FC3S Murray's never ending build.

[WE3RX7]

That is hard to tell..... are the etchings the same "font" for the C and the D - almost looks like they are which would make me think its a D rotor on the rear? Not to mention, it appears the "D" and the "C" from each rotor are facing the same direction where the "E" seems backwards. If not, I would assume your rear is an E rotor, but that E looks like it has a little overlap on the middle line which would not happen in general machining stamping...

Since the motor has been apart before, its hard to really know - but generally the motors I've seen are C/D combos. From what I understand, you can use C with anything but you can't jump a letter such as a B with a D, etc.

Not sure if that helps, but food for thought...

[classicauto]

looks to me to be a C and D weight.

But yeah, too many damn stamps on those rotors. You'd think if mazda wanted to be so critical with the weighting, they'd have......hmmm.......maybe......just put weight codes on them? Instead of weight codes plus 17,000 other random, letter shaped things

[WE3RX7]

Yea - 12A rotors are easier to read IMHO, mazda went crazy on later engines... my 6pt NA rotors had numerous markings on them too...

[classicauto]

Yea I saw that one of the slots was quite a bit wider..don't recall if you said it was the front or rear though. IIRC the rear was fine, but front haad one out of spec?

I guess my pic viewing micrometer needs a recalibration haha.....but yeah as long as your measurements show they're in spec, you're rockin!

[FC3S Murray]

Originally Posted by classicauto

Yea I saw that one of the slots was quite a bit wider..don't recall if you said it was the front or rear though. IIRC the rear was fine, but front haad one out of spec?

I guess my pic viewing micrometer needs a recalibration haha.....but yeah as long as your measurements show they're in spec, you're rockin!

Ha, I actually measured them bro. Front rotor slots all measured between 2.01-2.04mm. The bad rear rotor had one side with 2.03-2.05 BUT the other side of the rotor measured 2.15-2.18.

No good in my opinion. However, I can not find specs on the wear limits. ONly specs when Apex seal is installed via FSM.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by classicauto

Yea I saw that one of the slots was quite a bit wider..don't recall if you said it was the front or rear though. IIRC the rear was fine, but front haad one out of spec?

I guess my pic viewing micrometer needs a recalibration haha.....but yeah as long as your measurements show they're in spec, you're rockin!

Well, assuming 2mm apex seals are 2mm's .15-.18 is too much slop IMHO

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

Ha, I actually measured them bro. Front rotor slots all measured between 2.01-2.04mm. The bad rear rotor had one side with 2.03-2.05 BUT the other side of the rotor measured 2.15-2.18.

No good in my opinion. However, I can not find specs on the wear limits. ONly specs when Apex seal is installed via FSM.

I don't think you should use it. A rotor should be cheap and easy to come by, shit, I have 2 S4 n/a's and one S5/6......... although I'll know in about 12 hours if I'm going to be using them or not. Actually, I'd go for S5 n/a rotors if I need one or both. The suspense is killing me. Leaving for KDR in 7 hours.

BTW Sean, housing went out on Thursday Lemme know when you get them and what you think.

-B

[FC3S Murray]

Originally Posted by TitaniumTT

Well, assuming 2mm apex seals are 2mm's .15-.18 is too much slop IMHO



I don't think you should use it. A rotor should be cheap and easy to come by, shit, I have 2 S4 n/a's and one S5/6......... although I'll know in about 12 hours if I'm going to be using them or not. Actually, I'd go for S5 n/a rotors if I need one or both. The suspense is killing me. Leaving for KDR in 7 hours.

BTW Sean, housing went out on Thursday Lemme know when you get them and what you think.

-B

S5N/A rotors really?? Isn't the compression ratio too high? Shit I can't find any s4 or s5 TII rotors for less then 400.00 a pair. BUT there are a shit load of N/A's out there in great shape for cheap.

I would have to re-tune for sure since I am pushing 15psi. What are you running bro??

BTW thanks for getting the housings out.

[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

S5N/A rotors really?? Isn't the compression ratio too high? Shit I can't find any s4 or s5 TII rotors for less then 400.00 a pair. BUT there are a shit load of N/A's out there in great shape for cheap.

I would have to re-tune for sure since I am pushing 15psi. What are you running bro??

BTW thanks for getting the housings out.

Yeah, the comp is 9.7:1 in the S5 n/a's. Supposedly helps out with cruise and low end grunt. Need to accomadate in the tuning though. Doesn't really help or hurt in the top end with the boost that I plan to run. Not to mention Chadwick has been doing it for a while so I feel confident.

Re-tuning is going to be mandatory regardless of whether you change anything. You're going to have a much healthier engine at the end which will mean that things are tighter and she'll probably run leaner anyway.

The S4 n/a's are 9.4:1.
S4 TII - 8.5:1
S5 TII - 9.0:1

No worries on the housings. I feel bad that they were a day late. Please PM me when you get them though.

-B

[vex]

Originally Posted by FC3S Murray

Ha, I actually measured them bro. Front rotor slots all measured between 2.01-2.04mm. The bad rear rotor had one side with 2.03-2.05 BUT the other side of the rotor measured 2.15-2.18.

No good in my opinion. However, I can not find specs on the wear limits. ONly specs when Apex seal is installed via FSM.

Usually the apex seals vary a little in thickness and hence why the FSM has it using the seals as part of the measurements. Check the seals and see what the dimensions of them are. You'd be surprised and might find a few that measure 2.03mm maybe more if they were exceptionally sloppy.

[-=Lil Red=-]

The weight codes that I have seen in numerous engines that I have built have been. A, B, C, D, or E .

Your rotors are marked C and D. The other markings on the rotors serve for different purposes, like side seal gap.

[TitaniumTT]

Well, here's the thing, timing makes power, not fuel. The oversimplification is less comp, less heat, more timing more power......... safely.

I have a front S4 counterweight if you want to take this route. Overall power between the rotors can be viewed as negligable. The real advantage is in the low end and vac runnings.

[FC3S Murray]

So Kevin Landers may have a rotor for me...I have a another on standby BUT would like to buy from kevin.

I have a quick question regarding side seal clearancing: So do you put one end of the side seal all the way against one of the corner seal eyelets and THEN clearance the other end? I feel stupid but I was checking some of my 50 side seals I have that are practically new and could not get the little fucker to stay still while clearancing one end. It would just slide slightly obviously screwing up my measurement.

[TitaniumTT]

I use a grinding stone and slowly take it down until it's the proper clearance. I do this with the seal out of the rotor. I measure the clearance by sliding the seal against one of the corner seals and then measure the gap at the other..

FWIW - in speaking with Dave on saturday, he's seen some Mazda reman's that hadn't been started yet that were set to 0 clearance. He generally sets his to 1/2 the Mazda recs or .02mm, something like .001" I think. With that said, that's what I'm going to try this time around.

[FC3S Murray]

.02mm is flipin crazy.....I like the word flip'in...but I also like this vodka.

You said Laura is goning send you some new seal and SPRINGS? I emailed them on friday and haven't heard if they got any racing ones in stock yet. They must. I will call tomorrow as soon as I finishing fucking this goose.....Grey Goose that is.

[TitaniumTT]

Goose is my favorite. Nice choice. I recently had some TX Vodka that was like 120 proof.... ridiculous.... expecially the things that it allowed me to do

Yeah, they had like 4 sets left. Best thing to do is call. Laura's great to deal with and if you can't get her on the phone, leave a msg, she actually calls back.

GL man