My GXL ----> 13B-RE/S5 Body

TehMonkay · 07-24-2008, 06:03 PM

So, from here I should be able to just take off the transmission mounts and pull the engine out after pulling the wiring off of the top of it.

The rust in the rear fender well is the only bad rust, it was under the underbody coating which is what made it so bad i assume.

So now i need to pull the rest of the interior and sound deadening, and put the black interior in it, and put in my T2 drivetrain and delrin mounts/bushings. After that i'm painting the engine bay and ordering the engine.

I'm painting the car Innocent/Sapphire Blue Mica, should i go ahead and paint the engine bay black since i'm painting the rest of the car later, or should I go ahead and try and order a pint of blue micah to do the bay?

Oh yeah, bmagic front fenders got here today.

N.RotaryTech · 07-25-2008, 11:10 AM

I had that same kind of tennis ball when I was a kid.

djmtsu · 07-25-2008, 11:23 AM

Is that a hole THOUGH the unibody???

I think I would find a new donor shell.

Max777 · 07-25-2008, 11:37 AM

dont paint your bay black! Paint it Hi temp white!

Check out my thread, it looks really nice, and if you ever have any engine trouble, leaks and stuff are easier to see.

TehMonkay · 07-25-2008, 12:49 PM

It's just in the wheel well in that one spot.

Unless someone in my area has a rust free sheel with nothing bolted on to it period with a straight fram i'll just repair that sheet metal.

The frame around the area only has surface rust on it.

I think i'm just gonna' order a quart of IBM and paint the bay myself and leave the rest to a pro.

Do you think a pint would be enough just for the engine bay?

PS, you can see my tire through that hole, lol, i love that.

PSS, I dont think i should let my dog chew on that ball anymore since it's been sitting under a 7.

need RX7 · 07-25-2008, 07:38 PM

Sounds like an awesome project (I <3 13B-RE's). That rust definitely sucks, but looks fixable. My FC is probably 15-25% rust

Good luck!

TehMonkay · 11-09-2008, 03:29 PM

Well, i've changed directions a little bit, I'm gonna' go with a T2 engine to get it running for now, and keep that until I crack my rear iron.

I have now everything I need except the rebuild kit. For the shortblock at least.

I got some FD rotors, I'm dropping off my irons and housings with a friend to get a half bridge, and I have all of the internals I need. I bought pieces seperately so this was a little tedious. I do however seem to be missing my S4 T2 upper intake manifold so if anyone has one of those shoot me a PM with a price.

Next time I get paid, I am picking up a slightly used petite flywheel, 4 1000CC injectors, an adapter for a HKS wastegate flange for a tial 44mm for $20

and my rebuild kit.

Currectly, almost everything is out of the engine bay, i need to run to the hardware store to buy a few bolts to plug up my steering rack (yes just temporarily) and then i'm gonna' pressure wash everything and sand it down and go ahead and lay down a new 2 coats of primer in the engine bay.

I did also notice my steering rack has 3 holes instead of 2, does that mean my car was vehicle speed sensing power steering?

I also need to pick up some hi temp white paint as well.

Oh and I got my MS lip in the mail a while back too

WE3RX7 · 11-09-2008, 05:50 PM

PICS!

Check your PM BTW...

What are you using the hi-temp white on? A quick note about the paint, if you're going to use a primer first, be sure to use the same brand primer as the paint you intend to use - especially if using IBM.

07-24-2008, 06:03 PM	#1
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 302 Rep Power: 18	My GXL ----> 13B-RE/S5 Body So, from here I should be able to just take off the transmission mounts and pull the engine out after pulling the wiring off of the top of it. The rust in the rear fender well is the only bad rust, it was under the underbody coating which is what made it so bad i assume. So now i need to pull the rest of the interior and sound deadening, and put the black interior in it, and put in my T2 drivetrain and delrin mounts/bushings. After that i'm painting the engine bay and ordering the engine. I'm painting the car Innocent/Sapphire Blue Mica, should i go ahead and paint the engine bay black since i'm painting the rest of the car later, or should I go ahead and try and order a pint of blue micah to do the bay? Oh yeah, bmagic front fenders got here today. __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

07-25-2008, 11:23 AM	#3
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 22	Is that a hole THOUGH the unibody??? I think I would find a new donor shell. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

07-25-2008, 11:37 AM	#4
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 19	dont paint your bay black! Paint it Hi temp white! Check out my thread, it looks really nice, and if you ever have any engine trouble, leaks and stuff are easier to see. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

07-25-2008, 12:49 PM	#5
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 302 Rep Power: 18	It's just in the wheel well in that one spot. Unless someone in my area has a rust free sheel with nothing bolted on to it period with a straight fram i'll just repair that sheet metal. The frame around the area only has surface rust on it. I think i'm just gonna' order a quart of IBM and paint the bay myself and leave the rest to a pro. Do you think a pint would be enough just for the engine bay? PS, you can see my tire through that hole, lol, i love that. PSS, I dont think i should let my dog chew on that ball anymore since it's been sitting under a 7. __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary Last edited by TehMonkay; 07-25-2008 at 12:52 PM.

07-25-2008, 07:38 PM	#6
need RX7 Clean S4 Nutswinger Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Sterling Heights, MI Posts: 485 Rep Power: 18	Sounds like an awesome project (I <3 13B-RE's). That rust definitely sucks, but looks fixable. My FC is probably 15-25% rust Good luck! __________________ -Ted -1986 Mazda RX7 Sport [DD/beater]: engine finally let go at 205k. parts car status. -1986 Mazda RX7 base [resto-mod project]: S5 n/a swap in progress.

07-25-2008, 11:10 AM	#2
N.RotaryTech Home-brew Rotary Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: GooseCreek SC Posts: 552 Rep Power: 18	I had that same kind of tennis ball when I was a kid.

11-09-2008, 03:29 PM	#7
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 302 Rep Power: 18	Well, i've changed directions a little bit, I'm gonna' go with a T2 engine to get it running for now, and keep that until I crack my rear iron. I have now everything I need except the rebuild kit. For the shortblock at least. I got some FD rotors, I'm dropping off my irons and housings with a friend to get a half bridge, and I have all of the internals I need. I bought pieces seperately so this was a little tedious. I do however seem to be missing my S4 T2 upper intake manifold so if anyone has one of those shoot me a PM with a price. Next time I get paid, I am picking up a slightly used petite flywheel, 4 1000CC injectors, an adapter for a HKS wastegate flange for a tial 44mm for $20 and my rebuild kit. Currectly, almost everything is out of the engine bay, i need to run to the hardware store to buy a few bolts to plug up my steering rack (yes just temporarily) and then i'm gonna' pressure wash everything and sand it down and go ahead and lay down a new 2 coats of primer in the engine bay. I did also notice my steering rack has 3 holes instead of 2, does that mean my car was vehicle speed sensing power steering? I also need to pick up some hi temp white paint as well. Oh and I got my MS lip in the mail a while back too __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

11-09-2008, 05:50 PM	#8
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 19	PICS! Check your PM BTW... What are you using the hi-temp white on? A quick note about the paint, if you're going to use a primer first, be sure to use the same brand primer as the paint you intend to use - especially if using IBM.