Norwegian S4 Base TII - Page 2

nate · 01-01-2011, 12:02 AM

Good progress. Much rust on the underbody?

Pettersen · 01-01-2011, 07:32 PM

No, the underbody was done by the last owner, and from what i can tell the only place there is rust under the car is on the rear tow hook

I tried the mig today, probably going to take a little while before i'm good enough to weld anything on the car tho.

Pettersen · 01-16-2011, 07:00 PM

Gas tank is out, so now i can start prepping and welding

Also took of the entire exhaust to get rid of all leaks, and to get rid of the tension in the downpipe.

Pettersen · 01-26-2011, 08:10 AM

Welded up everything that had to be welded, but my dad wants the garage back since he wants it for his new car :/ so i haveto start putting the car back togheter, and postpone the full restoration until i have a place of my own.

Anyway, New stuff from mazdatrix

Gasket for oil pan, defroster covers, spark plugs, fuel filter with mountings, rotary key ring and some mazdatrix stuff + candy

Pettersen · 01-28-2011, 06:20 PM

Some parts for the downpipe/wastegate arrived today

Pettersen · 03-02-2011, 09:10 AM

More parts

Turbo timer (previous owner installed a non watercooled turbo :/ )
Banzai racing oil pan brace
TCS rear camber adjuster
Greddy elbow

Pettersen · 03-12-2011, 04:33 PM

Finally got time to work a little on the car, installed most of the interior, removed fuel lines and changed fuel filter.

Only got pictures of the interior tho.

(FC guys know why i took this pic

)

Pettersen · 04-10-2011, 11:05 AM

Got the exhaust all welded up, only need to change oil, oilgasket and mount the banzai oil pan brace before i'm ready for emission testing

Feels realy good firing it up again

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upYfMjkfiqk

Pettersen · 04-19-2011, 03:21 PM

Made a buttplug for the exhaust, it's only a temporary solution until i can either modify or make a new exhaust.
But the sound is much lower, so it's livable inside the car now, + it's easy to remove for trackdays and general spirited driving

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtujp6dypM0

Pettersen · 04-21-2011, 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max777

Something about the extra amount of flow compared to the stock turbo at the same pressure level, causing it to go a bit lean. Do you have a Wide Band oxygen sensor to monitor the AFR ratios? I'm curious about how the afr's look under load.

Really, I'm just amazed to see this setup work, didn't know it was possible to run a different turbo w/o a standalone.

Just mounted a wide band, the car doesn't have plates on it now, so i just have idle numbers. It runs a bit rich to say the least, 10-10.5 AFR on idle. Will post numbers i get under load when i get it on the road again

Pettersen · 04-22-2011, 12:09 PM

Made a temporary holder for my gauges.

And finally fixed the oil leak, put in a new gasket and a oil pan brace with studs,

Pettersen · 05-14-2011, 05:04 PM

Mounted some "styling" on the rear tow hook

Pettersen · 05-24-2011, 05:58 AM

Bought some different wires and accesories to clean up the engine bay, the gauge holder is for my Neon. Looking forward to getting started working on my car's, summer vacation FTW

Thumper · 05-24-2011, 06:20 AM

Looks good, was it a pain to put in that oil pan brace with the engine installed? I have one that i still need to install.

Pettersen · 05-24-2011, 06:51 AM

Well i was in a garage with a garage pit, and i had help. But no it wasn't to difficult, just as long as you support the engine properly so it doesn't move when you take off the engine mount. The first time i had a jack underneath but the engine still shifted enough to make it a pita to get the engine mount back on, and with the engine further down the studs where almost impossible to get in some places, so i used some 2"4" and supported the engine from the top and it didn't move at all.

You can use an allen key on most of the studs, but on the front row i used two nuts thightened agains each other, and a little ratchet with and extender and a angle thingy(picture i don't know what it's called in english), it's a bit fiddly but it's doable.

Also a warning, it's probably not possible to get the oil pan on without scratching agaisnt the studs, so i had the sealent on the block, not the pan.

01-01-2011, 12:02 AM	#16
nate Not a fan of rust... Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Chicagoland! Posts: 4 Rep Power: 0	Good progress. Much rust on the underbody? __________________ 88 vert 87 SE

01-01-2011, 07:32 PM	#17
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	No, the underbody was done by the last owner, and from what i can tell the only place there is rust under the car is on the rear tow hook I tried the mig today, probably going to take a little while before i'm good enough to weld anything on the car tho.

01-16-2011, 07:00 PM	#18
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Gas tank is out, so now i can start prepping and welding Also took of the entire exhaust to get rid of all leaks, and to get rid of the tension in the downpipe.

01-26-2011, 08:10 AM	#19
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Welded up everything that had to be welded, but my dad wants the garage back since he wants it for his new car :/ so i haveto start putting the car back togheter, and postpone the full restoration until i have a place of my own. Anyway, New stuff from mazdatrix Gasket for oil pan, defroster covers, spark plugs, fuel filter with mountings, rotary key ring and some mazdatrix stuff + candy

01-28-2011, 06:20 PM	#20
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Some parts for the downpipe/wastegate arrived today

03-02-2011, 09:10 AM	#21
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	More parts Turbo timer (previous owner installed a non watercooled turbo :/ ) Banzai racing oil pan brace TCS rear camber adjuster Greddy elbow

03-12-2011, 04:33 PM	#22
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Finally got time to work a little on the car, installed most of the interior, removed fuel lines and changed fuel filter. Only got pictures of the interior tho. (FC guys know why i took this pic )

04-10-2011, 11:05 AM	#23
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Got the exhaust all welded up, only need to change oil, oilgasket and mount the banzai oil pan brace before i'm ready for emission testing Feels realy good firing it up again http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upYfMjkfiqk

04-19-2011, 03:21 PM	#24
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Made a buttplug for the exhaust, it's only a temporary solution until i can either modify or make a new exhaust. But the sound is much lower, so it's livable inside the car now, + it's easy to remove for trackdays and general spirited driving http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtujp6dypM0

04-22-2011, 12:09 PM	#26
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Made a temporary holder for my gauges. And finally fixed the oil leak, put in a new gasket and a oil pan brace with studs,

05-14-2011, 05:04 PM	#27
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Mounted some "styling" on the rear tow hook

05-24-2011, 05:58 AM	#28
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Bought some different wires and accesories to clean up the engine bay, the gauge holder is for my Neon. Looking forward to getting started working on my car's, summer vacation FTW

05-24-2011, 06:20 AM	#29
Thumper Backyard Mechanic Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 50 Rep Power: 15	Looks good, was it a pain to put in that oil pan brace with the engine installed? I have one that i still need to install.

05-24-2011, 06:51 AM	#30
Pettersen Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Norway Posts: 163 Rep Power: 16	Well i was in a garage with a garage pit, and i had help. But no it wasn't to difficult, just as long as you support the engine properly so it doesn't move when you take off the engine mount. The first time i had a jack underneath but the engine still shifted enough to make it a pita to get the engine mount back on, and with the engine further down the studs where almost impossible to get in some places, so i used some 2"4" and supported the engine from the top and it didn't move at all. You can use an allen key on most of the studs, but on the front row i used two nuts thightened agains each other, and a little ratchet with and extender and a angle thingy(picture i don't know what it's called in english), it's a bit fiddly but it's doable. Also a warning, it's probably not possible to get the oil pan on without scratching agaisnt the studs, so i had the sealent on the block, not the pan.