FC3S Murray's never ending build.

[FC3S Murray]

So when I get to the removal of the counter wieght, I wonder if I should remove the rear stationary gear THEN remove the rear iron. Tell me if my thinking here is wrong, but with the rear stat gear out, removing the rear iron will allow for less chance of the rear stat gear possibly strike or nudge the engine.

Forgive me for the paranoia BUT i am freaking myself out due to all the bad joo joo that could happen if the motor shifts on me. I will have that bitch safety wired down with .040 wire around the base of the spark plugs. It shouldn't move.

I am so edgy right now because this is my LAST leg with this car. If it don't work, I am through and some one will have a new project. Kills me BUT time is non-existant and my priorities have changed since I have had this car the last 6 years.


I ordered a new water thermo sensor today since it wouldn't hurt. ALLsensors now are brand new on the motor. I also had to order a new pilot bearing seal since it was tore up when I removed the engine.

Should rip into her tonight OR tomorrow. Will have some pics of the crack up soon.

[vex]

Honestly I think your worries are unfounded with pulling the stat gear. If I were in your shoes I would probably just leave it in and have persons keeping in eye on the engine while you take off the rear. If you're still unsure about it you can always pull the stat gear and go from there. I would honestly be more concerned of moving the stat gear first because you already have the eccentric shaft there to help guide it straight up. If you have everything already torqued down and not shifting I would just let the eccentric shaft and gear guide you up and out without nudging anything.

Just my thoughts though. But then again, I would just strip the entire engine down and rebuild... but you do what you gotta do.

[FC3S Murray]

I am gonna leave the stat gear on and will remove it after the iron is off to replace the o-ring and rear main seal.

Originally Posted by vex

Just my thoughts though. But then again, I would just strip the entire engine down and rebuild... but you do what you gotta do.

I just can't justify a total tear down for this bull shit break. I am not gonna fork out more cash on this pig when this should be an easy BUT percise procedure. Waste of time in my opinion to rebuild unless you just want practice. I would like to do it BUT I get maybe an HOUR of free time every two days. Maybe when I get some extra leave from work.

[vex]

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

I am gonna leave the stat gear on and will remove it after the iron is off to replace the o-ring and rear main seal.




I just can't justify a total tear down for this bull shit break. I am not gonna fork out more cash on this pig when this should be an easy BUT percise procedure. Waste of time in my opinion to rebuild unless you just want practice. I would like to do it BUT I get maybe an HOUR of free time every two days. Maybe when I get some extra leave from work.

Yeah, I understand. I'm just anal. I tore down my just rebuilt engine because I couldn't physically remember placing all the fire seals in the engine and I had one left off. Took me an hour to tear it down and rebuild after that. But if you can just pull it and look and fix what you gotta fix do it.

[TitaniumTT]

Removing the rear stat gear from the rear iron without being able to pound it out from the combustion arear I would thing would be pretty tough. With the block safety wired it shouldn't move and the e-shaft will keep the rotor in place. Things I would watch for are side/corner seals coming out of place, assist pieces moving around as well. Actually, I would take the rotor out VERY carefully and reglue the apex seals to make sure they don't bind and ruin a housing becuase, that would suck

[FC3S Murray]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Removing the rear stat gear from the rear iron without being able to pound it out from the combustion arear I would thing would be pretty tough. With the block safety wired it shouldn't move and the e-shaft will keep the rotor in place. Things I would watch for are side/corner seals coming out of place, assist pieces moving around as well. Actually, I would take the rotor out VERY carefully and reglue the apex seals to make sure they don't bind and ruin a housing becuase, that would suck

I have a special tool to remove the Stat gear. However I am just gonna leave it in. As for the seals, I knew about the glue used to keep the seals in place but what is the actual name of the glue?

I start to remove the JB weld I put all over the crack tonight.......that will be fun

[vex]

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

I have a special tool to remove the Stat gear. However I am just gonna leave it in. As for the seals, I knew about the glue used to keep the seals in place but what is the actual name of the glue?

I start to remove the JB weld I put all over the crack tonight.......that will be fun

It's just an anaerobic sealant. Think a loctite that lets go at a temperature higher than 300F

[FC3S Murray]

Good to know. I have a shit load of locktite.

[vex]

I personally just used vasoline or the safeway equivalent. Just held the seals together while the engine was getting assembled. Not much trouble. For a more accurate description, check out the FSM. They tell you what number loctite to use.

[classicauto]

I just use crazy glue. I set the calipers a couple thou wider then the housing, lock them in place, glue small piece of seal, jam against the large piece inside the caliper.

Sets them all to get broken (off the glue) when you torque down the keg, and holds them in place for a sec while the glue dries, works ducky!

[TitaniumTT]

Watch out for this guy............ he's a thinker.

Crazy glue is what I've used in the past. Can get the exact name for you if you like. I had to glue my RA Super seals together. I place them on my stainless work bench on top of a piece of that releaseable tin foil with the waxed edge facing up. I use an old unwarped apex seal that I lay as a guide so the assist piece and the seal are on the same plan. A dab on the assit piece and place the assist piece against the Apex seal with the old seal keeping them lined up. Then I fold the wax paper over the seal and using a second old apex seal sandwich the foil between the piece being glued and the old apex seal. Hold for thirty seconds or so, peel it off the foil and using carb cleaner remove the excess glue. Otherwise, the assist piece will break off as you try to slide it down the rotor.

Joes method is way cooler though.

[FC3S Murray]

Holy shit I have been busy. At this rate I won't get the damn engine in 'til mid August. I need to hustle.

Anyway, I was able to get some free time last night and "sand" off that fucking JB Weld

Here is the abomination before I ripped into it



AND afterwords





I ended up rounding the edge of the rear rotor housing a little bit. Regardless I can catch my finger nail on the rear iron and rear rotor housing mating surface. It should just come off easy now.

Tomorrow I will safety wire the rear and front rotor housings tight to the exhaust studs to secure it from lifting and shifting water seals upon disassembly.

MAN that shit went everywhere when I put the dremel to it. MESSY but those sand paper flapper wheels are the bomb!

I will update soon.

[FC3S Murray]

Well my engine is fucked. Rear iron had no crack, O-ring by dowel was shot (crazy I know). Upon inspection I found some crazy shit. I tore engine down completely. I will post pics tonight of the "great" port jobs and part condition.

HOWEVER I am looking for some rotor housings.

[TitaniumTT]

You have a PM, Sean We'll get ya back on the road pronto.

[classicauto]

What? Shitacular.

Awaiting carnage pics/info....ahh the elegant dance of the rebuild