Why go to the trouble? ........... - Page 2

My5ABaby · 02-14-2011, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RXTASY

It is absolutely the fastest thing I have ever had underneath me.

That's what she said?

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-14-2011, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

I concur...
With the weight and suspension set-up, 300...350hp makes for a very FUN drive.
It's enough power to walk away from over 90% of the cars out there.
But...
It's always been ingrained by society to be the best...the fastest...#1...
It all ends up being mostly bragging rights in the end.
How many of us can handle 500...600hp safely?
I'll be the first to admit it scares me.

About the 20B specifically...
The added torque is a plus.
The 13B out of boost doesn't have the torque that the extra rotor provides.
I'm not talking about all-out race conditions, but daily driving just putting around on the street...
It's nice to not have to downshift all the time.

-Ted

Enter the sequential twin turbo

lets put it this way.... when my tranny got jammed between 5th and 6th I got stuck at a light.... the tools behind me (in a boosted jetta) was being a total ass. When the light turned green and I managed to get through the left hand turn onto a 2 lane rd he tried to pass me.... idle in 5th is about 15mph... I stomped on it and he couldn't get around me... from idle. His rear got to about my front bumper before I got into decent power but still, he couldn't get around me in 5th from idle..

is what he got when I pulled away from him

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herblenny

I agree with you Ted.. my skill level is right around 300 rwhp on the FD...

That being said, I also agree regarding anything above that being just to show off... Hence why I'm building a 20B.. But mainly for 'show' purpose (hopefully 600RWHP). But I know, its not going to be fun except going straight line.

Traction control!!!! Hopefully this will be dialed in for Deals, you've gotta drive her Phil... it'll be like a reunion.... your ass in your old seats

Quote:

Originally Posted by My5ABaby

That's what she said?

Again!!?!?!?!!

diabolical1 · 02-15-2011, 02:20 AM

i get what you're saying. all things being equal, it all comes down to know-how and self-honesty. however, for many, it's all egos, self-delusions and plain stupidity. many people don't seem to want to accept that there is a difference between a street car, a streetable car, a raceable car and a race car. compromises can be made, but at the risk of sounding self-righteous, if you look at a 700 HP 13B Rx-7 and think "4 season daily driver", then you're probably an idiot.

forget the 20B arguments for a minute. one of my pet peeves on the other board has always been the insistence by some people to go out and buy JC 13Bs for FBs and FCs because they need the "extra strength" for the BNR Stage 2 or T04S projects. a little bit of extra time and careful application would net good results on a S4 or S5 13BT - bottomline is you could build a really FAST car with those "lesser" blocks. it vexes me to no end when those same retards report back a month later - Cosmo engine all blown to shit ... at a whopping 340 HP.

RICE RACING · 02-15-2011, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diabolical1

i get what you're saying. all things being equal, it all comes down to know-how and self-honesty. however, for many, it's all egos, self-delusions and plain stupidity. many people don't seem to want to accept that there is a difference between a street car, a streetable car, a raceable car and a race car. compromises can be made, but at the risk of sounding self-righteous, if you look at a 700 HP 13B Rx-7 and think "4 season daily driver", then you're probably an idiot.

forget the 20B arguments for a minute. one of my pet peeves on the other board has always been the insistence by some people to go out and buy JC 13Bs for FBs and FCs because they need the "extra strength" for the BNR Stage 2 or T04S projects. a little bit of extra time and careful application would net good results on a S4 or S5 13BT - bottomline is you could build a really FAST car with those "lesser" blocks. it vexes me to no end when those same retards report back a month later - Cosmo engine all blown to shit ... at a whopping 340 HP.

I agree!

FFS I had 590bhp from a S5 block no poofter extra dowels in 1997!

Made many other cars based on S4 and S5 blocks all on stock manifolds and all at similar power and the owners NEVER ever wanted for anything more.

The world is getting stupider with the advent of the internet rather than smarter is seems to me. BDC has allot to do with it

***Herblenny*** · 02-15-2011, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Traction control!!!! Hopefully this will be dialed in for Deals, you've gotta drive her Phil... it'll be like a reunion.... your ass in your old seats

:

Can't wait!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by diabolical1

i get what you're saying. all things being equal, it all comes down to know-how and self-honesty. however, for many, it's all egos, self-delusions and plain stupidity. many people don't seem to want to accept that there is a difference between a street car, a streetable car, a raceable car and a race car. compromises can be made, but at the risk of sounding self-righteous, if you look at a 700 HP 13B Rx-7 and think "4 season daily driver", then you're probably an idiot.

forget the 20B arguments for a minute. one of my pet peeves on the other board has always been the insistence by some people to go out and buy JC 13Bs for FBs and FCs because they need the "extra strength" for the BNR Stage 2 or T04S projects. a little bit of extra time and careful application would net good results on a S4 or S5 13BT - bottomline is you could build a really FAST car with those "lesser" blocks. it vexes me to no end when those same retards report back a month later - Cosmo engine all blown to shit ... at a whopping 340 HP.

I agree.. In modern era with 500+HP cars weighing 3500+ with all the modern idiot proof cars could be daily driven.. but our RX7 era with sub 3000lbs with no idiot proof electronics, it requires 'actual' driving skills.
Like I said before, and I have said to many many people at shows, I'm just not 'talented' as some to handle 500+ HP cars. Straight line and maybe at a drag strip, I might be.. But personally, my 300 HP ish, seq twin, FD is enough for me to have fun. I just can't wait to get my silver FD running good so I could go Rice Rice baby on my MB and make it useless

***ZGN*** · 02-15-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herblenny

Can't wait!!
I just can't wait to get my silver FD running good so I could go Rice Rice baby on my MB and make it useless

hahahahah I got to meet the ice man once

we need to meet up and do some local bham night runs...

GorillaRE · 02-15-2011, 11:46 AM

You are missing the biggest point here... Horse power SELLS, period. It's just the way the performance car world works.

-J

RICE RACING · 02-15-2011, 03:28 PM

oh forgot to mention........ I am building a 1400bhp 4 rotor twin turbo road car that will weight 2000lb

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-15-2011, 07:09 PM

Bullshit until we see pics with some cute little blonde holding a sign that says Join RCC

Ian · 02-16-2011, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

I just was thinking of this after coming back for a 300km drive just now.

Why on earth would you want more power than a 13B turbo can deliver in a properly set up street car? in particular the headaches of 3 rotor transplant.

Out on the highway in my RICESP it is impossible to use full power in 1st, 2nd gears, 3rd gear is very dangerous using it to pass traffic that is doing 65mph or just over 100kmh.... it accelerates so stupidly quickly that literally in just over 2 seconds you are at 100mph and today nearly of 5 different occasions I almost lost it changing lanes, absolutely stupid levels of mid range power and instant response 4k to 8.5k I have yet to be beaten by anything and really shock the fuck out of many sports bikes! If you are game you grab 4th gear and keep onto it and do over 140mph and trust me its very very quick, you are not counting jesus beads waiting for it to happen, I am still yet to be able to look at any instruments when really on it like this (apart from quick glance at tach on shifts). 200+mph is but a formality and simply down to the size of your balls nothing else.

Now these are no hand grenades either been running like this on pump petrol and water injection for well over 8000km and still perfect compression. Economy is flat out unbelievable on 40lt I do 300km distance and that is driving like a mad man and really enjoying it at every opportunity.

So why go to a bigger engine?????
I don't know how the hell you can use more "torque", let alone power, I mean I have to detune my 13B so its not so dangerous on the road, and even so extreme caution needs to be exercised. so what is the go? do people just do it for the noise? or do they not know how to make a 13B fast reliable and durable?

8000km is dick all! And 400rwhp on the street is not fast

Come tune my car. Its dyno proven 400rwhp and see if you can make a difference. I will strap it on the dyno and do a pull. You perform your magic and see if there is a difference. If you don't tune my car then your full of shit. Read between the lines....

P.S that is 400+rwhp, two ems (Moving to the Platinum2000 and two turbo changes and over 60,0000km++++

Any fighting words in there for ya....

sen2two · 02-18-2011, 10:16 PM

My street car (1990 TII) has the stock untouched turbo, never even opened up motor and stock ECU. Just modified all the stock existing parts tuned with a NEO and still will break the tires loose all the way from 1st to 3rd. Even rolling in 3rd, the tires will break loose. these are 255 wide tires that are decently sticky...

I have learned that for a daily, TII and FD's do not need any "real" upgrades. Anything more is just for fun but is not really usable unless your some dumb fuck doing 65+ mph rolls on the highway... gayyyy

***TitaniumTT*** · 02-18-2011, 10:44 PM

You need to try to dial in the rear suspension a little more. At over 400rwhp 3rd will barely break loose on 255/40's and I should have >100 whp over a stock ht18

RICE RACING · 02-18-2011, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian

8000km is dick all! And 400rwhp on the street is not fast

Come tune my car. Its dyno proven 400rwhp and see if you can make a difference. I will strap it on the dyno and do a pull. You perform your magic and see if there is a difference. If you don't tune my car then your full of shit. Read between the lines....

P.S that is 400+rwhp, two ems (Moving to the Platinum2000 and two turbo changes and over 60,0000km++++

Any fighting words in there for ya....

8000km at high duty cycle (percentage of time at full power and revs) is different to 60,000+++km on lower duty cycle...

Differences aside...

I have had and done this since 1997 (590bhp first gen) 478rearhubhp (< measured at lower boost), much more than estOjet fictional figures (prob 500+ lol) 60,000km no problems, done the same on many other customers cars and repeated the HP and distance covered easily

As the last poster eluded to, it is BDC super gay wanting more though sometimes we all have an inner rampant homo pony tail non intercooled 25psi gene wanting to come out from the closet aka more powerz

RICE RACING · 02-18-2011, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sen2two

My street car (1990 TII) has the stock untouched turbo, never even opened up motor and stock ECU. Just modified all the stock existing parts tuned with a NEO and still will break the tires loose all the way from 1st to 3rd. Even rolling in 3rd, the tires will break loose. these are 255 wide tires that are decently sticky...

I have learned that for a daily, TII and FD's do not need any "real" upgrades. Anything more is just for fun but is not really usable unless your some dumb fuck doing 65+ mph rolls on the highway... gayyyy

Dude! you need some tires and suspension lol. My thing making 550bhp (~25psi, TO4Z, Don Mega set up) on 255's and Ohlin's dialed in will "just" break the tires rolling in 3rd gear. You would have 200+bhp less and more weight helping traction. Are you sure you don't have an open differential and a set of nankangs that are harder than Peter North's wang?

sen2two · 02-19-2011, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

You need to try to dial in the rear suspension a little more. At over 400rwhp 3rd will barely break loose on 255/40's and I should have >100 whp over a stock ht18

Quote:

Originally Posted by RICE RACING

Dude! you need some tires and suspension lol. My thing making 550bhp (~25psi, TO4Z, Don Mega set up) on 255's and Ohlin's dialed in will "just" break the tires rolling in 3rd gear. You would have 200+bhp less and more weight helping traction. Are you sure you don't have an open differential and a set of nankangs that are harder than Peter North's wang?

Its a s4 TII diff. The rear is a little stiff. I have Cusco coilovers and solid mounts everywhere. So that's part of it. And I have a fuel cell which takes a lot of the weight out of the rear reducing traction some also. But I'm not worried about that. I have a set of Weld Pro stars with some M/T slicks and skinnies for the front when I want it to hook

02-15-2011, 11:46 AM	#22
GorillaRE Outside the "box"...... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: New Orleans Posts: 123 Rep Power: 18	You are missing the biggest point here... Horse power SELLS, period. It's just the way the performance car world works. -J __________________ " Life is full of trials and tribulations, misery is optional." -Mark D. White RIP man, we love you... We specialize in Rotary, Japanese, European and Exotic performance forced induction cars. We also custom build 3/4 multi-rotor engine setups for the street or track. We are the only authorized Fujita Engineering dealer in the USA. Call for authentic FEED parts. Call for ECU tuning. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Gorilla-Race-Engineering/43530496660

02-15-2011, 03:28 PM	#23
RICE RACING Don Mega Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Utopia Posts: 1,688 Rep Power: 18	oh forgot to mention........ I am building a 1400bhp 4 rotor twin turbo road car that will weight 2000lb __________________ www.riceracing.com.au Worlds best Apex Seals Coil on Plug Water Injection ECU Calibration

02-15-2011, 07:09 PM	#24
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Bullshit until we see pics with some cute little blonde holding a sign that says Join RCC __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

02-18-2011, 10:16 PM	#26
sen2two KTEC Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 642 Rep Power: 0	My street car (1990 TII) has the stock untouched turbo, never even opened up motor and stock ECU. Just modified all the stock existing parts tuned with a NEO and still will break the tires loose all the way from 1st to 3rd. Even rolling in 3rd, the tires will break loose. these are 255 wide tires that are decently sticky... I have learned that for a daily, TII and FD's do not need any "real" upgrades. Anything more is just for fun but is not really usable unless your some dumb fuck doing 65+ mph rolls on the highway... gayyyy __________________ what I have: 1985 Gs:12a All motor Drag car - 1973 Rx2: Play car What I had: 93 Touring: TRADED - 91 Coupe: TRADED - 90 GTU: RHD - 88 10AE: SOLD - 87 Base: SOLD - 86 Base: SOLD - 1985 GSLSE - 85 Gsl: SOLD - 80 Gs: TRADED - 1972 Rx2

02-18-2011, 10:44 PM	#27
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	You need to try to dial in the rear suspension a little more. At over 400rwhp 3rd will barely break loose on 255/40's and I should have >100 whp over a stock ht18 __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

02-15-2011, 02:20 AM	#18
diabolical1 I have radioactive semen Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: in a bottle of Glenfiddich Posts: 249 Rep Power: 17	i get what you're saying. all things being equal, it all comes down to know-how and self-honesty. however, for many, it's all egos, self-delusions and plain stupidity. many people don't seem to want to accept that there is a difference between a street car, a streetable car, a raceable car and a race car. compromises can be made, but at the risk of sounding self-righteous, if you look at a 700 HP 13B Rx-7 and think "4 season daily driver", then you're probably an idiot. forget the 20B arguments for a minute. one of my pet peeves on the other board has always been the insistence by some people to go out and buy JC 13Bs for FBs and FCs because they need the "extra strength" for the BNR Stage 2 or T04S projects. a little bit of extra time and careful application would net good results on a S4 or S5 13BT - bottomline is you could build a really FAST car with those "lesser" blocks. it vexes me to no end when those same retards report back a month later - Cosmo engine all blown to shit ... at a whopping 340 HP.