX7 GTU, half-Bridge-port S4/S5 NA, E6K, Full RB exhaust, weekend warrior. '83 RX7, The "this might take awhile" project. '87 RX7 GXL, Rest In Pieces. '98 Subaru Impreza Outback-sport, rx7 rescue vehicle, down for repair. '94 Ford Ranger, daily.

03-30-2011, 08:08 AM	#7
tweiss3 Mazda Lover Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Akron, Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 319 Rep Power: 15	awesome, sounds like i probably have 20 years of shit sitting in the bottom and i probably should just clean it out __________________ 2004 Mazda6 V6 5-spd - still waiting on money for a motor 1991 Mazda RX7 NA 5-spd - my new DD with 145,000 miles

03-30-2011, 08:08 AM	#8
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC iTrader: (0) Posts: 552 Rep Power: 17	^^ beat me to it. lol. __________________ '89 RX7 GTU, half-Bridge-port S4/S5 NA, E6K, Full RB exhaust, weekend warrior. '83 RX7, The "this might take awhile" project. '87 RX7 GXL, Rest In Pieces. '98 Subaru Impreza Outback-sport, rx7 rescue vehicle, down for repair. '94 Ford Ranger, daily.

03-30-2011, 11:24 AM	#9
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Very common. Happened to me a few times when I was n/a. It's the second 1/2 of the reason I went ahead and built the fuel cell/surge tank setup. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-30-2011, 04:08 PM	#11
FRED Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2011 iTrader: (0) Posts: 73 Rep Power: 14	That fuel strainer on the bottom of the pump will stop up and it won't look like its very dirty. It will get a clear varnish clogging up the screen and won't hardly let fuel come thru as fast as is normal. Soak the screen in acetone overnite and blow it out or just buy another at the store. Don't belive it? Then take the screen off and fill it up with gasoline and notice how it will barely leak out the screen. The usual failure is in left hand turns.