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Old 12-11-2015, 07:31 PM   #1
RICE RACING
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4 ports, RR street ported is all you will ever need. There is allot of total bullshit out there and much wasted effort spent on total crap! like extra peripheral ports and totally butchered housings.

I have the largest and most correct validated data base of rotary engine knowledge anywhere in the world on porting and turbocharging, once you know how to separate the fact from bullshit (takes more than a couple of days on the dyno lol) it is real easy to see that you need nothing more than a correctly done street port and selecting the best OE inlet manifold, that currently is the 13B-RE or COSMO, the REW is a much better engine base and it is easy to port out its inlet runner shape to accept the RE inlet manifold, this then makes the best base engine for your application.

On a real simple level looking at the highest boos levels on the turbo I told you about above for street use and using a Tial 1.06A/R V band housing on a basic linear scale as you increase MAP
1bar 225bhp (0 boost)
2bar 450bhp
3bar 675bhp
4bar 900bhp (43psi boost)

You actually make more power at the lower MAP levels due to higher Ve in those ranges but the above suffices to paint the picture for you.

This is all set up on very conservative engine calibration that will live for years on gas and water injection, dozens of cars running this way, all proven and NOT ONE E85 or ethanol FUCK UP NIGHTMARE ever to deal with! EVER!

Simple Reliable, world leading.
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Old 12-11-2015, 08:23 PM   #2
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Thank you for all of the information. That will be a great help. Sgt Frank not to sound like a smart ass, but why would a TH350 be more of a problem than a Mazda auto ? I was planning on a 350 or a glide with a high stall and a trans brake. But like I said I no nothing about Rotary Engines.
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Old 12-11-2015, 08:33 PM   #3
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Here is the power torque curve for the combo I suggest to help you mate up the TC.

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Old 12-12-2015, 11:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sword181 View Post
Thank you for all of the information. That will be a great help. Sgt Frank not to sound like a smart ass, but why would a TH350 be more of a problem than a Mazda auto ? I was planning on a 350 or a glide with a high stall and a trans brake. But like I said I no nothing about Rotary Engines.
Truthfully the TH350 would probably be a lot better than the Mazda auto transmission, except for the lack of a gear. Certainly so in reliability and parts availability. From what I have seen, rotaries don't do well behind any automatic. Then again I am no expert. I haven't seen anyone adapt one of the newer boxes with a lot of gear ratios yet though. The TH350, and even more so the Powerglide, were designed for the massive amounts of torque available from the V8 to get them moving. If you gear down enough to make up the difference on the bottom end, then you lose out on the top end. It all depends upon how much power you are making. If you are pushing 1000+ hp, like the psychotics from Puerto Rico and Australia, none of that applies of course.

The lightweight VW chassis will help a lot, but I would hate to see you disappointed with your results if it doesn't meet your goals. If you are planning to be competitive you might want to talk to the guys at Bola De Humo Racing in Kansas City. They have a seriously fast first gen that they campaign and the actual real world experience in what it takes to put a rotary into the low 7s.
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Old 12-12-2015, 04:05 PM   #5
RICE RACING
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Ebola Da Homo has ZERO experience in making a road car fast, REAL ROAD CAR@!
Any homo can slap on a microwreck and methanol or race fuel and blow more smoke than a cheech and chong movie shit box!@ there are hundreds of ass clowns who can do this, it takes ZERO brains or any skill to do it, just go to any drag track and see the morons (plenty to choose from).

Or do you want an engine that you can drive anywhere and still lay the smack down on the dunce cap logo microwreck brigade????

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