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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections. |
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#1 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Macungie, PA
Posts: 163
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Bushings!
I have been reading a little here and there about bushings for the FD. My FD has ~65k miles on it and I've noticed that the rear end feels vague and a little sloppy like the bushings and pillow balls are shot, which I'm sure they are.
I'm hoping to replace all the bushings and pillow balls this summer. So first would be have any of ya'll done this removal/install yourself? If so what kind of a job am I looking at, I imagine a week or two working here and there after work? Also, I have all the tools to remove components and what not, but I imagine I'd need to find a press somewhere to push new bushings in? Second I'd like to hear your opinions on what kind of bushings you have installed on your car. My car is primarily street driven with the occasional auto-x. From what I have read it seems like Super Pro would be the best for my application. So if you have any suggestions about what kind of bushings to install i'd appreciate those as well. Thanks in advance!
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Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction. |
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#2 |
Always Under Construction
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: La Playa, CA
Posts: 302
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I went with Delrin bushings, still sitting in a box somewhere around here. I have heard that the superpro give a little less vibration, but I don't hear many people complaining about the Delrin.
You don't need a press, but it will make life easier. I got a quote from a local machine shop to push all the bushings in for $75. PillowBall DIY Thread: http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...lls/index.html JimLab has a nice write up as well. Maybe someone will post it for you. ~M~
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BLACKADDE™ | ADGT RX7 | |
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#3 |
Founder/Administrator/Internet Pitbull :)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 644
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Delrin... But I kind of want to try out some Suprpros. Its bit noisier.. and I also heard that Suprpros are bit better..
You definitely need a press if you are going to do it yourself. I bought a Mazda SST that help with pushing out and in the bushing and made things much easier.. If you don't have some of these it might be slightly tougher..
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DGRR 2013 - Year of 13B www.DealsGapRotaryRally.com http://www.facebook.com/Herblenny |
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#4 |
17+ years...
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Oahu
Posts: 59
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
I have done both the pillow balls and diff bushings and I agree that a press makes the job much easier. Neither job is too difficult although I had some issue getting my diff bushings carrier off (hard to get leverage on the 17mm bolts on top). I replaced my diff bushings with the Superpros (a couple of years ago) and I have been very happy. No drive train noise transmitted to the cabin.
I sourced my OEM pillow balls, and dust covers, from Ray at Malloy 888.533.3400. His number should be in your speed dial for all OEM parts. Good luck.
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Charlie |
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#5 |
Always Under Construction
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: La Playa, CA
Posts: 302
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
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BLACKADDE™ | ADGT RX7 | |
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#6 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 162
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
Check out my thread
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=6823 I did those bushings all with a ball joint tool and didnt need a press. I hear the delrins can transfer some vibration and definitely cause more road noise, so I prefer the Superpros as they won't, but are still stiffer and more durable than stock. The Mazdaspeed bushings are nice too, but they are pricier than the Superpros. I've done a full set of bushings also, and they can be done with the ball joint tool also, or with a press. ![]() |
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#7 |
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 535
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
I have a press and have put in stock sets and the white ones .I sandblast the parts and remove any dents and dings so cracks will not start . I made the parts to press with out of nylon instead of metal so no damage can be done to the new parts . I will do this by the hour so I can not give a price .
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#8 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Macungie, PA
Posts: 163
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
So i'm pretty sure that i'm going to go with SuperPro bushings. It seems that they provide the best balance of performance and streetability, which is key as this is a mostly street driven car.
For those of you that installed SuperPro where did you purchase them from? I also noticed there are several kits, I'm thinking I should just go ahead and get everything and do it all at once. Any suggestions? Thanks for all the response!
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Proud owner of a base 1993 Montego Blue FD. PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction. |
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#9 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bay Area CA
Posts: 91
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
I have SuperPros. They are nice. I noticed a difference between SuperPro and fresh stock bushings but I'm very sensitive to suspension changes. For a street driven car with mild power mods, I'd stay with the stock bushings.
Before ordering bushings alone add up the cost of the bushings and labor and compare to the cost of the part new. Sometimes it works out where it is cheaper and convenient to just buy the whole suspension arm with the bushings already installed. I did my suspension overhaul in stages to minimize downtime. I was having some odd noises from the front so I did the front first and then moved to the rear. Given you car is pretty low mileage, I would suggest getting the front bushings checked for play before spending the time/money on stuff you don't need. My alignment guy was able to see a decent amount of play on the front suspension arm bushings when my car was on the rack. I was at 130k hard miles when this was done.
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93 Vintage Red R1 Power: Street Ported Motor, 99 Twins, V-mount, DP>SMB cat/MP> RB cat back, PFC, 1300cc secondaries, Fuel Pump, ACT clutch, RB lwfw, etc Steve Kan tuned - 310rwhp at 10PSI Suspension: Tripoint custom valved Koni + Ground Control coilovers, Eibach sway bars, SuperPro bushings, Corner Balanced and accurately aligned Brakes: RacingBrake 4 corner BBK SSR Integrale 17"x9" +45, Dunlop Star Specs 255/40 Last edited by albertomg; 03-18-2009 at 11:39 AM. |
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