Pre-Mix

rx4ur7 · 10-09-2009, 11:23 AM

TT- Use synthetics only on sealed motors. ie no metering pump. Problems with them are that they do not mix with fuel and they do not serve as a lubricant under combustion. I do not know of any that are made for two stroke oil savaging use.
When Mobil 1 first came out I had a car come in that was using it for 3000 miles, it was forming hard silica like deposits on the rotors and spark plugs. Went back to petroleum and eventually they went away. He was lucky none broke loose.
Save your money and stick with oil if you still have metering system. If someone does guarantee that their synthetic was made specifically for two stroke use then that may be an option.

Raleigh- Should not make any difference in O/Pressure when disconnecting the metering system unless it was puking a lot of oil. Didn't have big temp change recently have you. Pressures can show higher here in the winter, but not that much. Different oil filter? Non-Mazda? I have used Mazda only since 72 and never had a problem. Remember everyone I am a factory freak.

Normally that could indicate a blockage somewhere, something going on with the oil filter, pressure regulator or relief valves. Would not think failure of part more something in one. I have never seen a failure of either. Have found foreign items.

Way back the way of changing oil included punching a hole in the oil filter to drain it. Trick was hitting it off center and just going through the can. Quick lube places were hammering them in the center and going deep. They bought a lot of motors because they knocked the check valve that is in top center down to the inlet oil port for the motor. The valve was a circular black plastic piece that if you did not look closely sat on top of the port. If you looked quickly everything looked fine. Put filter on customer drives a few miles and motor locks up.

TT - I will give kudos to those that think things out and are willing to try different things after doing a good bit of research, and they do not think they know more than factory engineers. (granted there are some exceptions) We have bantered before and I respect what you do. If anyone goes to my forum you will find my philosophy. If it ain’t broke and rarely does etc etc, KISS if one has to make a change and 99% of the time the factory know best. In my opinion the FC is the exception at 40%. Don’t flame me here my reasons will be posted on my forum.

dudemaaan · 10-09-2009, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rx4ur7

TT- Use synthetics only on sealed motors. ie no metering pump. Problems with them are that they do not mix with fuel and they do not serve as a lubricant under combustion. I do not know of any that are made for two stroke oil scavaging use.
When Mobil 1 first came out I had a car come in that was using it for 3000 miles, it was forming hard silica like deposits on the rotors and spark plugs. Went back to petroleum and eventually they went away. He was lucky none broke loose.
Save your money and stick with oil if you still have metering system. I someone does guarantee that their synthetic was made specifially for two stroke use then that may be an option.

This was a problem with the older synthetic oils, the new synthetics burn just fine and is perfectly safe to use with cars running the OMP

***TitaniumTT*** · 10-10-2009, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rx4ur7

TT- Use synthetics only on sealed motors. ie no metering pump. Problems with them are that they do not mix with fuel and they do not serve as a lubricant under combustion. I do not know of any that are made for two stroke oil savaging use.
When Mobil 1 first came out I had a car come in that was using it for 3000 miles, it was forming hard silica like deposits on the rotors and spark plugs. Went back to petroleum and eventually they went away. He was lucky none broke loose.
Save your money and stick with oil if you still have metering system. If someone does guarantee that their synthetic was made specifically for two stroke use then that may be an option.

Idemitsu claims that thier oil is intended for the rotary. I am assuming that they are referring to the metering system. Right now my OMP is blocked off from the sump and injecting 2-stroke Idemitsu. So far so good. We'll see. I'm running 10w30 and my turbo's are now leaking EVER so slightly...... damnit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rx4ur7

TT - I will give kudos to those that think things out and are willing to try different things after doing a good bit of research, and they do not think they know more than factory engineers. (granted there are some exceptions) We have bantered before and I respect what you do. If anyone goes to my forum you will find my philosophy. If it ain’t broke and rarely does etc etc, KISS if one has to make a change and 99% of the time the factory know best. In my opinion the FC is the exception at 40%. Don’t flame me here my reasons will be posted on my forum.

Why thank you.... I have spent 2.5 yrs planning this thing out and building it

Not to flame, and I did go to your homepage, but why that comment about the FC?

rx4ur7 · 10-11-2009, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Not to flame, and I did go to your homepage, but why that comment about the FC?

I will be posting my reasons there soon. And there is no offence intended to all of those of you that love them.

10-09-2009, 11:23 AM	#1
rx4ur7 Rotary since 1972 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson Posts: 231 Rep Power: 17	TT- Use synthetics only on sealed motors. ie no metering pump. Problems with them are that they do not mix with fuel and they do not serve as a lubricant under combustion. I do not know of any that are made for two stroke oil savaging use. When Mobil 1 first came out I had a car come in that was using it for 3000 miles, it was forming hard silica like deposits on the rotors and spark plugs. Went back to petroleum and eventually they went away. He was lucky none broke loose. Save your money and stick with oil if you still have metering system. If someone does guarantee that their synthetic was made specifically for two stroke use then that may be an option. Raleigh- Should not make any difference in O/Pressure when disconnecting the metering system unless it was puking a lot of oil. Didn't have big temp change recently have you. Pressures can show higher here in the winter, but not that much. Different oil filter? Non-Mazda? I have used Mazda only since 72 and never had a problem. Remember everyone I am a factory freak. Normally that could indicate a blockage somewhere, something going on with the oil filter, pressure regulator or relief valves. Would not think failure of part more something in one. I have never seen a failure of either. Have found foreign items. Way back the way of changing oil included punching a hole in the oil filter to drain it. Trick was hitting it off center and just going through the can. Quick lube places were hammering them in the center and going deep. They bought a lot of motors because they knocked the check valve that is in top center down to the inlet oil port for the motor. The valve was a circular black plastic piece that if you did not look closely sat on top of the port. If you looked quickly everything looked fine. Put filter on customer drives a few miles and motor locks up. TT - I will give kudos to those that think things out and are willing to try different things after doing a good bit of research, and they do not think they know more than factory engineers. (granted there are some exceptions) We have bantered before and I respect what you do. If anyone goes to my forum you will find my philosophy. If it ain’t broke and rarely does etc etc, KISS if one has to make a change and 99% of the time the factory know best. In my opinion the FC is the exception at 40%. Don’t flame me here my reasons will be posted on my forum. Last edited by rx4ur7; 10-09-2009 at 01:16 PM.