3800 rpm wall/ hesitation

Phoenix7 · 08-06-2008, 08:30 PM

damn, good job on the work so far. you say you get 4.4K ohms at WOT but the FSM says it should be at 5K ohms +/-1K ohms but that may still be causing the stumble. This is assuming you have an S4 since you didn't mention narrow or full range (If not then you're off from the 6Kohms specs).

Have you double checked to make sure the fuel pump is getting full voltage?

IS your timing off? You say you have the wrong pulley, does this mean the marks are off? Have you set the motor to TDC and remarked the pulley?

Your secondary injectors are electrically within specs, is it possible that they're clogged though? It's a long shot but who knows.

It IS possible that you're just flooding the car when the secondaries come on. It only happens when idleing, right?

Good luck man. I'll think about it and see if I have more questions or ideas.

Apex944 · 08-06-2008, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phoenix7

damn, good job on the work so far. you say you get 4.4K ohms at WOT but the FSM says it should be at 5K ohms +/-1K ohms but that may still be causing the stumble. This is assuming you have an S4 since you didn't mention narrow or full range (If not then you're off from the 6Kohms specs).

Have you double checked to make sure the fuel pump is getting full voltage?

IS your timing off? You say you have the wrong pulley, does this mean the marks are off? Have you set the motor to TDC and remarked the pulley?

Your secondary injectors are electrically within specs, is it possible that they're clogged though? It's a long shot but who knows.

It IS possible that you're just flooding the car when the secondaries come on.

Good luck man. I'll think about it and see if I have more questions or ideas.

Yeah, I forgot to mention it is an S4 T2 so it has the 1 " on/off " TPS sensor.

I figured the TPS is fine due to some information I found while searching for this problem. I've seen other members who have only 4k ohms for WOT and others around 4.5 ohms WOT on their S4 TPS sensors and dont have any issues. I have tried a few TPS sensors and nothing has changed.

Im going to double check my fuel pump voltage after I repair my intake manifold leak tonight. Just hook my DMM up to it and watch it as I drive around and see if it drops off any where.... I know the DMM isnt that great at response but it's the best I have at the moment and should be good enough for fuel pump voltage watching.

As far as timing goes.... I am 99% sure I have the wrong pulley on my car.
For starters when I line the CAS up, yellow timing mark, etc.. for setting up the CAS and drop it in, the car will not start at all. I also tried setting it again last night and my LED setup I made for watching my secondaries flashes as it tries to start so it must be off....
I have spent 3 hours trying to set my CAS with no luck, so the pulley is the only reason it is doing what it's doing.
I then just went 1 tooth at a time until it ran decent enough to drive.
Then at rotorfest a few weeks ago Icemark told me my CAS was 180 out so I flipped it and it ran even better and it was retarded like it should be again.

I know im close to the correct timing, but might still be off.

I keep forgetting to try to set it to TDC and remark the pulley, i'll do that tonight as well.

Im waiting on a pulley to get here that another member is supposed to be shipping me but so far it doesnt look like its been shipped out yet...

Anybody got one laying around that I could buy for like $20 or so shipped?

Thanks for the help

vex · 08-07-2008, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Apex944

Yeah, I forgot to mention it is an S4 T2 so it has the 1 " on/off " TPS sensor.

I figured the TPS is fine due to some information I found while searching for this problem. I've seen other members who have only 4k ohms for WOT and others around 4.5 ohms WOT on their S4 TPS sensors and dont have any issues. I have tried a few TPS sensors and nothing has changed.

Im going to double check my fuel pump voltage after I repair my intake manifold leak tonight. Just hook my DMM up to it and watch it as I drive around and see if it drops off any where.... I know the DMM isnt that great at response but it's the best I have at the moment and should be good enough for fuel pump voltage watching.

As far as timing goes.... I am 99% sure I have the wrong pulley on my car.
For starters when I line the CAS up, yellow timing mark, etc.. for setting up the CAS and drop it in, the car will not start at all. I also tried setting it again last night and my LED setup I made for watching my secondaries flashes as it tries to start so it must be off....
I have spent 3 hours trying to set my CAS with no luck, so the pulley is the only reason it is doing what it's doing.
I then just went 1 tooth at a time until it ran decent enough to drive.
Then at rotorfest a few weeks ago Icemark told me my CAS was 180 out so I flipped it and it ran even better and it was retarded like it should be again.

I know im close to the correct timing, but might still be off.

I keep forgetting to try to set it to TDC and remark the pulley, i'll do that tonight as well.

Im waiting on a pulley to get here that another member is supposed to be shipping me but so far it doesnt look like its been shipped out yet...

Anybody got one laying around that I could buy for like $20 or so shipped?

Thanks for the help

Have you tested your secondaries per FSM procedure (mechanics wire?) I'm thinking since it's a problem with the secondaries you may actually be able to physically see the secondaries firing. If you're getting fuel out of the injectors then the problem is in the chamber and it's not atomizing correctly.

So far from what you've told us it seems like you've tested a majority, if not all, the sensors that would have a bearing on this problem. I would look back at the secondary injectors and do the FSM procedure.