How safe is 10psi ?

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by MrNizzles

Awesome threads on this forum, much better than that "other" forum...

Im running BNR 3s at 10psi with stock ecu, restrictor pills, intake, ic and all on 10k rebuilt stock motor with ss dp, stock main cat, and rb catback. So if BNR 3s flow more air, maybe somewhere between 2-3 extra psi ... how safe IS 10psi with little to no boost creep or spike?

of course I want a PFC and a coolingmist kit (or something similar) ... just wondering if I need this oh say, Tomorrow or maybe for x-mas

btw, awesome thread on the 13b-re sequential build with BNRs pushing 330... I can totally see that with all the porting and ceramic coatings... air flow must be really optimized. I suppose if he were pushing 360+ that would be harder to believe, but mostly I just wanna see PICS!

Those are stockers and I'm going back to KDR this Friday to up the boost to 15psi and look for 400 wheel. And my build thread is http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=6995

Originally Posted by dudemaaan

Narrow band sensors/gauges don't really have the resolution to be much help. And the voltage isn't linear outside of stoich. Basically they just aren't accurate. But at least you aren't seeing yellow or red.

Agreed, and these things should be run rich to the point where one or two points of AFR sends the thing in circles. Not useful at all really for a turbo rotary

Originally Posted by dudemaaan

Or you can get a wideband controller and gauge and check it yourself. Eventually you will need to get a pfc and a wideband would very helpful. If you plan on making any real power with the BNR's you'll need this stuff anyways.

I would've done that first but if everything is working perfect you MAY have some time, but I wouldn't push it by any means.

Originally Posted by Chadwick

You are asking for trouble, the BNR's are capable of 18+ psi. You are fine at 10 psi, but you never know when something will go wrong and you boost past 10 psi.

Case and point -
the engine is slowed down on the dyno and I went there with the PID set up and the normal position table adjusted. She held 9 psi SOLID all day long. That night, boost cut @ 175 kpa. So even when you think you're OK, you're not necissarily.

Originally Posted by Chadwick

I personally get tired of everyone say " you will be ok... if" Shit happens and the rotary gets a bad name because of it. These motors are extremely sensitive to two things, heat and running lean, other than that they are pretty much bullet proof. You spent the money for the turbos, now spend a bit more for a PFC and upgraded fuel system. If not, give me a call when the motor blows and I will be happy to rebuild it for you .


Take care,
Dan

More case and point -

Engine #3. Fuel PSI gauge puked on the drive to the dyno. Pressure was fine when I left so I mad the ASSumption that it would be fine. First pull, boosted 15 psi, ran 13.5 AFR's and we let out @ 4800 rpm. She made 346 RWHP and warped 2 apex seals. My fault, not the engines. The fuel filter was clogged up which is why the fuel psi sender puked.

The moral is, to sum up what I believe everyone is saying........ monitor the engines every pulse, hicccup, sneeze, cough, and even fart. Better to err on the side of saftery with a few hundred worth of upgrades than a popped engine and THEN all of the stuff you should've had from the get go.

[MrNizzles]

I understand all these points, thats why I wanted to post here. My rebuild did consist of a new radiator (all new hoses everywhere), new clutch cylinders, wrapping the dp, a new fpd, new secondary injectors, cleaned primaries, new fuel filter, new oil pump, new omp lines and nozzle, re-wired supra tt fuel pump... no fuel pressure gauge tho...

my point was to have the important stuff done so I could upgrade as I go ... the pfc and better boost controller is next but I don't want to boost more than 10psi until I get some type of aux inj system.

still, with winter coming, colder air outside, it will be much easier to hit 10psi and creep past. I definitely notice the change in seasons, and air temp has a big effect on spool up time and ability to hold @ 10psi.. or creep, even with ported wg and stock main cat.

maybe santa can come early this year....

[TitaniumTT]

You're doing it backwards. Would you turn the stockers up to 15 psi before adding more fuel, ignition control and the like? No. You want all the supporting mods in place before you add the power to keep things from going wrong.
For the boost you're talking about you don't need an aux injection system