Brake rotor choices... which one?

[My5ABaby]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

So you're telling me that brake fade or "gassing," as that guy calls it,is no longer a factor in modern (60s+) cars? I don't believe that for one second.

Everything I've been reading the past couple of days (trying to reach a decision on what to buy) agrees with that guy saying gassing really isn't a problem anymore.

[RETed]

Originally Posted by phoenix7

So you're telling me that brake fade or "gassing," as that guy calls it,is no longer a factor in modern (60s+) cars? I don't believe that for one second.

You're allowed to believe whatever you want to believe.

What is indeniable is the fact that drilling removes metal.
Removing metal lowers heat capacity.
So you have the same amount of heat going into less metal.
This just concentrates the heat more.
This is how heat risers and cracking develops easier.

If you want to pay for cross-drilled brake rotors, go right ahead.
It's your money.


-Ted

[My5ABaby]

I think I'm just going to go with blanks.

[My5ABaby]

I went with the Beck Arnley's. I hope they work out because they only have a 90 day warranty, compared to the 2 year on the Duralasts.

[88turboii]

i got the slotted rotors from rx7store.. i cant tell much difference from stock, but im still breaking them in, so no really hard braking yet

[My5ABaby]

There's a need to break in slotted rotors?

[RETed]

You need to break in any new brake rotors and / or brake pads.


-Ted

[Phoenix7]

just seat them though, right? Get up to speed (25mph) and brake fairly hard to get them seated. Or is there another procedure that's more appropriate?

[My5ABaby]

Originally Posted by RETed

You need to break in any new brake rotors and / or brake pads.


-Ted

I've heard of breaking in the pads (After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph), but I hadn't heard of one for rotors. Or is it the same thing?

In my case, I'll be putting on a new set of Hawk HPS' and new calipers along with the new rotors.

Edit: I found this: http://shielsmasonry.com/Beddingpadsandrotors.pdf . It would seem that I could break in the rotors and pads at the same doing what the I put in parentheses above (After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph)

[RETed]

My break-in procedure...

Moderate stops from freeway speed - i.e. ~60mph x3
Heavy stops from higher speeds - i.e. ~100mph x3
Let the brakes cool down thoroughly after doing this.
Of course, all the usual disclaimers apply...


-Ted

[My5ABaby]

Originally Posted by RETed

My break-in procedure...

Moderate stops from freeway speed - i.e. ~60mph x3
Heavy stops from higher speeds - i.e. ~100mph x3
Let the brakes cool down thoroughly after doing this.
Of course, all the usual disclaimers apply...


-Ted

Is this for new pads and rotors?

[RETed]

I've read somewhere that you should not be doing with new pads + rotors.
Either use used pads on new rotors or vice versa - new pads on used rotors.
I try not to use new + new.

I think my above break-in is from Hawk?
Or was it Wilwood... :P
Excuse the poor memory...


-Ted

[My5ABaby]

Originally Posted by RETed

I've read somewhere that you should not be doing with new pads + rotors.
Either use used pads on new rotors or vice versa - new pads on used rotors.
I try not to use new + new.

I think my above break-in is from Hawk?
Or was it Wilwood... :P
Excuse the poor memory...


-Ted

Don't use new and new? Hmmmm. I've always heard it's best to put both new on at once, or at least resurface the rotors when you put on new pads.

Anyone else have input on this?

[RETed]

Hawk break-in procedure for "racing" applications:
http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/faqs.php#Q5

Wilwood "bedding" procedure:
http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html


-Ted