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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections. |
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#1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Smyrna, TN, USA
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Really not a good idea because of galvanic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum. It is particularly bad when a lot of moisture is present (water pump housing, t-stat housing…)
Dan |
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#2 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Influx.
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Couldn't you just use a sacrificial anoid?
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#3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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Wow, is this true, I changed most of my nuts and bolts in the engine bay to stainless...
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#4 |
RCC Loves Me Not You
Join Date: Jul 2008
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You'll get that response with almost any bolt since it's two dissimilar metals in contact with each other. The real solution is to isolate the cooling system from the electrical system to retard or eliminate the catalyst for the reaction to occur, since there's always going to be a grounding effect from the charging system on the block it's just about impossible to do. The next best thing is a sacrificial anode. It's just a stud that will get eaten instead of the aluminum saving the pieces of your engine and radiator.
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The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group |
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#5 | |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Smyrna, TN, USA
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Quote:
With my airpump delete pulley kit for singles all of the hardware is stainless except for the one bolt that goes into the water pump for this reason. Dan |
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#6 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Shelby Twp MI.
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Your best bet will be to take all your bolts clean them and have them re-zinc plaited gold black or clear zinc.
Much cheaper than buying new bolts.... ![]() ![]() Last edited by To_Slow; 03-09-2009 at 02:37 PM. |
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#7 |
Rotary Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Smyrna, TN, USA
Posts: 239
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
Nice!
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