two cycle oil - Page 2

jd collector · 03-28-2014, 07:00 PM

Okay, At a tractor show this will only be running for about a half hour at a time around 2 to 3000 rpms at a fast walking speed. This is the way it was hooked up when I purchased it. Should I change anything? I do have some build pictures Ill post when I have time. At 73 I still work about 60 hrs a week.

GySgtFrank · 03-28-2014, 10:50 PM

A large oil cooler of some sort in that line would be a good idea, as you currently only have part of the required cooling system. Especially as you're going to be running this at low speeds where air flow through that small radiator is going to be less than ideal. At 2000 -3000 rpm you won't even be into the power band for a rotary. Of course considering what you've shoehorned it into, the lower power output down low might be a good thing. If you ever push it above 3000, where the rotary really takes off, that thing is going to be terrifying instead of just scary/borderline insane.

edit: if you need it I have a stock (radiator style) cooler from the 12A that was in my 79. There were two types used in the RXs. A radiator style in the early (79-80) models and the beehive style under the oil filter on the 81-85 models. 86 and up went back to the radiator style up front as they proved to be superior to the beehive style cooler.

Pete_89T2 · 03-29-2014, 06:32 AM

Given the way this tractor will be run - short run times, low speeds & RPMs, I think if you install one of the "beehive" oil coolers that was mentioned, you'll have more than adequate oil cooling to keep this motor healthy. From the photos, it appears you'll have plenty of space to pull off the installation without any interference issues.

Edit: Another approach to consider, if this motor really won't run for longer than a half hour or so at a pop is to leave it the way it is, but add in an oil temp gauge to closely monitor temps, and shut it down if it approaches the danger zone.

Garfinkles Motor Works · 03-30-2014, 09:35 PM

Why take a chance put in an oil cooler and be safe .The engine will thank you .You do not need it to blow at a show .

Barry Bordes · 07-09-2014, 11:12 AM

JD,
Do you have a fan in front of the radiator?
I would use a IR temp gun and check oil and water temps to establish max run-time.
Use 200 degree water and 250 degree oil max.
Barry

03-28-2014, 10:50 PM	#17
GySgtFrank Professional Stick Poker Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Stafford, Ks. Posts: 1,007 Rep Power: 16	A large oil cooler of some sort in that line would be a good idea, as you currently only have part of the required cooling system. Especially as you're going to be running this at low speeds where air flow through that small radiator is going to be less than ideal. At 2000 -3000 rpm you won't even be into the power band for a rotary. Of course considering what you've shoehorned it into, the lower power output down low might be a good thing. If you ever push it above 3000, where the rotary really takes off, that thing is going to be terrifying instead of just scary/borderline insane. edit: if you need it I have a stock (radiator style) cooler from the 12A that was in my 79. There were two types used in the RXs. A radiator style in the early (79-80) models and the beehive style under the oil filter on the 81-85 models. 86 and up went back to the radiator style up front as they proved to be superior to the beehive style cooler. __________________ 1988 N/A SE 2+2, dead stock and staying that way. 1979 SA22C stock? Not so much. http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ad.php?t=15585 Last edited by GySgtFrank; 03-28-2014 at 11:03 PM.

03-29-2014, 06:32 AM	#18
Pete_89T2 Lifetime Rotorhead Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Elkton, MD Posts: 874 Rep Power: 16	Given the way this tractor will be run - short run times, low speeds & RPMs, I think if you install one of the "beehive" oil coolers that was mentioned, you'll have more than adequate oil cooling to keep this motor healthy. From the photos, it appears you'll have plenty of space to pull off the installation without any interference issues. Edit: Another approach to consider, if this motor really won't run for longer than a half hour or so at a pop is to leave it the way it is, but add in an oil temp gauge to closely monitor temps, and shut it down if it approaches the danger zone. Last edited by Pete_89T2; 03-29-2014 at 06:40 AM.

03-28-2014, 07:00 PM	#16
jd collector The Newbie Join Date: Mar 2014 Posts: 5 Rep Power: 0	Okay, At a tractor show this will only be running for about a half hour at a time around 2 to 3000 rpms at a fast walking speed. This is the way it was hooked up when I purchased it. Should I change anything? I do have some build pictures Ill post when I have time. At 73 I still work about 60 hrs a week.

03-30-2014, 09:35 PM	#19
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 535 Rep Power: 18	Why take a chance put in an oil cooler and be safe .The engine will thank you .You do not need it to blow at a show .

07-09-2014, 11:12 AM	#20
Barry Bordes Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Slidell, LA Posts: 191 Rep Power: 18	JD, Do you have a fan in front of the radiator? I would use a IR temp gun and check oil and water temps to establish max run-time. Use 200 degree water and 250 degree oil max. Barry