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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

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Old 03-09-2009, 12:31 AM   #1
Chadwick
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Really not a good idea because of galvanic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum. It is particularly bad when a lot of moisture is present (water pump housing, t-stat housing…)

Dan
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Old 03-09-2009, 01:19 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Chadwick View Post
Really not a good idea because of galvanic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum. It is particularly bad when a lot of moisture is present (water pump housing, t-stat housing…)

Dan
Couldn't you just use a sacrificial anoid?
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Old 03-09-2009, 03:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
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Really not a good idea because of galvanic corrosion between the stainless and aluminum. It is particularly bad when a lot of moisture is present (water pump housing, t-stat housing…)

Dan
Wow, is this true, I changed most of my nuts and bolts in the engine bay to stainless...
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Old 03-09-2009, 11:54 AM   #4
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Wow, is this true, I changed most of my nuts and bolts in the engine bay to stainless...
You'll get that response with almost any bolt since it's two dissimilar metals in contact with each other. The real solution is to isolate the cooling system from the electrical system to retard or eliminate the catalyst for the reaction to occur, since there's always going to be a grounding effect from the charging system on the block it's just about impossible to do. The next best thing is a sacrificial anode. It's just a stud that will get eaten instead of the aluminum saving the pieces of your engine and radiator.
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:10 PM   #5
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You'll get that response with almost any bolt since it's two dissimilar metals in contact with each other. The real solution is to isolate the cooling system from the electrical system to retard or eliminate the catalyst for the reaction to occur, since there's always going to be a grounding effect from the charging system on the block it's just about impossible to do. The next best thing is a sacrificial anode. It's just a stud that will get eaten instead of the aluminum saving the pieces of your engine and radiator.
I don't disagree, overtime any bolt is susceptible, but most automotive bolts have been galvanized or chemically treated to drastically reduce the corrosion. Stainless by its very nature is left untreated.

With my airpump delete pulley kit for singles all of the hardware is stainless except for the one bolt that goes into the water pump for this reason.

Dan
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Old 03-09-2009, 02:33 PM   #6
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Your best bet will be to take all your bolts clean them and have them re-zinc plaited gold black or clear zinc.

Much cheaper than buying new bolts....


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Old 03-09-2009, 02:44 PM   #7
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Your best bet will be to take all your bolts clean them and have them re-zinc plaited gold black or clear zinc.

Much cheaper than buying new bolts....
Nice!
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