Burning coolant at startup.

djmtsu · 03-23-2010, 07:04 AM

Yep, she just started doing it.

At initial startup she chugs for about 30 seconds and then smooths out and runs great. This morning I smelled coolant/fuel from the tail pipes.

Guess it is time for a new engine, unless someone has an idea to stop it until after DGRR.

I am guessing it is either a bad coolant seal, or cracks in the housings.

Jeff20B · 03-23-2010, 11:38 AM

Probably a bad coolant seal. We know how FDs and RX-8s tend to run hotter than previous models due to their smaller capacity cooling systems and higher power levels. I tore down four FC engines recently and every one of them had that nasty block sealer crap inside the water jacket.

I'm with you. I recommend a new engine instead of any type of block sealer. I'm sure kentetsu will recommend block sealer, but he's never tried a to do a rebuild and seen the aftermath and/or had to clean it out.

My5ABaby · 03-23-2010, 11:59 AM

You need to stop breaking engines dj...

djmtsu · 03-23-2010, 12:13 PM

Hey, this one came to me with a billion miles on it...so its bound to have issues.

I am just going to run the shit out of it until it starts blowing out coolant at an alarming rate.

eppo37 · 03-24-2010, 12:44 AM

Assuming you do have to replace the engine, have you started thinking about what engine you want to drop in it?

djmtsu · 03-24-2010, 06:53 AM

I will keep it a stock Renesis. I have had boosted rotaries, but I just do not want to deal with the hassles of swapping ANOTHER engine.

I am waiting for the next RX-7 to come out for something more aggressive.

classicauto · 03-24-2010, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djmtsu

I am just going to run the shit out of it until it starts blowing out coolant at an alarming rate.

I heart you.

Also, for a temp fix, the best sealent I've found is "irontite". Works surprisingly well, but we all know how "well" any treatment works on a busted coolant seal.

energy0506 · 04-21-2010, 04:22 PM

I have a 2004 Mazda RX-8 and I am smelling coolant upon start up as well. I need to find a good rotary engine mechanic in the Houston area...any feed back is greatly appreciated!

***Herblenny*** · 04-21-2010, 05:24 PM

Hey Guys I have a spare Renesis I'm planning to unload for about $2500 Complete rebuilt with new coolant seals, apex, etc with tranny, intakes, wiring harness, etc... if anyone is interested. Its being spec'd and built by my builder (its taking some time

)

Rotary Related · 10-22-2010, 12:05 AM

Why not just replace the coolant seals before it gets worse?

Kentetsu · 10-22-2010, 01:48 AM

@ Jeff20b- For the record I DO NOT recommend block sealant. That's like using a sledge hammer when a scalpel will do the job.

When I installed a low mileage 12a a couple of years ago, only to find it was pumping the coolant straight out of the exhaust system, I did a lot of research into what was commonly used (block sealants) and came up with my own method.

What I found is actually a radiator sealant which is based on aluminum particles. No nasty crap or chunks of shit, and no buildup that I've seen in the radiator or coolant lines. I have not torn the motor down though, because it turns out that I didn't have to.

Also, there's no need to clean out the system, flush it, or anything like that (which the block sealant method calls for). I just added it straight to the radiator, topped it off with some water/antifreeze and let it idle. After it did it's stuff, I let it cool down and topped her off again and that was it.

The shit completely resolved the issue within a half hour of idling in the driveway. Since then, I've got over 20,000 miles on that motor and she's still going strong. That includes two trips to Deals Gap (from Michigan), racing on weekends, and driving her to work everyday that there isn't snow on the ground.

The stuff is called Alumaseal, and can be found at damn near any autoparts store for under $5.00

If you're worried about the potential for heartache when you rebuild it, then rebuild it now. But if you plan to run it into the ground anyway, or have a little faith that it won't fill your motor with crud, then spend the five bucks and give it a shot. As long as you aren't pumping exhaust gasses into the radiator (as in, the flow is going the wrong direction for anything like this to work), then it will do the job. My car is living proof.

.

FC Zach · 10-22-2010, 03:32 AM

Suzuki actually used a product very similar to what you're talking about Kentetsu. They added it directly to their rotary bikes right off the line. We use the exact same product you speak of to any RE5 we service at RotaryRecycle. The graphite consistency also serves as a lubricant for the waterpump shaft, but that's just a pro for the RE5. I understand there may be some cons but if it is used as directed then there shouldn't be any issue. The motors that are torn down and have what looks like Goop Slime in it are probably from previous owners who used the product in excess.

rx865 · 10-25-2010, 12:38 PM

Mine did that as well, didn't really notice it at first (the smell) but it kept getting harder to start and started bogging for the first little while then would run fine. Untill one day I went to move my car to mow the yard and I put it in reverse and started backing up and white smoke poured out of the exhaust and I smelt coolant. Then it wouldn't start. Kevin rebuilt mine about 4 thousand miles ago. Coolant seals were shot, my cat was full of coolant, and it was just in really bad shape.

03-23-2010, 07:04 AM	#1
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Burning coolant at startup. Yep, she just started doing it. At initial startup she chugs for about 30 seconds and then smooths out and runs great. This morning I smelled coolant/fuel from the tail pipes. Guess it is time for a new engine, unless someone has an idea to stop it until after DGRR. I am guessing it is either a bad coolant seal, or cracks in the housings. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

03-23-2010, 11:59 AM	#3
My5ABaby Sigh..... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,377 Rep Power: 19	You need to stop breaking engines dj... __________________ 1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." Last edited by My5ABaby; 03-23-2010 at 01:53 PM..

03-23-2010, 12:13 PM	#4
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	Hey, this one came to me with a billion miles on it...so its bound to have issues. I am just going to run the shit out of it until it starts blowing out coolant at an alarming rate. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

03-24-2010, 12:44 AM	#5
eppo37 Rotarded Jackass :) Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Birmingham, AL iTrader: (0) Posts: 50 Rep Power: 17	Assuming you do have to replace the engine, have you started thinking about what engine you want to drop in it? __________________ "There's a fine line between not listening and not caring. I'd like to think I walk that line everyday." - Loenard L. Church User [yoo-zer] noun -the word IT professionals use when they really mean idiot Hacking is like sex. You get in, you get out, and you hope you didn't leave anything behind that can be traced back to you.

03-24-2010, 06:53 AM	#6
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	I will keep it a stock Renesis. I have had boosted rotaries, but I just do not want to deal with the hassles of swapping ANOTHER engine. I am waiting for the next RX-7 to come out for something more aggressive. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

03-23-2010, 11:38 AM	#2
Jeff20B Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 215 Rep Power: 17	Probably a bad coolant seal. We know how FDs and RX-8s tend to run hotter than previous models due to their smaller capacity cooling systems and higher power levels. I tore down four FC engines recently and every one of them had that nasty block sealer crap inside the water jacket. I'm with you. I recommend a new engine instead of any type of block sealer. I'm sure kentetsu will recommend block sealer, but he's never tried a to do a rebuild and seen the aftermath and/or had to clean it out.

04-21-2010, 04:22 PM	#8
energy0506 The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 1 Rep Power: 0	I have a 2004 Mazda RX-8 and I am smelling coolant upon start up as well. I need to find a good rotary engine mechanic in the Houston area...any feed back is greatly appreciated!

04-21-2010, 05:24 PM	#9
*Herblenny* Founder/Administrator/Internet Pitbull :) Join Date: Jan 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 644 Rep Power: 10	Hey Guys I have a spare Renesis I'm planning to unload for about $2500 Complete rebuilt with new coolant seals, apex, etc with tranny, intakes, wiring harness, etc... if anyone is interested. Its being spec'd and built by my builder (its taking some time ) __________________ DGRR 2013 - Year of 13B www.DealsGapRotaryRally.com http://www.facebook.com/Herblenny

10-22-2010, 12:05 AM	#10
Rotary Related Good stuff at low prices Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: TX iTrader: (0) Posts: 52 Rep Power: 15	Why not just replace the coolant seals before it gets worse? __________________ Visit us at: www.rotaryrelated.com or find us on facebook

10-22-2010, 01:48 AM	#11
Kentetsu RCC Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan iTrader: (1) Posts: 530 Rep Power: 17	@ Jeff20b- For the record I DO NOT recommend block sealant. That's like using a sledge hammer when a scalpel will do the job. When I installed a low mileage 12a a couple of years ago, only to find it was pumping the coolant straight out of the exhaust system, I did a lot of research into what was commonly used (block sealants) and came up with my own method. What I found is actually a radiator sealant which is based on aluminum particles. No nasty crap or chunks of shit, and no buildup that I've seen in the radiator or coolant lines. I have not torn the motor down though, because it turns out that I didn't have to. Also, there's no need to clean out the system, flush it, or anything like that (which the block sealant method calls for). I just added it straight to the radiator, topped it off with some water/antifreeze and let it idle. After it did it's stuff, I let it cool down and topped her off again and that was it. The shit completely resolved the issue within a half hour of idling in the driveway. Since then, I've got over 20,000 miles on that motor and she's still going strong. That includes two trips to Deals Gap (from Michigan), racing on weekends, and driving her to work everyday that there isn't snow on the ground. The stuff is called Alumaseal, and can be found at damn near any autoparts store for under $5.00 If you're worried about the potential for heartache when you rebuild it, then rebuild it now. But if you plan to run it into the ground anyway, or have a little faith that it won't fill your motor with crud, then spend the five bucks and give it a shot. As long as you aren't pumping exhaust gasses into the radiator (as in, the flow is going the wrong direction for anything like this to work), then it will do the job. My car is living proof. . __________________ "Learn from the past, or it will become your future...." '85 GS 12a + LSD/Sterling carb/Respeed coilovers/Respeed front swaybar/Respeed adj. rear spring perches/Illuminas/Bilsteins on rear AutoX vids @ http://www.youtube.com/user/Kentetsu1 Last edited by Kentetsu; 10-22-2010 at 01:55 AM..

10-22-2010, 03:32 AM	#12
FC Zach RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Eagleville, TN iTrader: (2) Posts: 2,267 Rep Power: 19	Suzuki actually used a product very similar to what you're talking about Kentetsu. They added it directly to their rotary bikes right off the line. We use the exact same product you speak of to any RE5 we service at RotaryRecycle. The graphite consistency also serves as a lubricant for the waterpump shaft, but that's just a pro for the RE5. I understand there may be some cons but if it is used as directed then there shouldn't be any issue. The motors that are torn down and have what looks like Goop Slime in it are probably from previous owners who used the product in excess. __________________ 1993 Yamaha GTS1000 1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac 1987 RX7 Sport 1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered 1975 Dolmar KMS4

10-25-2010, 12:38 PM	#13
rx865 DC Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Jefferson City TN iTrader: (0) Posts: 83 Rep Power: 15	Mine did that as well, didn't really notice it at first (the smell) but it kept getting harder to start and started bogging for the first little while then would run fine. Untill one day I went to move my car to mow the yard and I put it in reverse and started backing up and white smoke poured out of the exhaust and I smelt coolant. Then it wouldn't start. Kevin rebuilt mine about 4 thousand miles ago. Coolant seals were shot, my cat was full of coolant, and it was just in really bad shape.