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#2 |
The Newbie
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After owning 2 corvettes, I love my VX7 vert. Drove it out of curiosity and fell in love with the ride, handling and overall build quality. But the wheel hop is a disappointment. Struts and bushings are in good shape. has anyone else had this problem? Suggestions??
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#3 |
Rotary Fanatic
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i have all all quality crap in my suspension, and it still hops sometimes. not nearly as bad as with original bushings, but its not completely gone either.
there are a bunch of things you can do to reduce it, but it'll probably never go away: solid rear diff mounts with collars (custom part- basically filling the gap between the crown and the diff on the rear mounts with a hockey puck or aluminum or whatever), subframe mounts, stiffer shocks, make sure theres no excess play in the diff
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#4 |
The Newbie
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Thanks Josh. the differential mounts are the only thing I haven't checked. will do that ASAP. The design of the rear suspension isn't the brightest idea from mazda. It pulls the body down on acceleration, instead of pushing up to get more traction. On regular leaf springs I have used traction bars, but the way the RX7 is built, it doesn't look to be easily done.
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#6 |
Sigh.....
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Or drop in an N/A 13b.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
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#7 |
The quest for more torque
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Actually, I have found that adjusting the rear shocks stiffer will actually improve wheel hop (I had serious issues with it before). Setting KYB AGX shocks at 8 seems to fix the issue almost entirely.
This is actually the opposite of the setting required for maximum weight transfer and minimum axle hop on a solid rear axle car. I think that weight transfer is not as good with the stiff shocks, but the car still launches at >1g with factory size tires on it.
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) |
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#8 | |
RCC Addict
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The car wasn't made for drag racing. Thinking it is isn't too smart on your part. What I'd like to know is why the F*CK are you trying to drag a convertible, which has the crappiest set-up to do this in the first place? (i.e. 3.90:1 stock rear end?) -Ted |
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#9 |
Respecognize!
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it might just be me (or physics) but isnt the downward motion of the body relative to MORE traction due to the weight transfer vectoring forces down onto the wheels?
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#10 |
RCC Addict
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Yes, if we're strictly talking about dynamic loading forces of the chassis while ignoring the dynamics of the rear suspension.
The reality is with the K-M hub design of the trailing link rear + the DTSS crap, you get additional changes in toe and camber, while is detrimental to getting as much traction in the rear on a hard drag launch. -Ted |
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#11 |
Rotary Fanatic
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lots of squat = good
camber gain with squat = bad so it kinda evens out to being pointless. every suspension design is "stupid" compared to wishbones, but we get what we get.
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#12 |
Respecognize!
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+1 for FB? lol
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For current updates and event coverage check out Follow on Twitter! @WhizbangRally Whizbang Rally's Webpage | Facebook |
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#13 | |
The Newbie
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Sorry i'm to lazy to jack up the vert make some marks and spin the wheels... |
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#14 |
RCC Addict
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All US-spec convertibles should have the 3.9 rear end.
The 3.9 compensates for the auto trans and increased weight to comply with CAFE mileage rules for Mazda. -Ted |
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#15 |
Respecognize!
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and they were all open diff too. I could have sworn i came across information about the convertible diffs for S5 models being 4.10s tho
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