1992 Miata, LS1, then LS3 swapped

[mazpower]

Originally Posted by lh6601

You = badass.
Damn nice Miata.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

Sweet! No worries anymore with lubrication

The pan is a really nice piece. It just didn't want to clear my crank even though I was told it would. There's nothing like hustling your ass off to swap the pan and build -10 oil lines so you can get home by midnight, and firing it up to hear thud thud thud. Had to take it back apart the next day, bang the pan out to clear my #1 rod, and all was well.

Originally Posted by Duffman692002

Just with the crank hitting the pan.

Originally Posted by Monkman33

wow, you wreck v8's like most people destroy rotaries.. LOL

You're not pushing it hard enough if you're not breaking shit.

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Ahhhhhhh, I remember this build from post 29 on... I even see one of my welds

You guys have no idea how quick this car is.... it rearranged my internal organs on acceleration. The torque just doesn't stop.... it's odd.... it like not a rotary

Glad you're loving the dash Glenn.... sorry you had to see it

Wait till you ride in it when you come out. If you thought it was fast before...

The dash is awesome! I just need to get my oil temp sensor hooked up to it and everything will be complete!

[HickamHatch]

Which haltech model are you running? I have platinum sport 2000 from
Old build and was hoping to use it on my ls1 but i see that the it only goes to 6 cyl direct fire. Please let me know how you set up your haltech and which model. Thanks!

[just startn]

Deff needs 2 turbos.

[Force13b]

Originally Posted by just startn

Deff needs 2 turbos.

i'm not sure where they would fit.

[djmtsu]

Originally Posted by Force13b

i'm not sure where they would fit.

Rear mount. Plenty of room where the muffler sits

[mazpower]

Originally Posted by HickamHatch

Which haltech model are you running? I have platinum sport 2000 from
Old build and was hoping to use it on my ls1 but i see that the it only goes to 6 cyl direct fire. Please let me know how you set up your haltech and which model. Thanks!

I'm running a E11v2. You can run a LS1 no problem with a P2000S. You'll have to set it up to run sequential injection and waste spark ignition. Just pair the cylinders for waste spark (one on compression, other on exhaust stroke) and use the 4 ignition outputs. Make sure to use the earlier 24 tooth wheel, not the newer 50-something tooth wheel on your crank.

Originally Posted by Force13b

i'm not sure where they would fit.

Yeah that would be interesting.

[FastKat]

You have an awesome car!

So you put the LS1 Camaro alternator in the G8 bracket, and that gave you the closer accessory spacing as used on the G8, CTS-V, Corvette, etc, right? Did you need to make any modifications to the G8 bracket or the Camaro alternator? What did you use for the rear alternator support - the G8 rear bracket?

[yzf-r1]

Ultimate sleeper...

[MazdaMike]

You sir have a death wish. That thing is just mental, id probably kill myself tracking it haha.

[Mazdabater]

Any updates on this thing, was one of my favourite builds

[mazpower]

Just been plugging away on it.

I took it to DGRR back in April. 5000 miles, 70 hours, averaged 26 mpg.









It started making a weird thumping sound in Louisiana...about 1800 miles into the trip. I thought it was the tranny but a friend suggested I replace the throwout bearing. So we did that outside the cabin when we got there and the noise persisted. Found out last weekend that it was because 5 of the 6 flywheel bolts came loose. I followed ARP's torque specs, so much for that. I used red loctite this time, hopefully they don't come loose again.

I recently put a dual wideband setup on it that interfaces with the Haltech and found that the original wideband I used to tune the setup was reading lean and the mixture was far too rich. I leaned it out some and found some more power according to the butt dyno. I've got a chassis dyno coming in a week or so and I'm gonna do some fine tuning with it, see where the power is at. Feels like 460ish at the wheels.

I ran a couple liter bikes a month ago, a new Kawi ZX-10R and slightly older Yamaha R1. By the top of 3rd I was pulling on them a good deal.

Next month I'm gonna start gathering piping and flanges to build a new set of headers for it. The current headers have 1 1/2" primaries and 2.5" collectors. The new headers will have 1 3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. I'm gonna rework the entire exhaust system too, 3" duals all the way back instead of the 2.5" it is now. Then a new set of true LS3 heads and a 102mm intake and TB and hopefully I'll be over 500 wheel HP.

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by mazpower

It started making a weird thumping sound in Louisiana...about 1800 miles into the trip. I thought it was the tranny but a friend suggested I replace the throwout bearing. So we did that outside the cabin when we got there and the noise persisted. Found out last weekend that it was because 5 of the 6 flywheel bolts came loose. I followed ARP's torque specs, so much for that. I used red loctite this time, hopefully they don't come loose again.

I was crewing for a stock car running a chevy 250 straight 6 a number of years ago. Had the same problem. No matter what we did it would spit off flywheels, even the LocTite didn't help. It turned out it was some sort of weird harmonic that kept loosening the bolts. We put a Fluidampr front vibration dampener on it and it cured the problem.

[mazpower]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

I was crewing for a stock car running a chevy 250 straight 6 a number of years ago. Had the same problem. No matter what we did it would spit off flywheels, even the LocTite didn't help. It turned out it was some sort of weird harmonic that kept loosening the bolts. We put a Fluidampr front vibration dampener on it and it cured the problem.

Interesting...I'm running a SLP front dampener on this build cause its keyed, as is my crankshaft and I wanted solid timing marks (LSx engines don't have keyed pullies or cranks from the factory, no timing marks either). The engine is pretty damn smooth through the rev range. I've heard that spec clutch assemblies can be out of balance though, I wonder if that contributed to it? I've been running the same flywheel/clutch combo since the beginning and this is the first time I've had this happen.

[GySgtFrank]

Originally Posted by mazpower

Interesting...I'm running a SLP front dampener on this build cause its keyed, as is my crankshaft and I wanted solid timing marks (LSx engines don't have keyed pullies or cranks from the factory, no timing marks either). The engine is pretty damn smooth through the rev range. I've heard that spec clutch assemblies can be out of balance though, I wonder if that contributed to it? I've been running the same flywheel/clutch combo since the beginning and this is the first time I've had this happen.

It may not happen again, who knows. The six we were running had been internally balanced when the engine was built and it ran very smooth. Had the flywheel and clutch rebalanced too, didn't help. One of those weird things that you couldn't really tell just listening to it. It may be a balance issue or like you said it may just be the bolts, maybe something else. Have to see if it holds this time.

[mazpower]

Wow, I haven't posted here in a while.

Since my last post I've made another cross-country trip, this time to Jax Florida, DGRR and then back home. No major issues. I've made some changes to the Miata, I need to put pictures up. In the meantime here's the most recent dyno run, done yesterday in 99 degree shop heat with the car's new water/meth injection system.