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Old 09-27-2009, 12:34 PM   #1
The Partsgroup
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Default RX8 Coilpack Failures

After only three race weekends we are having to replace the coilpacks to return the cars HP back to where it started. On our mustang dyno from testing prior to a double race weekend to after the race weekend we are losing 20 HP simply from the coilpacks. We simply replace all four and instantly the HP comes back? Every RX8 coil I have pulled not only race cars & street cars but all of our salvaged RX8's we part out all have a white spot on the bottom in the opoxy of the coil. I believe it may be heat related so we started running a duct to attempt to cool the coils with no luck either? I have researched guys running non mazda coils and wanted to see if anyone has tested different coils on a race track for long durations of time to see if non mazda coils hold up to the heat and if they are lasting longer then stock coils. I know this has been discussed before but I'm looking for someone that has real proof for a fix. I have talked with most the big name RX8 race teams and they run the factory coils but simply change them out. I would like a better solution! Anyone that can help please callme at 256-309-0492 or email me directly at parts@partsgroup.com . Thanks for any assistance!!!






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Old 09-27-2009, 01:52 PM   #2
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Check out www.blackhaloracing.com

Their ignition is not only more reliable it will also light a 8:1 AFR @ 9 PSI on a boosted RX8.....and I know that for a fact.
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Old 09-27-2009, 03:07 PM   #3
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+1 with Kane.
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:55 PM   #4
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I have the BHR coils as well. They work great on my turbo rx8. It is the best solution out there. They are yukon/LS2 truck coils basically all wrapped into a nice plug and play unit.
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:56 PM   #5
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I run the LS1 coils on my 13B-RE now and I plan to upgrade to either the Yukon LS2 truck coils or a set of Bosch coils that from what I understand have a dyno proven record of increasing torque across the RPM band.

FWIW those LS2 coils sell from GM parts direct for ~$60 and I bet you could find the connectors for around ~$5 for all you people that want some better spark without a huge bite in the wallet.
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
FWIW those LS2 coils sell from GM parts direct for ~$60 and I bet you could find the connectors for around ~$5 for all you people that want some better spark without a huge bite in the wallet.
...which will require cutting/splicing the OE harness - something most people will NOT want to do for one reason or another.

To the OP - White spots on the bottom of the coils mean NOTHING.
Nothing at all.

The only real test of the coils is resistance/inductance across the ignitor (the FSM has the specs) and using a timing light on the coil wires and look for misfires, which can be done free-revving, though it is better to check under load.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
I run the LS1 coils on my 13B-RE now and I plan to upgrade to either the Yukon LS2 truck coils or a set of Bosch coils that from what I understand have a dyno proven record of increasing torque across the RPM band.

FWIW those LS2 coils sell from GM parts direct for ~$60 and I bet you could find the connectors for around ~$5 for all you people that want some better spark without a huge bite in the wallet.
yeah you can get the coils and the harnesses all on ebay actually....Just gotta fab up a bracket for it

but like MM said, not everyone likes to splice into their factory coil harnesses
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:59 PM   #8
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I agree plug and play is certainly nice, I'm just saying that there are some of us that can weld and fab and are brave enough to cut into a factory harness, for those of us there is alot of $$ to be saved.

If I was doing this on an 8 I would cut way back into the factory harness and splice in a few metri-pack connectors and build two harnesses from there out. One using all the factory wires that could be pluged back in and one for the LS2 coils. The obvious better choice is to source the same connections as BHR did and build it yourself.

When building parts like this though you almost always have to make them plug and play so I definately agree with what BHR did and I'm not knocking thier product at all. Frankly, I think it kicks some pretty severe ass. However, this thread is here to help a race car where I'm sure the factory harness has already been stripped down if it's there at all. That's where I'm coming from in posting up about the cheapest way to get those coils on a Renni
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2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 09-30-2009, 02:17 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT View Post
The obvious better choice is to source the same connections as BHR did and build it yourself.
Yes. Try that.
You would be amazed at the power of bulk purchase and negotiation.
The price of the BHR system is largely based on making it not worthwhile for the end user to do it themselves.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mazdamaniac View Post
Yes. Try that.
You would be amazed at the power of bulk purchase and negotiation.
The price of the BHR system is largely based on making it not worthwhile for the end user to do it themselves.
Are you implying that BHR built those connectors themselves or that they wouldn't be available to the general public? Not saying that it wouldn't take some time to find them, and even if you couldn't, there are ways around them.

It wouldn't really amaze me as I have personally experienced it myself many many times both proffessionaly and for my own personal stuff. I rarely pay retail for any part I buy.

As for the pricing on the BHR kit, it's tough to set a price that will entice someone to buy without building it themselves yet still turn a profit. I still think it's a wonderful product but again, the OP is looking to put this on a race car, not his DD, so a different set of circumstances exist in the decision making process for him vs someone who drives their 8 everyday or who owns it as a toy and will at somepoint sell it or had warranty concerns.

Why do I feel like I'm being attacked here? I haven't knocked anything, spoken ill of any products or people, just offered a solution at half the cost.
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DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

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2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 10-02-2009, 11:04 AM   #11
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You're not being attacked...

I myself built my coil kit for far less than other places are selling theirs for...cost was a major issue for me. With a little know how and a little time and knowing where to get certain parts, this conversion can be done for under $250.

To the OP, I sent you an email.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:39 PM   #12
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Most people find that after all the time and energy spent on making a coil kit like BHR offers, it would have better to buy the kit and drop it in in less than an hour and drive away.
But this is a free country and people can do what they wish. Build a set and enjoy.
And TitaniumTT, no one is picking on you. They are just trying to show you the easiest solution to an issue.
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Old 10-03-2009, 12:03 AM   #13
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I dunno, maybe my panties are a little tight

I agree that for someone who doesn't have the time or tooling to mount coils, the BHR kit is the way to go. It would also be the way to go for someone who doesn't want to cut into a factory harness or someone who may want to return the car back to stock or any number of reasons. Personally, and I've said this before, I like the offering and I think the kit is fantastic. But when I saw racecar, it kinda opens up a whole different set of doors, no?
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DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 10-04-2009, 10:14 PM   #14
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Titanium, Jeff (MazdaManiac) and Charles from BHR work together last i knew. I think its great they offer a a good product. But some people like to do it themselves. Some people also think overkill is good, I am one of those. Why not do it yourself and make it how you want it? I agree on the racecar, drop it is no longer an issue as I bet they are no longer running the factory wiring harness. I wouldnt be, it would be a waste.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:06 PM   #15
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Believe it or not, the factory harness does more good than bad in a race car. I'm mean to save a few pounds it would be good to remove but whatever. Speedsource ran a full factory harness on their Koni 8's and they were unstoppable at one point.
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