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RX-7 1st Gen Specific (1979-85) RX-7 1979-85 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections |
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View Poll Results: What oiling setup to use for racing | |||
Leave it stock and run the right engine oil | 0 | 0% | |
Leave it stock and add some pre-mix | 8 | 53.33% | |
Disable the metering pump and pre-mix | 6 | 40.00% | |
Other - I have posted a better idea | 1 | 6.67% | |
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
04-09-2012, 11:50 AM | #1 |
Rotary Fan in Training
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Pre-Mix Oil What - HELP?
I am new to rotary engines and had no idea they had an oil metering pump or you could pre-mix or both. I just read about it in the sticky post.
Where can I read up on this? Where is this oil metering pump? What is the recommended setup for racing? What type of oil should I use? |
04-09-2012, 12:28 PM | #2 |
Sigh.....
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I have an FC so I can't talk much about the OMP on the FB, but I took off my OMP and premix with generic TCW3. Some people will say the expensive premix is better, and it probably is, but I haven't had any issues with the cheap stuff.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
04-09-2012, 01:52 PM | #3 |
tumor-syphilis-itis-osis
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I run premix and the omp. (85 with a 12a) 128:1- The way i see it if you only run premix you are taking a risk that you will always remember oil in the gas at the proper ratio. Same running only the omp, if it fails or clogs without you knowing for a while it can cause the same issue.
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82 300d 82 Gsl 84 b2200 Diesel 88 gxl |
04-09-2012, 06:16 PM | #4 |
Rotary Fanatic
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Cheap TCW3 from the parts store. I think I'm currently using Marine grade (whatever the difference may be to others). Mix it 1oz/gal and the car is happy with it. Doesn't hurt the wallet much and I know it's mixing with clean oil. Although it's a fresh rebuild so the oil has been staying clean for a while, but it won't always be that way.
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04-11-2012, 08:57 PM | #6 |
The Newbie
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^ Now that sounds interesting and has peaked my curiosity. You should post up some pics of that. I'm sure there are a lot of people that would prefer to do something like that than add oil every time they fill up with gas.
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04-12-2012, 05:35 AM | #7 | |
Lifetime Rotorhead
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Quote:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ad.php?t=14945 |
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04-12-2012, 09:17 AM | #8 | |
IT'S ALIVE!
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Quote:
I could get an S4 front cover and find a mechnical OMP and rig something up but I don't know how that works with the S5 front counterweight and it doesn't solve the problem that I only have 2/4 oil injector ports (custom intake manifold). To the OP: I would say this is the best option for your SA/FB. You can run dedicated premix in an auxiliary tank and run some nice synthetic oil in the engine. |
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04-12-2012, 12:05 PM | #9 |
Rotary Fan in Training
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I still have not found my omp. Can someone tell me what I am looking for and where it is located on my 1984 RX7 GSL-SE 13b?
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04-12-2012, 12:21 PM | #10 |
Lifetime Rotorhead
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I'm not as familiar with the FB, but it should be in the same place as the FC. Look for it low on the engine's front cover, same side as the intake & exhaust manifolds. It will have some banjo fittings & tubing coming off of it that leads to the oil injectors. The FB will also have a mechnaical rod linkage that goes from the throttle body (GSL-SE model) or to the carb (all other non-FI model SA/FB's)
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04-16-2012, 10:46 AM | #12 |
Rotary Fan in Training
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Thanks, found it. It seems the Marvel Mystery Oil is just as cheap as the TCW3 at O'Reily's so I bought some. So 1 oz per gallon (128:1) along with the omp?
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04-16-2012, 11:26 AM | #13 |
Sigh.....
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128:1 is the going rate that most recommend. There's been some debate on using MMO instead of TCW3. I personally wouldn't use MMO, but a lot of people do and don't seem to have any problems.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
04-22-2012, 01:42 AM | #14 | |
Temporarily insane.
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Premix and OMP. Safer than sorry route. I haven't owned an FB in several years now (and I miss my old ones), but that is how I run in my Rx8 now.
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Quote:
For my collection of short stories: Kindle Nook |
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04-26-2012, 09:05 PM | #15 |
RX-7 NUT
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Please do not use MMO!!!!!!!!
It was never designed to serve as the kind of lubricant you need. I use Idemitsu cause it is designed for the rotary, but any TCW3 will work fine. Using the MMO will IMHO seriously shorten the live of your apex seals, especially if it sees much high rpm use. The MMO is good for loosening a carbon locked engine, but not for lubrication. 2 cents |