Can i use a low/high-imp injector combination?

[Justen]

My mistake, they are 550 purples.

I don't think i will put the low imp injectors in untill i get a standalone anyway, because i hear 1600s will most likely dump to much fuel into the motor when they actaully kick on, especially with the higher fuel press of a Walbro.

...But this lag in the injector cycle that you mentioned, wouldnt it be compensated for when i have the standalone tuned?

If worse comes to worse i could try to find low imp primaries and solder in resistors for all four injector leads.

Suggestions?

[RotaryProphet]

Originally Posted by Justen

...But this lag in the injector cycle that you mentioned, wouldnt it be compensated for when i have the standalone tuned?

If worse comes to worse i could try to find low imp primaries and solder in resistors for all four injector leads.

Suggestions?

If you have a standalone that allows separate injector characteristics for different injector banks, then yes, that would solve the issue. Actually in that case, the ECU probably supports low impedance on one bank and high on another, so you wouldn't have any issue at all. Problem is, I'm unaware off the top of my head of any standalone ECU that does support that setup, save perhaps a Megasquirt, which has two totally separate injector driver circuits, and the software to tell it to use pulsewidth modulation and load clamping on the low impedance injectors, and full 12v on the high impedance side.

As for putting in low impedance injectors for primaries and using resistors all around, if you go standalone, just let them all be low impedance; just so long as you're not mixing, you'll be fine on almost any standalone. The only time you'd need to do that is if you're staying with the stock ECU.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by RotaryProphet

Problem is, I'm unaware off the top of my head of any standalone ECU that does support that setup, save perhaps a Megasquirt, which has two totally separate injector driver circuits, and the software to tell it to use pulsewidth modulation and load clamping on the low impedance injectors, and full 12v on the high impedance side.

Haltech's could do this from day one.
Previous models can handle up to a 1A current draw through each fuel injector channel.
If you wanted, you could mix and match high and low impedence to your hearts content, but I would not recomment doing that with each "bank" on a staged set-up.

Current Haltech models can control up to a 2A current draw, as some "high performance, motorsports" fuel injectors now ohm out down to 0.5-ohms.

Haltech's could always run low impedence fuel injectors on one bank and high impedence fuel injectors on the other without fuss.
No need for resistors...
No need for outboard impedence circuits or driver boxes...


-Ted

[RotaryProphet]

Originally Posted by RETed

Haltech's could always run low impedence fuel injectors on one bank and high impedence fuel injectors on the other without fuss.
No need for resistors...
No need for outboard impedence circuits or driver boxes...


-Ted

Well, there you go, Haltech can do it, too. I've never tuned one, but it's still nice to know.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by Justen

My mistake, they are 550 purples.

If they are 550's purple, then they are low impedence.
Do you have the fuel injectors resistor "box" located in the engine bar right behind the passenger side headlight?

...But this lag in the injector cycle that you mentioned, wouldnt it be compensated for when i have the standalone tuned?

Ignore all of that.
It really doesn't apply to you.

If worse comes to worse i could try to find low imp primaries and solder in resistors for all four injector leads.

Suggestions?

As you have already said, dropping 1600's without proper control is going to lead to a badly running engine.
Basically, once you go into boost, the engine will flood with no much fuel that the engine will conk out on you.
Don't bother worrying about such things until you get everything sorted out properly.


-Ted