Side seal springs & Oil Control ring springs questions

***TitaniumTT*** · 08-25-2015, 08:09 AM

Agree with Chris... I use all REW springs in my builds, including the Competition oil control springs.
You absolutely want to use the REW corner seal springs.
What are you using for Apex Seals?

Pete_89T2 · 08-25-2015, 10:53 AM

Already knew the FD corner seal springs were better, so I didn't bother asking about those

Most likely I'll use Mazda OEM apex & side seals, as you know exactly what you're getting.

RETed · 08-25-2015, 12:11 PM

I don't know the numbers off-hand, but I don't have measuring equipment that can measure such a difference...

Just playing around with the oil control springs, it didn't feel any different to me...
...but I'm not a precision piece of measuring equipment.

Whatever the case, I burned through a set of the comp springs just as easily when I had an oil pressure problem.
Personally, I don't think it makes that much of a difference for most people unless we're talking about power figures that start to get close to 400hp...

I can't offer any experience with the side seal springs...
With that said, I have had zero problems running the stock, FC side seal springs.

In fact, I reuse most of those pieces unless it's obvious that they are worn past spec...
For oil control rings, if just the copper plating is worn off, I'd still reuse them; if there are signs the base spring steel has been worn, I throw those away.

Now, this brings up an interesting discussion...
All those parts increase pressure of the seals on the side housings.
For most of us, we're reusing good, used side housings...
This does not apply to brand new side housings, nor for those who can afford to re-coat (i.e. gas nitride, similar, or better) the side housings.
Since most of the original gas nitride surface treatment has been worn away, I've been seeing accelerated wear on them.
Rebuilds for under 400hp, I tend to stick with the stock stuff - with the exception of the FD corner seal springs (but even those tend to accelerate wear on the side housings too).
If you're looking for north of 400, there's a lot more money involved, and that usually gives you a lot more options.

Personally, for 300hp, I'd just reuse your original seals, if they are in good shape.
If you're paranoid, you're welcome to buy new (upgrade, i.e. FD) springs and / or the comp springs.

-Ted

Pete_89T2 · 08-27-2015, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RETed

Personally, for 300hp, I'd just reuse your original seals, if they are in good shape.
If you're paranoid, you're welcome to buy new (upgrade, i.e. FD) springs and / or the comp springs.

-Ted

Reuse of the original side seals isn't an option in this case. Purchased Ransom's nearly new short block, but it was already dissembled & cleaned up pretty good when I got it. Didn't come with any of the hard seals on the rotors except the oil control rings, which I knew going in. But the condition of the housings, rotors & irons are about as close to brand new as you can get, and it has about as big of a street port as you can get

chibikougan · 08-27-2015, 07:47 PM

Yeah I thought about sending you everything but in my haste I didn't note where anything went... Looking back I wish I would have never cracked it.

Barry Bordes · 08-28-2015, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chibikougan

Yeah I thought about sending you everything but in my haste I didn't note where anything went... Looking back I wish I would have never cracked it.

Chick,
Which seals were you thinking about using?
Why did you sell it in such haste?

Pete,
You can't beat the latest OEM applicable parts. So 3rd gen springs and seals.
You could add the longer side seals and cut the corner seals for better sealing.
See my Zero Clearance side seal thread.
Barry

chibikougan · 08-28-2015, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barry Bordes

Chick,
Which seals were you thinking about using?
Why did you sell it in such haste?

Used OEM mazda 2 piece and I didn't sell it in any haste I just tore it down with no intention of keeping or re using.

I was selling for a while. I just never tore it down until I sold it to make sure it was all still Brand New condition.

08-25-2015, 08:09 AM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Agree with Chris... I use all REW springs in my builds, including the Competition oil control springs. You absolutely want to use the REW corner seal springs. What are you using for Apex Seals? __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

08-25-2015, 10:53 AM	#2
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	Already knew the FD corner seal springs were better, so I didn't bother asking about those Most likely I'll use Mazda OEM apex & side seals, as you know exactly what you're getting.