FC3S Murray's never ending build.

***TitaniumTT*** · 06-13-2009, 04:11 PM

Removing the rear stat gear from the rear iron without being able to pound it out from the combustion arear I would thing would be pretty tough. With the block safety wired it shouldn't move and the e-shaft will keep the rotor in place. Things I would watch for are side/corner seals coming out of place, assist pieces moving around as well. Actually, I would take the rotor out VERY carefully and reglue the apex seals to make sure they don't bind and ruin a housing becuase, that would suck

FC3S Murray · 06-15-2009, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Removing the rear stat gear from the rear iron without being able to pound it out from the combustion arear I would thing would be pretty tough. With the block safety wired it shouldn't move and the e-shaft will keep the rotor in place. Things I would watch for are side/corner seals coming out of place, assist pieces moving around as well. Actually, I would take the rotor out VERY carefully and reglue the apex seals to make sure they don't bind and ruin a housing becuase, that would suck

I have a special tool to remove the Stat gear. However I am just gonna leave it in. As for the seals, I knew about the glue used to keep the seals in place but what is the actual name of the glue?

I start to remove the JB weld I put all over the crack tonight.......that will be fun

vex · 06-15-2009, 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

I have a special tool to remove the Stat gear. However I am just gonna leave it in. As for the seals, I knew about the glue used to keep the seals in place but what is the actual name of the glue?

I start to remove the JB weld I put all over the crack tonight.......that will be fun

It's just an anaerobic sealant. Think a loctite that lets go at a temperature higher than 300F

06-13-2009, 04:11 PM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Removing the rear stat gear from the rear iron without being able to pound it out from the combustion arear I would thing would be pretty tough. With the block safety wired it shouldn't move and the e-shaft will keep the rotor in place. Things I would watch for are side/corner seals coming out of place, assist pieces moving around as well. Actually, I would take the rotor out VERY carefully and reglue the apex seals to make sure they don't bind and ruin a housing becuase, that would suck __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**