20B N/A build thread -- 3rd rotors a charm

[RETed]

Originally Posted by classicauto

Bear in mind with an Electromotive regarding the cost:

You're getting a superior trigger system with the ECU
You're also getting coils that will never need to be boosted by a CDI. The single tower coils in my car will light 9.00AFR + 375cc of water without blinking an eye.

So if plans are to spend the ECU savings on an ignition, you may want to re-consider.

Just a thought. Obviously they all work well, but the points above were things I never thought about, so just passing it along

Gawd, this thread is getting bashed here...

I thought all the Electromotive sign wavers disappeared by now.

The Electromotive trigger systems have the *potential* to offer better accuracy.
The loudest argument for this is when they say to shoot your current EMS ignition and watch the marks jump all over the place during accel and decel.
Sure, it can scare people when the see that, but...
The (rotary) engine has some "slop" (sorry, dunno what the technical term for it is called) from the eccentric shaft to the rotors (positions) themselves.
Anyone can see this just be rotating the eccentric shaft itself (by hand) and see how much play it has without the rotors themselves moving.
I believe the Haltech has better *adjustment* resolution versus the TEC, but I haven't checked the specs on the TEC units for years now.
So where does this leaves us?

Coils don't need to be boosted by anything...
Haltech allows you the flexibility to use almost *any* aftermarket coil you want.
Electromotive likes to push their inductive coil advantage (over CDI) - dunno why.
If you're so inclined against CDI, then you're not required to use CDI with a Haltech.
CDI has been proven in racing, so why bash it?
I like CDI cause it's more consistent versus spark plug gap - try and get that kind of consistency with changing spark plug gap with inductive coils.
LSx coils have been proven (with Haltech set-up's) that do not require CDI for years.
I bet the LSx coils are cheaper versus replacement coils from Electromotive?
Again, flexilbility is the key here, and you're not locked into buying the coils from the EMS brand manufacturer.
There is no mystery on inductive coil technology...
You have input voltage, # of windings or ratio, and output voltage dependent on the two previous...
If your spark is blowing out or not strong enough, either jack up the input voltage or increase the # of windings!
If the spark is still not strong enough, why don't we all run magnetos???

Sorry, I just had to add my 2 cents here due to the bad information...


-Ted