finally got my car running, got some bugs to work out.

Max777 · 10-30-2008, 04:37 PM

no i didn't remove the thermowax because of the whole "hold your foot down for 1 min before the car warms up thing. However, now I'm thinking of getting rid of it. Airflow meter IS connected, but no I haven't tested it.

As far as the idle screw, is that the big capped off screw on top of the TB? I read somewhere not to mess with those.... so i didnt want to touch it.

Max777 · 10-30-2008, 10:20 PM

Ok, here's a theory: When I hooked up my FPR and MAP sensor, I used a T fitting, so both of them go off of one vaccum nipple, and since my 6 ports are removed, and the VDI is currently non operational (will install the tire pump thing later) iw was wondering that maybe they dont get the right amount of vaccum?

I dunno, but to me it seems like a possible add on to something else wrong.

Anyway, I'm going to tear the intake back apart, and redo some stuff, and put cork gasket where I just used RTV on the BAC, and VDI since their gaskets were torn, as well as ziptie all my vaccum lines, check for leaks in the oil injectors, and ETC.

I also think my o ring between the throttle body and plastic thing may possibly be leaking, so I'm going to temporarily put some cork there as well.

NoDOHC · 10-30-2008, 10:44 PM

with no vacuum leaks and stock ignition timing I could get my '86 to idle at about 300 rpm. My '91 will only go down to about 400 rpm with the idle screw all the way in (700 with 15 degree advance)

edit: If you get your ignition timing right, the car should rev ok when held flat on the floor (as long as AFM is functioning properly and TPS reads wide open). Vacuum leaks have little effect at WOT.

Max777 · 10-30-2008, 11:22 PM

Well, it does seem to rev sort of ok... if I press the gas down harder, but if I just tap it a bit, then it goes to shit, i have to rev it really hard for it to go.. and I dont like that because I dont want to blow it up with it misfiring like it is too.

10-31-2008, 05:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max777

if I just tap it a bit, then it goes to shit,

Deff sounds like a vac leak.

Max777 · 11-03-2008, 11:45 PM

Well, I dicked around with it today... now it starts and revs to like 5,000 rpm, seems like I fubared the throttle body, lol.

Oh yeah, btw: I checked compression with another gauge, on a cold run, it was right below 90 so it looks like I got compression!

Max777 · 11-16-2008, 11:41 PM

Well, shit... so I got the throttle body, put it in, and tried to start the car...

I thought it was just flooded, so I deflooded it, and tried again... still no go.

Then as I was looking for what was wrong, I saw that my leading coil was unplugged,doh!

(I got my turn signals in a few days ago, and when i was soldering them in place, I unplugged the coil wire so that the harness would be more acessible.

Then, I found that I left my fuel rail/map sensor vaccum disconnected as well... double doh!

So, I drained the FUCK out of the battery for nothing, put the thing on a fast charge, and tried again... still cranked slow as hell...

So, I'm gonna put the battery inside today because it's cold outside, and then complete charging it tomorrow...

I'm getting my wheel bearings pressed in tomorrow, so I will probably do all this shit after that gets done.

...shit, which reminds me... I gotta buy new seals...

Ah, the joys of owning an RX-7...

10-30-2008, 04:37 PM	#16
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	no i didn't remove the thermowax because of the whole "hold your foot down for 1 min before the car warms up thing. However, now I'm thinking of getting rid of it. Airflow meter IS connected, but no I haven't tested it. As far as the idle screw, is that the big capped off screw on top of the TB? I read somewhere not to mess with those.... so i didnt want to touch it. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

10-30-2008, 10:20 PM	#17
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Ok, here's a theory: When I hooked up my FPR and MAP sensor, I used a T fitting, so both of them go off of one vaccum nipple, and since my 6 ports are removed, and the VDI is currently non operational (will install the tire pump thing later) iw was wondering that maybe they dont get the right amount of vaccum? I dunno, but to me it seems like a possible add on to something else wrong. Anyway, I'm going to tear the intake back apart, and redo some stuff, and put cork gasket where I just used RTV on the BAC, and VDI since their gaskets were torn, as well as ziptie all my vaccum lines, check for leaks in the oil injectors, and ETC. I also think my o ring between the throttle body and plastic thing may possibly be leaking, so I'm going to temporarily put some cork there as well. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

10-30-2008, 10:44 PM	#18
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin iTrader: (1) Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	with no vacuum leaks and stock ignition timing I could get my '86 to idle at about 300 rpm. My '91 will only go down to about 400 rpm with the idle screw all the way in (700 with 15 degree advance) edit: If you get your ignition timing right, the car should rev ok when held flat on the floor (as long as AFM is functioning properly and TPS reads wide open). Vacuum leaks have little effect at WOT. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) Last edited by NoDOHC; 10-30-2008 at 10:49 PM.. Reason: to make more helpful

10-30-2008, 11:22 PM	#19
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Well, it does seem to rev sort of ok... if I press the gas down harder, but if I just tap it a bit, then it goes to shit, i have to rev it really hard for it to go.. and I dont like that because I dont want to blow it up with it misfiring like it is too. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

11-03-2008, 11:45 PM	#21
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Well, I dicked around with it today... now it starts and revs to like 5,000 rpm, seems like I fubared the throttle body, lol. Oh yeah, btw: I checked compression with another gauge, on a cold run, it was right below 90 so it looks like I got compression! __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

11-16-2008, 11:41 PM	#22
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Well, shit... so I got the throttle body, put it in, and tried to start the car... I thought it was just flooded, so I deflooded it, and tried again... still no go. Then as I was looking for what was wrong, I saw that my leading coil was unplugged,doh! (I got my turn signals in a few days ago, and when i was soldering them in place, I unplugged the coil wire so that the harness would be more acessible. Then, I found that I left my fuel rail/map sensor vaccum disconnected as well... double doh! So, I drained the FUCK out of the battery for nothing, put the thing on a fast charge, and tried again... still cranked slow as hell... So, I'm gonna put the battery inside today because it's cold outside, and then complete charging it tomorrow... I'm getting my wheel bearings pressed in tomorrow, so I will probably do all this shit after that gets done. ...shit, which reminds me... I gotta buy new seals... Ah, the joys of owning an RX-7... __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!